splat1955

Hey........thanks guys...for the light switch info....I'm going to add at least one of these to my drivers side......maybe a couple.

Right On Norm....sounds like your pretty happy with it, I'd like to hear more as you put some more miles on it.....And I didn't know that such a fine line of tools could be found in the hardware and plumbing sections!

Hey, thanks Greg, Shel and Don for the info and pics. Well, I'm going to get after pulling that cable today...rainy and cold here which means maybe using 2 blankets on the garage floor....and a second cup of coffee. I'm only replacing the cable cause first, I don't think it is a thick as it really needs to be and second, there is about a 6 or 8 inch section that for some reason the shielding is missing from, kind of like it getting hit by the fan at some point in it's life....and some of the steel inside the shielding has even been shaved or cut. After so many posts about engines not turning over very fast, I figured I'd give that a try first as mine is not real quick at turning over even though the battery is only a few months old. It starts every time, just think it could turn over a bit quicker. Same speed turning over whether the engine is hot or cold. Also, there is a ground wire that seems to come up from where the cable is mounted under the genny and I think goes to the VR....or in the vicinity. Anyway, I'd better probably start my own post on this Cable/Ground Wire thing....I kind of feel guilty already about hijacking this post and mentioning the battery cable here.....sorry Tom....didn't mean to get off your topic.

First is the, hard to see, special bolt of which Greg speaks.

Course thread into the engine holding the genny bracket in place.

Fine thread and nut hold the battery cable.

Second is a connection, of which Greg speaks, at the head bolt.

The head bolt is threaded to accept a bolt to hold the battery cable.

Thanks Don......I had a feeling I'd read it wrong after I began to reply.....But, it doesn't hurt to ask as I've found so many...errrr, ummm, " different " things with this 'ol Dodge of mine. Like today, I thought I'd replace the positive ground cable from my battery. Easy enough. I couldn't see where the other end was connected to cause it ran under the genny. Figured down on the engine block somewhere....lifted the car, got under and find that there is an odd shaped plate...that has to be removed if you want to see up under the genny....plate that mounts flush with the frame...kind of. Used my mirror and flash light from above to see if I could find out where the ground cable terminated....looks like maybe on the back of the genny mount...but not sure. Decided at that point to take my daughter to town for lunch and an ice cream. Tomorrow is another day. Just thought I'd share that " ground cable " thing...Never would I have imagined changing the ground cable was going to be so involved...

Hey, I like this idea....where exactly can you get these...I could use a couple....Okay to use for our old 6V systems, huh? Tell me more.

Pretty sure you can buy these from old parts people. They are stock on the passenger side of P23s. I purchased three more to put in every door. I do not know if your thread is the same however..

We use the flat rate USPS boxes & envelope here nearly every day. You can stuff as much weight as you can into either of the 2 different size Flat Rate boxes that USPS offers....as long as what ever you put into them doesn't change the size of the box dimensionally. We use the Flat Rate envelope too.....I can put our Desert Camo Tire Covers in the envelope and we also get a military mess kit in an envelope too....and they are delivered within 2 to 3 days. They are the best deal USPS has going.

Hey Guys,

I'm am still new to these cars and the flatheads....so this question may be really lame, but again, I'm still learning. Now, I've seen fuel pumps on GMs malfuction in my day....putting some fuel in the pan. But, I am curious as to how fuel from the carb might get into our oil via the dipstick or oil filler neck....or did I read the original post wrong. I've had carbs dump fuel into the oil in old GM motors too in the past......over flowing, open valves and seeping past the worn rings...and I suspect that could happen in our flatheads as well. Anyway, I was just curious and hope my question makes sense. Oh, yeah, and fuel in the oil, I agree...not a good thing at all.

Well Norm....just started reading posts from today....and see you are putting in the OD........That post was from this morning...it's about 5 PM....and just wondering how it's going. Your probably out cruising in it, huh? Hope it's going good.

Good Info Skip........yeah, I got the email from UPS today cause I use them almost daily. Man, I hate to see them bump thier rates again, but it looks like it's going to be. So everyone, keep an eye on the shipping for anything you order or invoice for, cause quite a few of the standard services are going up, including ground. Awwww, the cost of doing business.

Lou,

I feel your pain and the high cost to have something shipped. In this mornings paper I ran across an article in the busness section that UPS is raising their rates again.

This all should come out in the end when the stock market crashes. I believe this is needed to bring everything back into alignment.

Skip

My thoughts exactly Pat.

the nickel and diming added up to killing the fun for me on eBay. Things like Craigs list and Kijiji and some local sites are way better.

R.I.P. eBay

I was thinking that maybe the other journals wouldn't need turning and you might get away with just rounding out the rod and taking a little off of the one journal that had the spun bearing, especially since it sounded like you hadn't put many miles on it after having it rebuilt.....but, on the other side of the coin.....maybe there was some bad machining on that crank when rebuilt and all the journals were questionable when the motor went together. Either way, if you've got a good shop and machinist, and the bearings go in correctly, you shouldn't have a problem with the bottom end for quite a while. Keep us posted...

Update on the crank, etc.

Took the parts to the machine shop yesterday and they called me today. Told me that the crank needs reground and will need to take off .020 per journal including mains. Also rod is .006 out of round and that they can fix that.

Looks like I will need all new rod and main bearings. Already figured that pretty much. Will be nice when I get it back together and in the car. At least I will know what was done to it now as I am putting it together.

That can be a good thing and a bad thing.

Hmmmm....does it still have a floor? Were you able to open the doors at all? What did the other side of body look like...and what do you think he'd want for it? Just curious...and probably " wishing".

Come and get it:D

My guess would have been a Buick as well.....body styles are very similar to this Nash. I love that body style and hope to find something between '36 & '40 next year to start building.

Yeah Bob.........I'd like to know how you did that too still having 6V....I'd like to do that to mine as well. Let us know.

bob how did you do that? wire the fm modulator to pick up on am?

Yeah, now that I look, mine says the last entry was in march....yet I know I threw a few bucks in not long after I joined in August....maybe it is updated periodically. But then, are't the archive discs available with a donation? I haven't seen those yet...hmmmm, maybe I should check Paypal and make sure my donation transaction completed.

Speaking of contributions, maybe my cookies are corrupted or something, but when I go to the contribution info, it shows nothing contributed since March 2007. I think I sent a few meager bucks after that. Do you folks see the same date?

My '48 Dodge has the same set up.....just less rust.

Sounds good Norm....yeah, maybe with the pic you can send a description as to what the dimension is from the base of the rubber to the tip, what the diameter is of the base. Mine has 3/8 fine threads with square " carriage " like head to fit into the same on the lower control arm. Maybe with that info I can figure out if it will work....thanks Norm

I doubt that my Hollander book will go into that much detail, but I can shoot a quick photo tonight and post it for comparison to the one you still have on the other side. No payment needed if I send it, just the postage.

Hey Norm,

I forgot to mention. Roberts shows the lower control arm bumpers as thier part number P226....Showing they will work on '38 - '48...They show Part # A150 as fitting the '49 & '50....so, it may be there is a difference between what you have and what I have. Do you have an interchange...or anyone you know here have one that we can ask?

I might have one in some old 1950 parts. Used condition, but it should work. I'll check and let ya know.

Man, that would be great Norm. After having done the spring cut, I've found that I'm missing the drivers side bump stop. And, after all that work, I've decided I am going to get another set of springs...new ones, and cut them. Since my cutting the springs and driving the car...these old springs really settled...much lower than anticipated. So, as they say, back to the drawing board. But not having that drivers side bumper right now, I really can't totally trouble shoot a noise in the front. Let me know what ya got.....I was going to order a new one from Roberts, but if I can get used one here quicker that would be great. I can send you some cash for the part or postage or what ever you might need to get it here.

Thanks again Norm.

I might have one in some old 1950 parts. Used condition, but it should work. I'll check and let ya know.

Hey Guys,

Does anyone out there possibly have a bump stop for the lower control arm they can spare.....I need a decent used one. I've got the 48 Dodge and figure the '46 & '47 are the same.....but if anyone with an interchange could look it up to see if maybe the Plymouths of the same years or any of the other years, makes and models. I'm trying to trouble shoot a noise in my suspension, and I am missing the bump stop on the drivers side. Any help would be appreciated. Can send $ for the part, postage through Paypal or what ever works....just would like to get one soon. I will also place this request in the " parts wanted" section, but was hoping I might find one here quicker. Thanks guys.

I'm with Rockwook and Norm.....Get it out of the weeds.....some blasting, DA & primer..........little wood work and veggies.....

I lived in Santa Barbara and Goleta from '74 to '79.....I remember these getting pumped out on a regular basis....you'd see them all over the place. Seems like all the " well to do " in Santa Barbara had one. Anytime I saw one parked somewhere, I'd go and take a look at it....they were some pretty cool rides in that day.

Yeah, probably best leaving the skin for the a Lincoln enthusiast as you said....but the Shell Outboard Oil can was cool too! By a " sealed oil filter unit " are you saying that there was a sealed unit made for our cars...that was a " throw away"....canister and all? So, instead of there being a removable top to take off and remove the filter from the inside of the canister, it's all a 1 piece unit? But then, with a unit like that, you'd have to remove the oil lines each time a change was being done besides removing it from the bracket....do I have it right? Interesting.

I'd like to hear what the status was on the crank and the rod end after the machine shop mics them....out of round, etc. Keep us posted.

Hey Shel..........did ya keep that cap? Man, that's a nice old garage wall ornament there!