BeBop138

No--the carbs are from the Ford trucks--57-58--- they have the spark arresters on them---I thought of the same thing for heat ---coil the risers with some 1/4 copper and wrap them in header wrap---still it should work without all this---any ideas or do you feel the cold is the culprit.........Lee

I have dual carbs on my 265 Chrysler--the carbs are the Ford Holley glass bowl type--I have them working and set fairly well. The intake was made out of an original piece. The runners are set up high app. five inches.The heat riser has been removed to put in the plate for the split. It starts but you have to feather the gas to keep it running till it warms up some. The problem is it bogs from idle till the rpm`s pick up. After the car warms up well it still does it. The runners are cold to the touch and the carb bases are cooler yet. I don`t think the fuel is atomizing well because of the cold runners. I see were guys have the Fenton headers and are running dual carbs and don`t seem to have any problems. I thought of some type of water heat at the bases, but I feel there must be a better way---any thoughts on how to fix......Lee

Don, the pics helped, I got mine to work. Just worked to much that day and had a senior moment, just didn`t focus.........Thanks Lee:)

The one I have the the adjusting arms are to long. I have to find a unit that will work or build my own---was hoping for something out there designed for these flatties.........Thanks

As we all know the bolt pattern is different for mounting the engine stand fixture on the engine, are there any vendors out there that makes them or do you have to make your own?

Sorry to jump in with a question---Terrill has pistons for my 265 but they are 80 over, seems a bit to much, Badger is where he gets his--what are your guys thoughts on going that big?? Egge has some with the pins with 60 over and Andy B. has them in most bore sizes---which vendor would you buy them from---Thanks...Lee

I will be changing the camshaft in my 265 and would like thoughts on changing valve springs. Will be using a 410 lift with a 270 duration cam--should I use stiffer springs? I will be doing this with the engine in the car--any tips on tear down and valve adjustments------Thanks

Steve, thanks for the info......Lee

I have the correct bolts for the cover, but I did notice that one bolt under the washer had a small copper washer---is this supposed to be on all of them or was this just a fluke........Thanks.....Lee

You can use your 6V starter with no problem.....

Really nice pics---thanks

Welcome, good people, lots of knowledge to share----nice rides.

Thanks Don, maybe the next time all the guys up here in MN could meet, I know Wayne P. would come up from Owattona----it would be nice to do it when we could meet with our old cars. Take care and a safe trip home.

Don, where are you staying---how long are you in town? I live in Bloomington, would like to meet you before you leave.........welcome to cold country......Lee

The 265 was offered in 52-53-54 on the Windsor`s for Chrysler---I have one in my 52 Windsor and a spare from a 54 Windsor that I am rebuilding for the 52 with some mild hot rod parts.........

I was on the WPC site and I don`t think they apreciated my questions on modifications. They said you guys were more forgiving. Lots of good info here. The Inliners site has helped also. It`s nice to talk about the things you have done without being put down. Better to modify than go to the crusher. Plus the OT banter is great........Thanks guys...........Lee ( 52 Windsor )

It`s been so long since I talked to the guy I am not sure which one?? I always talked on the phone---he`s got a deep voice like Tex Ritter and he always says and have a little fun today on his voice mail---Deception Pass sounds like the right one-----good luck

Great info 46---very detailed.....Thanks

Len Dawson----all NOS---you must have a part number!!

If both were in good shape you still would pay a little more for the 9". The problem I have had with the 8" is getting ones with 3:25 or deeper, the 9" seem to be more plentiful in the deeper gear sets. If you wait you can usually pick up what you want for the good price. Like I mentioned, the 8" gears are usually bad. Go 9" and the gears seem ok---expect to pay a little more for this. If you can get 8" for $50 bucks it shows there are bargins in 9" out there if you have a little patience

The 8" are usually narrow enough for most applications. The 9" from the mid 70`s Bronco`s work well also. I have the Bronco in my 52 Windsor and it is 1 1/2" inches narrower each side than stock. The 8" gears usually don`t fair as well for rust and pits as the 9" units do. I think the steel is better on these. My experiance is that the half that is not sitting in the grease is always bad. The 9" seems to be more forgiving. I would go for the 9", better unit and gear choices and they should be found in the lenght you need, and the price should be about the same.....Good Luck

Hugh, if you know which shock you are going to use and you cut the travel in half before welding---do you need to take out the springs?

At 60 mph with 3:50 gears--225/75R/15`s--S-10 5 speed--4th--2493 OD--1995. I think the 57 Dodge with the V-8`s had a 3:36----Good Luck:D

A very dear friend of mine was a DJ, his name was Del Roberts. They called him Ugly Del Roberts on the radio. His classic line was his girlfriend Kitty Litter was the best he could do with the car he had.............

I have posted before that Tom`s Hei does not work as well as it could. To much slop on the shaft, the mechanical advance shifts 10 degrees. It could work better. A buddy of mine has made one from a inline Chev six and I feel it out performs Tom`s unit. Not saying his won`t work, I feel it should do better. Check out my previous post on this for more info..........Good Luck