38plymouth

Just what the title says. I noticed my belt looks like crap and I need to replace it. I added a 6 volt alternator and could use a slightly shorter belt. Anyways, the car is in storage and I was hoping to but a belt and do the swap in one trip. Otherwise looks like I need to go pull the belt and bring it to napa.

Except you aren't getting 50 watts most of the time. Where I live and drive sitting in the suicide lane at night trying to turn with dim lights and a black car makes you a target. They aren't dim at idle anymore. Your generator simply isn't capable of the same performance. It's awesome that you are happy with your car though.

60 amps. And there is no way a stock generator is powering 6 volt lights as bright as 12 volt. My generator worked fine but a bearing started making noise. I personally cleaned every connection in the system before adding the alternator and it is still a night and day difference. At idle or low rpms with the lights on and fog lights on they were very dim until you increased the rpms. With the alternator they are the same at idle as they are at all rpms. And they are brighter. This swap is a no Brainerd if you actually drive the car.

Just a little update on the 6 volt alternator install. I would highly recommend it to anybody whether you have a generator that still works or need to replace it. All the lights and everything just works so much better on the car. I took it on its longest drive today since I did the install and drove probably 45 minutes and this is weird for me to say but I swear the car just runs better. It seems like it idles better has better power and it's smoother I don't know if it could have something to do with maybe a better spark or what. I know it definitely starts faster. I think this is easily the best thing I have ever done to the car.

Same thing, generator started making noise and I never liked the performance out of it. It was probably cheaper to do the alternator as well. Unless you are building a numbers matching car the alternator just makes sense. My car is close to 100% stock, alternator, lowered slightly and dual exhaust. They all made it a nicer looking and performing car but can easily be put back to stock.

I just did a 6 volt alternator and it is the single best thing I ever did to the car. It's crazy how much better the lights and blower work at idle. If I was you I would stop messing around and spend 200 bucks and make your car work great.

I'm posting this in case somebody else with a 38 or older car is looking for a radiator cap that works. My car does not have a pressurized system and the cap is kind of hard to find. I found a few on eBay or some other companies and they always want a premium for them and then they charge a ridiculous amount of money for shipping. I figured there had to be a cap out there that would work so I took my old one to Tractor Supply and found a diesel gas cap off of either a tractor or truck that fits perfectly. It doesn't look exactly the same as the original but I really don't care I may paint it black and I'm sure nobody will ever notice. Best part it was only 12 bucks.

I bet my relatives in New York just texted me that it's six degrees. It's been in the mid 80s here all week and supposed to cool off into the 70s today through the weekend there is a reason why I moved to Florida. Of course in the summer when it's way too hot to drive a black car without air conditioning you guys in the north will be enjoying your cars.

It could be, it's 3 years old and the car sits for long periods of time. It tests good though. I just haven't driven it long enough to let it fully charge. I'm hoping to take it for a long drive when it cools off this weekend.

I drove it about 2 miles yesterday and the whine noise did quiet down a lot. It does appear to be caused by how much power its putting out. If I turn on everything it's gets a little louder. Looking forward to a long evening drive with bright lights.

I got mine from Bill Howard. He is a very nice guy and super helpful. I called him once because I was having an alignment issue and thought I was going to have an interference with the fan blade but I was able to adjust that. Then I called him a second time when I couldn't get the car to start he seems to know his stuff.

Disregard, I called the company and verified everything was wired correctly and it was. While on the phone with him troubleshooting I decided to pull the fuse for the ammeter thinking maybe it blew. It was completely fine and I put it back in and decided to try the starter button again and it worked. What a huge difference in how bright the lights are and how fast the fan runs compared to the original generator. This might be the best upgrade I've ever done on the car. The only issue I have is the alternator seems to whistle at idle. I'm not sure if it maybe is a belt alignment issue or maybe needs a new belt. I still need to troubleshoot that.

I just installed a 6 volt positive ground alternator in my 38 Plymouth p6. If it matters this car has the push button start on the firewall. According to the directions I needed to unhook the arm and FLD terminals on the regulator and then run a single wire from the alternator to the other pin on the regulator. I did that and now my push button start doesn't do anything. I'm not sure what I did wrong and could use some help. I'm going to attach a few pictures if I can the red wire is the one I ran to the alternator to the regulator. I will be changing that to Black tomorrow but that's all I had for now. You can also see where I disconnected the other two wires.

I tried led tail light bulbs from ebay and they are junk. They definitely don't work and the lead contacts are made really weird. The company refused to refund them without me paying shipping to return them, the shipping was more than the bulbs. I think it might be that company. They knew they wouldn't work in my application but lied and told me they were a direct fit.

I was reading your method when I found it in a search, I will give it a shot.

I looked up the spec in my manual and adjusted the free play to 1 inch. About a year ago I noticed the slipping and there was no freeplay in the clutch. At that point the car had been in storage only only driven a few miles a year for several years. Are there any other adjustments? My manual doesn't show any. I find it hard to believe the disc could be worn since I barely drove the car. A little edit, I was out looking at things and I'm not sure the freeplay is correct, the pedal has light pressure for about an inch and then it feels like normal pressure. Should the free play be really loose as in zero pressure at all?

I don't remember what the free play is but I adjusted it last year and put it to the specs in my manual I think it was half or 1 in.

Actually the rear seal has always leaked and it didn't hurt the old clutch. Is there another adjustment or something I could be missing?

My clutch is slipping, in 2nd or 3rd it will slip if I go full throttle. I have a leaky rear seal and suspect oil is on the disc. I just put on the emergency brake and revved up the engine and let out the clutch in 2nd gear and I an hold the engine at 2000 rpms and it starts smoking and stinking. I have plenty of free play in the pedal. I put the clutch in around 13-14 years ago, everything was new and I bet it doesn't have 1000 miles since. Any options at this point? Maybe some brake cleaner sprayed up in there? I don't want to do that job again. An old car guy told me to do what I did in the driveway and burn the oil off. It didn't seem to work and I was worried about it arching on fire.

Does anyone know what type of metal the radiator is made of on a 38 plymouth?

It's not leaking at the fill neck where the corrosion is, it's like a green powder. I did the vinegar flush last year for the inside, I'm more concerned with the outside corrosion.

I have some green corrosion around the filler neck on my radiator. Also the radiator cap on my it is rusting which is causing an issue as well in that area. Then I discovered today that the drain valve in the bottom is slowly leaking. I want to pull the radiator and if I can find a company near me to boil it out and kind of restore it I'll do that but I'm having trouble finding anyone. Is there anything I can use when I have the radiator out that will clean that corrosion off so I can paint it and protect it again?

Another 38, about time....I have owned a 38 p6 4 door how about 25 years. It's a low mile almost 99% original car. Sadly I barely use it anymore and it sits in storage...I should sell it but just can't convince myself to do it.

If I remember correctly, its closed at high vacuum during idle then opens when at Cruise and low vacuum. It creates a lean condition off idle if you don't adjust the carb for it.

A pcv system also adds a vacuum leak to your system. I struggled with running lean for years and finally yanked the pcv off and the car has never run better. I guess if you had the right carb and jets you could make it work, it sure didn't like my stock b&b.