46busboys

OK, to pinpoint if this is electrical or not and help pinpoint where it it coming from. Get yourself a timing light. hook it up. they usually will work on 6 volts. if not hook up to a spare 12 v battery. clamp on to each plug wire while pointing the light right into your face. do this to each plug wire, you should find the miss pretty quickly if it is electrical. the light will quit flashing in time to the miss. If it is not electrical ... pull each plug wire one at a time, see if the miss stops, this will pinpoint which cylinder it comes from. If not electrical I think I would consider a small valve leak. What do you mean by everything is new... points, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil.... then you talk about wires, rusty plugs and so on.... It is all new or it isn't. Do what I say above and you will find your problem.

Hmmm, I really don't see any noticible wobble or anything wierd on the HB, actually I am not even sure it is a HB and not solid.

Desoto- could you describe the symtoms you had and how you decided that was what caused it. looks like 200 bucks plus to get one rebuilt.

46 business coupe, 231 engine, I had assumed was factory installed, but just maybe a factory replacement as it has the correct engine number stamped on it. ( matches the one stamped on the rear frame ) At any rate I rebuilt the engine about 10 years ago, reground the crank, new pistons in stock bore, bearings and so on. the motor was installed and then the project stalled while other projects got in the way. Recently the project got road worthy, but I am trying to chase down some vibration issues. Before I tackle the driveline and such I believe the engine may have vibration issues. With the car at a stop the engine idles very smooth, rev to maybe 2000 rpm and the engine developes a bit of a vibration, 3000 rpm and the engine smooths out. Clutch in or clutch out-- same deal. Some would live with it but I don't like it. I believe this is the cause of the excessive vibration at 50 mph while driving the car. Any thoughts, will I need to pull the engine and have it all balanced?

Powerhouse, Sent you a PM

powerhouse, I might do that, I,ll yank mine again in the morning and check it again. I'll get back to you!!

Scruffy, thanks for all the input. Great choices, I'll check them out. I did polarize and all that. I will tear it down again this weekend for another check out, and meanwhile try to locate another one. I have a feeling the getting hot issue may have been a field coil short. ???

Thanks Don, might have to go that route, I was hoping to get something closer to the Tacoma Washington, Olympia area. Guess you can't get one off the shelf anymore. I still can't figure why it was fine before I replaced the bearings.

:mad:OK so where do you all go to get a 6v generator??? I pulled out my p-15 generator, it was getting hot and the bearings were making noise. Replaced the bearing and bushing, now I don't get anything on the output. It does motor, slowley. Does anybody still carry rebuilts??? I don't have a growler but it seems like it should work but don't

I am not aware that the truck starter is different than the car starter. so I am sorry to confuse the matter-----But no one on this thread said to jump 12 volts through the 6 volt battery. I suggested jumping to the ground cable attached to the battery, no big deal if it is attached or not. I run dual voltage on my P-15, stock 6 volt system and another 12 v negative ground in the trunk to power the electric seat and additional power to the starter when or if needed. usually never use it though, but is nice to be able to push that button in an emergency.

back in the early 80's I was a mechanic for a fleet of about 30 one ton ford box vans, all ran on propane. They ran a very heavy load on their daily travels. Brakes were a big problem but the biggest engine issues was valve recession. The Fords 351W and 460 engines didn't have hardened seats so when they needed it the heads were rebuilt with hard seats and put back on. The engines ran very very clean inside so the pistons and bearings received little wear. Because the engines would last a long time, timing chains needed changed out at 100,000 miles or so. The trucks all ran stock compression and did not run dual fuel. With one exception. I put together a 429 with 12 to 1 compression and ran it dual fuel. This went into a 4x4 F250. The truck ran very hard, with not much difference between gas or propane. All in all I think in a early mopar engine I would try to get the compression up and you should have good power, I think a stocker will be pretty slugish. A 5 gallon tank is not big enough or even legal. Needs to be DOT approved, safe and vented to the outside.

a very easy way to jumpstart with 12 volts and not have to disconnect any wires. Take your jumper cables and connect one lead to a good ground on the car. The battery or battery cable itself would be fine. Connect the other 12v lead to the terminal on the starter. It does not matter positive or negative to the starter. then connect the other leads to the good battery. When you make the last connection, the starter will spin, have the key on and do NOT touch the starter button on your dash. instant start.

yep, modern cars have many grounds. I grounded the body to the frame and the engine to the frame and body. With all new wiring ( correct size or better ) and new sockets ( extra grounding wire to body at each socket ) my lighting is nearly modern bright. I have no problems with them at all. P-15:):)

I used the cut to fit from Bernbaums, no issues...used weatherstrip cement to glue the joint. I would buy it again

Anyone?? maybe a photo of the rear upper corner of the fender