p24-1953

well when i pulled the drain plug only about 2 cups of oil came out... i think that pretty empty.. i filled it up to the filler whole like the man. says

you had to bring up the leak.....

got the manule, but not the tool.... should i risk using an additive to help replinish the seals and stop the leak

it was almost empty before i filled it so i guess that was why it wasnt driping. so if its the rear trannyy seal how do i fix it?

silver dollar size after a day... so where could it be leaking from?

i have found that after i drained and refilled my transmission i have developed a leak. it is at the end of the transmission near the e-brake, i cant figure out exactly where. it looks liker there are two bolts on the end, and the drips are collecting there. where could the leak be coming from? (rear main seal) should i fix it? deal with it? is there something other that a rebuild i can do to stop it?

does any one know how thick the break pad should be? i am planning to have mine relined but just in case the shop does not know i want to be able to tell them.......

tim beat me to it.

im asking about the cardboard one that was in engine compartment

Where is the best place to get them for a 53?

yestesting in a series with a bettery and it shows no draw. i will test to see if the batery is charging as you said to and see what it shows

i ended up taking the car to a brake shop. i found i that i had one cylider that was leaking in the front but could not get a firm pedel. the shop said that the rear were not properly adjusted as soon as they fixed that i have a very firm pedel and the car stops great now.

robert, i ended up taking the car to a brake shop. i found i that i had one cylider that was leaking in the front but could not get a firm pedel. the shop said that the rear were not properly adjusted as soon as they fixed that i have a very firm pedel and the car stops great now.

i have just been idleing in the garage or slowly driving aroung the block while i work on my breaks. the battery is new (a month or two old) i dont think there is a drain my teseter is not showing any draws when the key is off. what are the symptoms of a failing voltage regulator?

i am trying to chase down a problem with the charging on my 53 plymouth. the battery will last for about 6 weeks before it is dead. I run the car twice a week for 20 mins aprox. when the car is running you can disconnect the battery and it will continue to run. what could be causing the battery to drain? i do not have a short. The car has been rewired and has no signs of a draw when the battery is connected with the key off. When the car is running the dash shows that it is charging. Is it the gen. or the volt regulatior, or something else?

bob how did you do that? wire the fm modulator to pick up on am?

hey lou what email? thanks for the info and i would like to talk to you about that door..... this place is great....

does anyone know the part number for the emergancy brake band?

i bought the weather proof ones from summit. i think that there good quality?

i think i paid about 12-17 for 100' but it did not match the original... those prices could start to add up. i totalled at less than 100 for the whole car including crimpers and wire ends

i did mine about a month ago. i bought my wire in hundred foot rolls from summit it is a third of the price that way. a 100' worked on everything but the 16 ga i think i had to start a second roll on it. probley only used 25 ' of the second roll. i picked a different color for each guage and started at the headlights and worked back. take your diagram to a kinkos or something and blow it up 200-300 % stick it to the roof or wall and highlight as you go. its not hard i did mine on a friday after noon and worked a little each night for about a week or so and finished it up.. its amazing how bright 6 volt headlights can be... let me know if i can be any help

well i tried again last night. i replace the push rod with the originals. bought a nice flare wrench and tighned the crap out of everything. went for a test drive and the pedel is a little soft the first pump but the second push will lock the tires up at 40. we wiil see if there is a drip tonight. do i just need to rebleed the brakes to firm up the pedel?

if you dont mind me asking what was the total cost.

also are any kits direct bolt on? do any kits switch to a direct bolt on dual chamber m/c? are any kits direct bolt on for the rears?

thought about that but i have yet to see a total price to switch over. i have read 400-1000 and that is a pretty wide spread. does any one actuall know what it cost to do a front brake conversion?