Suess

We know have five members listed.

Got her balanced out. I had moved the front perches down so that she would be lower. Looked cool rode like crap and was uneven. Put everything back to normal and Bamn she is taller but is maybe a 1/4 out. And drives like a dream even though i don't have front shocks on yet. So to Mr. Adams I must say I agree with you on lower in moderation. The front is slightly raked but I have no worries about speed bumps now. Cool or practical always searching for that perfect combination. And I feel as though I hit her on the head. Again thanks to all for the comments.

Well from scratch should be great. So all information is voluntary Please send Name Address Any phone numbers Email address Available resource / tools,shop,bed etc. Please send to Beyerpm@co.laplata.co.us

After reading the "in the event of an emergency thread" the idea of having a list of members. So that other members have a lifeline as they are traveling is a good call. I would gladly donate my time to build this list and keep it updated. Let me know. Suess

Thanks for the info. I have been measuring from the pavement to the arch on the fender well. I did double check to make sure the garage is flat. It's not pool table flat but it is flat. I place a level on the front and rear metal peice behind the bumper it is a little over a quarter bubble. Crawled underneath and looked at the rear springs the drivers side is flatter than the passenger side. The air shock is a idea but I always thought they rode stiff. That is just a assumption I have never owned a set so I may be talking out of my butt. I want this to be my new patrol car so I plan on driving it everyday. I don't want to see a pot hole and do the ooooo this is going to hurt face.

Well. I got everything installed and noticed that the drivers side is sitting exactly 1'' lower. I did put new coils on the front but original springs on the rear. Is this normal for 47 plymouths? I am not sure what the right way is to fix this. Anyone have ideas?

Look at the pedals you should see a,bushing or rod that runs through them, they will have a c-clip or Jesus pin. Remove the pin and knock out the rod. Be sure to check the bushing for wear. This will make it easier to remove the mc

Well it has been awhile so I thought an update is in order. The car went to the muffler shop. They did a great job but I will be wrapping the exhaust. I had the transmission mount built they also,did a great job. Had the drive shaft cut and balanced for $30. And finished the powder coating of the inner fenders. Hole it was out getting the work done I fixed up the shop and installed a beer tap next to the tool box. Was a great idea!!! When the car got back after a month. I went hard on her. Engine breaking fixing leaks and justl all those nickel a dime things that drive you nuts. All in all it has been a great three days of work. The bank is now completely tapped and will have to wait on upholstry. But at least she runs again. I tried to do an electric fan and it sucked.mgoing back to a mechanical fan. I will send more pics tomarrow. Hope everyone is doing well. Suess

Numerous forum people have done this swap. It is not that big of a deal as long as you are comfortable welding measuring and going to the junkyard for donor parts. Rusty hope makes a kit for the R/P mount, much cheaper than fatman. Standard Chevy power steering pump, and a 84 on up Chevy center steer rack and pinion. Build custom lines and you are up and running.

It's in!!!!!!! After a long battle, lots of cussing and some tears. I built my first set of motor mounts centered the engine, burned the hell out of myself (again). I will trailer it in tomorrow get a transmission mount done and get the exhaust plumbed in. Things I learned. Just because you call it a welding blanket. Does not make it a welding blanket

You will need 2 L fuzzier for the wing windows, 8 feet of channel to go up and over the window, 8 feet of window sweeps to go on the inside and outside of the glass at the bottom of the window and two rubbers to go around the wing glass. Everything set me back about $200 from Andy Bernbaums.

Tomarrow is round two for the engine install. Been very busy at work so I have had no time to fiddle around with the car at all. Thanks to don, falcon, mrstory and everyone else that gave me ideas. My battle plan is now that I do not have a steering gear box to contend with I am going to center the engine as much as possible. Also after looking closely at the tran mount I can see that my dad used a long peice of T iron and flipped a trailer hitch upside down for the mount. This will be replaced by a removable tube brace. If everything goes as planned she will be taken in next weekend for exhaust.

Thanks for thi pics. I do not want to hack into my firewall I spent so much time making it flat. I will slide the mounts back 2.5. And worse case scenario I will do what don coatney did and cut my cross. Seems like a lot of work for a serpentine kit but damnit I like it.

Falcon hope you had a great vacation. I need your help I tried to install my engine today but the motor mounts that are their put the engine way to far forward my serpententine pullys are almost in the middle of the cross member. I can go almost 3 inches back but I need to build new mounts. Can you please tell me what you used and give me a couple of pics. Thank you sir.

Update: put the engine in and it is a no go. It hits the rack and pinion and will require me to hack the front crossmember. After checking everything I will need to move the engine back 2.5 inches. The homemade motor mounts will be gutted. I will get some plate and build new mounts and redo the transmission mount. Hind sight being 20/20 I should've asked to borrow someone's mock up engine. If someone makes a good motor mount would you let me know please.

Went out and grabbed some pictures of mine. Let me know if it helps

Well it Is Friday and I have everything layed out for reassembly. I am happy with the paint. I have started bolting certain things on. Oil pan, timing cover, intake, fuel pump. I was hoping to take care of all the little things before I put it in. I only have a couple of concerns. 1. The oil pan hitting the rack and pinion, it shouldn't but man that would suck. 2. The new serpentine conversion kit hitting the front crossmember. Again it shouldnt but i think she will be tight. I will update tomarrow as I go along. Mrwrstory made think back to the day I got her home. It was supposed to be a simple tune up and carb rebuild. The next thing I know it was gutted. Wish dad was here with me. Oh well he will have to come and visit the grand kids at some point.

The engine is home!!!!!!! Got the phone call today. Engine is ready, my loving wife jumped in the truck and met me at the machinists house. Was given explicit directions on sharpening the cam and so on and so forth. So a list of what I had done. Bigger heads 2.05 int/ 1.6 exh. Cast iron Bored .040 over new pistons, bearings,rings,rockers,and springs. He also grooved the lifter journals for more oil. The cam is where I did go a little sideways. Again some like them some hate them but I did buy a thumper cam. Got the engine home unwrapped it tested out some of my shiny pieces ( I am a firm believer in that chrome will indeed get you home and that women cannot resist a shiny engine, they are like raccoons) Hosed the block,down with paint prep and started taping everything off. Will start putting down the color tomarrow and will be stabbing her back in this Saturday. I also talked with the upholstery guy and he will be glad to do the work. I have decided on tuck and roll all the way around. I know it is not a mopar so please rejoice in the fact that I got the engine back and will be able to make a couple runs this year. And as everyone knows Chevrolet and mopar share the same R.

Finally making some progress. Engine should be finished this week. It is a chevy 350 some Guys live them some guys hate them. At least it isn't a Toyota 22r going in. Anyway I smoothed the transmission cast lines down and started laying some paint. This will hopefully become my work vehicle so it is not a show car but I have said it before and I will say it again. I have never owned a vehicle where the engine/trans and engine bay all color matched. Always wanted to try it and now is my chance. I wiped the trans down with prepall then put down three coats of high temp ceramic red fromeastwood. Then I coated her with the same color as the body. It's a 90s ford metallic red/ maroon rose???? No clue what it is but it shore is purty... To begin I bought two box fans and plastic I layed the plastic on the ground and taped more plastic into the garage side entry door. I opened up the window across from the shop and kind of got a site draft going. I found my dads turbine sprayer and hooked it up. I do not have any painting experience. Dead serious about this. But I will give anything a shot just to say I tried. And I figure this will be great practice before I do the inner fendors. So here we go This is what I needed up,after cleaning all the gunk and casting material smooth down a bit I got my coats of ceramic red down. I though it looked just to much like a fire engine. And for the last color.... I am looking forward to the engine hopefully I will get a call on Tuesday, go get it tape everything off and have it ready for install by saturday. I also took the time to,try changing my valve cover color. Let me know what you think. Thanks again Suess

Just wondering if you are painting the bare metal, or have any concerns about rust in between the mating surfaces. I ask because I also matted mine but I did rust protection. Also the roof looks great!

This is what they look like.

Thank you for the response. I thought I was screwed with the front. The rims that are on it now had the holes drilled deeper so that it get some more thread ( that was done years ago). I never noticed it before until I did the disc brake conversion and started wondering why the holes looked wallered out. I figured I was going to have to get some weird back set rim. Again thanks for the info

47 Plymouth b/c As I sit still waiting for the engine to be finished. I started to look at rims. I want to get rid of the aluminum rims and go to the original look of the outer ring and the Plymouth ship center caps. But I know next to nothing about rims. The plan is to keep the same size tire in the rear 205/75R15. But go to a narrower tire in the front. I have a 195/75R15 currently. I did do the disc brake conversion and lowered the front with the eaton springs and moved the coil perch down. ( going for a raked look) I am really hung up on using the Plymouth ship caps. I don't want to lose that look. Should I go narrower on the front? Do I need an offset for the front because of the disc brakes? Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Steel rubber also has them. We bought two of them one from bernbaums and one from steel. Both looked great but the one from bernbaums is now cracked and faded lasted 8 years. The one from steel still looks like new. About 8 years also. Bernbaums $8.50 Steel $40.00

Tim is there a way you can snap a shot of the hole. I do not have any to look at and I have tons of old upholstery tools. One of them looks like a leather punch that you insert different tips into.