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J.P.G.

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Everything posted by J.P.G.

  1. J.P.G.
    Hello all, I drive a 1946 Plymouth Deluxe, and absolutely love it. But admittedly, I've always pined for the Chrysler New Yorker of the same year. I intend to own one in addition eventually, so I read up on any information I can get about them. Having procured an original owners manual, I noticed something unexpected. The book calls for SAE 20 oil to be used in the crankcase on the eight cylinder models at normal temperature. My Plymouth calls for SAE 30. So, why the difference? They're pretty comparable engines, or so I understand. Further, do any of you Chrysler owners use SAE 20? Many thanks in advance, and all the best, J.P.G.
  2. J.P.G.
    Hello, Swift was logically spot on, except in his initial assumption - that his readers shared the value that eating children was quite all right. Of course, not literally, it was satire, after all. But I reckon you are also making an unfounded assumption in your proposal: that old mopars need to be "modernized" to be suitable as daily drivers. I have daily driven a bone stock 1946 Plymouth Deluxe Club Coupe since I was 16 (for it was my first car). It's been ten years of happy and reliable motoring. I've had it from Pittsburgh to Cape Cod and tons of places in-between. Worthy of mention is this was an unrestored example, and only a few occasions over the years required mechanical attention. What I'm getting at is you don't need to ruin a fine piece of golden age American motoring with modern nonsense. These were well-designed cars. Buy a well-restored example and it will serve you better than most used modern cars, and at the same if not lower price! Regardless of outcome, I wish you all the best in joining the Mopar club - they truly are splendid cars that attract fine folks! Sincerely, J.P.G.
  3. J.P.G.
    Hello Again, It occurs to me that what little experience I've had over the past seven years driving a stock P-15 regularly might be of interest or use to you. Regarding Brakes: I've found the stock juice brakes to be completely satisfactory, and have never had any catastrophic failure. However, it is extremely important to keep the emergency brake properly adjusted. On one occasion shortly after buying the car when a rear cylinder sprung a leak, and the petal didn't respond normally in traffic, the hand brake saved my front end from a decent dent. Regarding Rust Prevention: If you're a Yankee like me, you've got to contend with road salt in the winter. But I have recreated a classic protection method as follows - 1. Buy a dozen tubes of Marine grease and empty them into a metal gallon paint can. 2. Buy three or so spray cans of Fluid Film. 3. Borrow a lift someplace and proceed to slather the grease by hand onto every surface that you want to protect from the elements. Be certain to leave a good cakey layer so that no air contacts any metal. 4. For the places you can't fit your hand, like the inside of the frame rails, joins in the floor pans, the bottom of the space between the radiator and grille, and especially the space inside the rocker pannels, use the Fluid Film to get at them. I do this every autumn, in addition to regularly spraying off the car, and have observed no new rust anywhere! The drawback is you'll get covered in grease every time you adjust anything. Regarding Touring: I've had my Plymouth from Pittsburgh to New York City, and innumerable places in-between. Here are some observations of mine: - Buy your tires in sets of five, and rotate them. Less anxiety this way. Further, keep the front wheels in proper allignment - the slightest error here takes thousands of miles off bias ply tires. - Should the choke stop get stuck out in cold weather, preventing you from starting the car, simply remove the air cleaner and push the choke valve back open by hand. - Keep a small window squeegee beneath the seat. On some rainy summer days, the heater defogger just can't keep up. - Should you desire to smoke, simply open the vent window just a little. It will suck all the smoke straight out of the car, leaving no tobacco smell on your seats - Keep a few quarts of spare motor oil in the trunk. Offentimes the filling station you're closest to doesn't carry SAE 30 non detergent. - You might consider keeping a small modern hydraulic Jack in the trunk. I understand the original bumper jacks are considered unsafe. -Replace the cork float on the gas tank sender with a plastic one. Mine was basically a paper weight from all the gas it soaked up. - Follow the manual's lubrication schedule EXACTLY. This is likely the most critical part of ensuring longevity and reliability of your car. Regarding Breakdowns: Eh, hate to admit it, but who hasn't had a few, after all. - the rear brake cylinder went out soon after I bought it. The brakes still worked for a week or so while I ordered parts to fix it if I pumped them up, but certainly unadvisable to rely on that condition. I've never had a trouble since installing new everything. -About two years ago, I rebuilt the clutch just to do it. - About two years ago, the rear universal joint desintigrated, likely due to rip in the boot I'd observed. Went without a car for a few days till I got the rebuild kits. No trouble since. - A year ago, the starter and generator both kicked the bucket. Fortunately, a local old-timer made quick work of rebuilding then. In other words, it's highly comparable to any other car's maintenance, and a fantastic support structure exists here. Ah well, I ramble. Again, best of luck!
  4. J.P.G.
    Well done! It warms my heart to meet a kindered spirit! As a vote of confidence, I'd like to tell you that I did the very same thing at fifteen. I hated modern ponton styling and stiff suspensions and step-down bucket seats, et c.. So I finally convinced my folks to let me spend my savings on a 1946 Plymouth Deluxe coupe. A bit rough, but nothing a willing hobbyist mechanic couldn't figure out. It has been my daily driver since I got my liscence in 2011 with splendid success and happiness that a modern car could never bring. I never intend to replace the car, as I see no reason trying to improve upon perfection. It's all stock, too - I even run bias ply tires (they look fantastic). I've done all sorts of work on it over the years, that is, driving an antique car regularly requires care, but like anything else worthwhile in life, it pays off. No matter how horrible my day or night has been, I can always count on a little joy the next time I have to drive somewhere. By all means, buy yourself a P-15!
  5. J.P.G.
    I ordered the build microfilm from Chrysler shortly after buying the car, but I've forgotten where I put it, I'm afraid. I'll keep looking. I've read all of the resources section, but it doesn't have exactly what I'm looking for. Say it's November of 1946, and I'm finally at the dealership taking delivery of my new P15 Deluxe coupe. My question is: what little accessories would I be handed in addition to the car, owner's manual, two sets of keys, a jack, a tire iron, a spare tire, and the options ordered from the factory/dealership (extra windshield wiper/sun visor, heater, etc)?
  6. J.P.G.
    Haha, I knew so little about it when I started taking everything apart and started this topic, I agree with you looking back on it. The service manual didn't really get into how to disassemble everything or tell me what any of the parts were for. Reverse-engineering the while thing was an instructional experience, no doubt. But I can say confidently now that I have a damn good understanding of how to replace and adjust the clutch on a P15. Plus, I managed not to ruin or damage anything (including myself).
  7. J.P.G.
    Hello All, Success!! My father knew a fellow who had the pilot bushing tools, and the car is properly reassembled and running better than it ever has since I've had it! As it turns out, the source of the vibrations wasn't the clutch, it was the back universal joint - it was completely disintegrated. So I rebuilt it with Burnbaum's repair kit with the help of a local machine shop (who had a press for the pin) and it drives beautifully! Thanks again for all of your help everyone, as I've said before, this forum is indispensable in the maintenance of these cars! Now on to detailing the engine bay...
  8. J.P.G.
    Hello All, In my never-ending pursuit to make my 1946 Plymouth Deluxe Club Coupe as original as possible, I am looking for information on what came with the car new. Specifically, What did the 1946 owners manuals and service books look like? Was there a tool kit that came with the car? Any accessories (ice scrapers, extra parts, pamphlets, etc)? Was there a difference in what a Deluxe and Special Deluxe came with? Was there a difference between 46, 47, and 48? Thanks in advance, and happy motoring, J.P.G.
  9. J.P.G.
    I had never known of pilot bushings, thanks very much for putting me in the picture! Needless to say, you're all quite right, I'll see about it tomorrow. My father might have one of the pullers needed for this, he's got a ton of strange and obscure tools like that. But if he doesn't, I'll certainly take you up on your offer, Rich! Thanks again everyone, I've had this car for a few years now, but never had to fix anything more serious than cosmetic touch-ups and a rusty floor. I'm pretty inexperienced when it comes to the big repair jobs, but I'll pick it up, I say!
  10. J.P.G.
    Agh, you're quite right, I've just looked it up. My newness to all of this is no doubt very evident, haha. Is it very likely that it's worn-out or about to fail? I'd rather just stick with the clutch project for the moment.
  11. J.P.G.
    I did, so sorry for not responding sooner. Many thanks, but the place I've sent the clutch assembly and disk also rebuilt my throwout bearing and installed a new pilot bushing. I'm trying to put it all back together now, and can't get the flywheel to clear the bolts and bell housing. I'd hate to have to loosen all of the bell housing blots again, is there another way?
  12. J.P.G.
    Sweet - thanks again! I've got it all apart and cleaned up now, and the flywheel has been ground smooth. As soon as the clutch parts return in the mail, I'll have the dear old Plymouth out and about again!
  13. J.P.G.
    I've already removed the floor, but I'm so close to getting it out, I'd hate to have to reassemble everything without cleaning it. There's 70 years of grease and dirt caked on everything. Where are these dowels? Maybe if I spray some pblaster on them, it'll free up.
  14. J.P.G.
    Say, I've another question. I'd like to remove the bell housing anyway to clean it and clear the vents. I've removed what I believe is every bolt, but it's stuck fast. How do I remove it?
  15. J.P.G.
    And it's great to hear there's an expert near by, I'm pretty new to all of this. I've had the car for five years now, but it's never needed any major matinence til now.
  16. J.P.G.
    Good stuff! I'm in Sewickley, a small town 15 miles north of Pittsburgh. Oil City isn't far at all, maybe an hour's drive. I've always loved the stock configuration of my car, but a duel intake sounds pretty tempting, I must say. Do they notably improve performance?
  17. J.P.G.
    Hello Again, Thanks very much for all of your advice! It's exactly what I needed, particularly the diagram. I'm pleased to say that I've successfully removed the clutch and flywheel, and will ship the former off to be rebuilt and take the latter to be ground smooth tomorrow. This forum is a godsend, I don't think any other vintage of antique car has a stronger support system. Now, all I have to do it put it all back together (I reckon I'll be back with another question shortly, ha!). Thanks Again!
  18. J.P.G.
    Hello Again, To clarify, this car is totally original in its components and configuration, and has a standard three speed transmission without overdrive or Fluid Drive. Thanks Again, J.P.G.
  19. J.P.G.
    Hello All, I am in need of some advice. I'm currently attempting to replace the clutch in my 1946 Plymouth Deluxe Club Coupe. I have disconnected the drive shaft and transmission, but can't figure out the best way to access the clutch and flywheel. My shop manual doesn't get into very much detail here at all, and I'm stumped. The bell housing seems to bolt on top of a frame crossmember. So, what is the best next step in removing this? Is there an easiest way to remove the clutch linkages from the bell housing? (That is, should I just disconnect them from the clutch petal, or from the bell housing?) Does the clutch plate put pressure on the bell housing (that is, will it spring off when I take out the bolts)? Should I remove the flywheel cover? Is the engine supported directly by this bell housing (since it's bolted to the frame)? If so, how should I support the engine while making this repair? Many Thanks in Advance, and Best, J.P.G.
  20. J.P.G.
    I can't get the pictures to upload, I'll keep trying. It is possible that the smaller-keyed ignition was shared by Dodge trucks of the era, according to one online parts supplier. My car was built in mid November, 1946, if that helps anyone also.
  21. J.P.G.
    Hello All, Many thanks again for all of your help on getting my trunk unlocked in time for last weekend. I found a locksmith to pick it open for me. But now, I have another question: When I lost the keys to the ignition and trunk, I had no spare set. So, unable to find a way to have a new key made for the original lock, I bought a new ignition switch and key set and installed it. It works, but to my surprise, the switch and lock cylinder that came, supposedly the correct type for my 1946 Plymouth, did not match the one that was in the car. The original was made by Alemite, and the key was a tiny Star type HFD7, and no provision I could find to remove the lock cylinder. The new one came with a much larger key, and a totally different-looking cylinder. It also has a pin on the top of the switch to remove the cylinder with. This solved a different question I'd had for a while, I came across an original Plymouth P15 blank with the crest pressed on the key. It was too big to fit the old lock, but glides right into the new ignition. A correct fit. So, which is it? I have no reason to believe the old lock is not original to the car, but every other resource points to the new lock as being the correct type. The only explanation I can think of is that it is a left-over 1942 part that was installed only on the early 1946 models. Is the lock original, or not? If so, why is it different? Thanks very much in advance, and best regards.
  22. J.P.G.
    Thanks for the helpful responses, I really appreciate them. So, I've a follow-up question: Once the lock is in the open position, how do I remove the cylinder? I'm assuming there's a way to do this just like with the ignition cylinder? Thanks again
  23. J.P.G.
    Hello All, I'm in dire need of some help, I've lost the only key I had for the original trunk lock on my 1946 P15 coupe, and it's locked. I need it open so I can get to the tool box and spare tire before a tour planned for this weekend. I've already had a locksmith look at it to try and impression the lock, and he says its too worn to make a key from it. I'm not sure what to do, does anyone have a similar experience and solution? Is there a way to open this thing from inside? That is, if I removed the back seat and got at it from inside the car, could I open it? I' willing to try anything short of drilling out the lock. Thanks very much in advance, and best wishes.
  24. J.P.G.
    Hello, Would any of you happen to know what brand and type of tires came on 1946 p-15 Plymouth Deluxe Club Coupes? I am told Plymouth switched to Goodyear supercusions sometime in '47, but I can't find anything about the original make of tires. (I ask because I think the old spare in my car's trunk might be one of the original tires). Thanks!
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