38plymouth

I don't know if it's because the shaft is wearing on this thing or what but after the car sits for a little bit the shaft sticks and the only way to fix it is to disassemble the carb and pull out the shaft and scrub it clean with scotch bright. I'm done dealing with it. Three of the screws that hold the top down are stripped and have nuts and bolts in them and I'm just over this worn out carburetor. Would really like to hear from somebody who has actually used this new carburetor. I am not going to be fixing the old one anymore.

It sticks with or without the linkage hooked up. It's the throttle shaft itself I imagine it's fairly worn and I know it leaks a little vacuum. This carburetor is just worn out I have rebuilt it so many times in the last 20 something years. These new carburetors are 300 bucks and they say it is a direct bolt on to my car and they're about 45 minutes from me I'm hoping I can drive over there and see one in person.

And.....the throttle is starting to stick again. I have barely driven the car. I'm so tired of this carb and its stripped screws and leaks. So, I am looking at daytona parts company UN2 universal single barrel replacement carb. Have any of you replaced your b and b with one of these?

I had one on my car for about 10 years and never could fix the lean situation. I always had a stumble and without finding and drilling out Jets it seemed like it was never going to go away. I pulled the system off a few years ago and the car runs better than ever.

Tried that and didn't work. Literally had to pull the carburetor off disassemble it and have it on its side then I sprayed it with some silicone dry lube stuff I had and that fixed it.

Just an update I drove the car quite a bit yesterday and cleaning and lubricating the throttle shaft seems to have worked. The throttle never stuck once like it was doing. It is interesting trying to lubricate it while the carburetor was on the card did not work I had to actually take it off and disassemble it.

Well I'm shocked but feel like it's fixed. The throttle shaft has always been a little sloppy and probably leaks a bit. Anyway I pulled everything apart again and was thinking the throttle shaft is so loose and smooth there's no way there's anything wrong with it. I cleaned and lubricated it really good and put everything back together and was thinking that was a waste of time. But apparently that was it because so far I can't get the throttle to hang at all. I also finally stripped the fourth screw that holds the top of the carburetor on so now it just has three nuts and bolts. So I'm really ready to just buy a new carburetor if anyone knows of something that would would work with these engines.

Well the throttle works really smooth like butter without the car running. I have never had the throttle shaft out of the carburetor and all the years I've owned the car. I'm going to pull the carburetor and see if there's anything going on there but I just don't think that's it. I'm willing to try it though cuz I'm at a loss here. I'm actually ready to just buy a new carburetor. I've rebuilt this one so many times and I have so many strips screws I'm just kind of over this thing. I swear I've had it apart 30 times in the 25 years of on this car.

I know this doesn't make much sense and it's confusing the heck out of me. I'm sure I could get a very stiff spring that would solve the problem but then I'll have a very stiff throttle pedal. Nothing changed with the car when this started happening. It's never happened before and for the life of me I can't figure it out. I can work the throttle 50 times with the car off and it always closes against the idle speed screw. If the car is running at least every other time you touch the throttle it sticks open a little bit and will only come back if you kick the throttle down.

It only does it when it's running. I have to kick the pedal to get it to idle back down or physically push the throttle on the carburetor with my finger. If it's not running it doesn't do it at all. It doesn't matter if the linkage is on or off the carburetor when it's running the throttle will stick in like a high idle situation. It does it about every other time you press the throttle. I just took the carburetor apart again can't find anything wrong.

OK this is driving me crazy. The last few times I've driven my car the idle will stick a little high like maybe a thousand to 1500 RPMs and I have to tap the throttle to get it to drop. I've unhooked linkage and cables and everything is free. Nothing is sticking and I lubricated everything just in case. With the car off and everything unhooked the throttle moves nice and free with no binding. As soon as I start the car with all the linkage un hooked and just working the throttle by hand it gets stiff and will hang up a little. In fact sometimes the throttle will just take off and rev right right up. I tried a stiffer spring and that doesn't do much. It might have helped a little. I took the carburetor apart thinking the accelerator pump was sticking and it's not I can't find anything wrong in the carburetor. Any thoughts?

I have been wanting to do this since my car sits a lot and it takes a while to start for the first time. My logic also says it would be nice to have in case the mechanical pump fails. Is there any reason not to have this pump installed with the mechanical pump? Or is it better to just eliminate the mechanical pump and run the electric? I kind of like the option of having both just in case.

Just we understand each other, first time in 25 years touching the starter. I've spent hundreds of hours working on everything else?

Well I solved my own problem this morning after spending too much time checking the battery and cleaning all battery connections and start connections. I even pulled that little starter relay thing off the top and clean that up inside. It was kind of crappy so I figured that might have been the problem but I hit the push button start with my foot and nothing again. I started thinking it feels kind of weird though. If I pushed the relay with a screwdriver the starter would spin. I started looking closer and would you believe a bolt had fallen out of the linkage so the push button start wasn't doing its job. What should have been a 5-minute repair turned into almost two hours but at least I have clean connections now.

Just an update I got my car back together and my grommets were installed upside down. The flat side should be facing you and seal against the bottom of the floor pan. It did make a difference when they are installed correctly with the amount of fumes that get into the car when driving.

So after owning this car about 25 years I finally had a no start situation. Hit the foot starter button and nothing. I kept trying it and then finally after five tries the car started. Of course now I was afraid to drive it so I turned it off and tried it again and it didn't start it again. So this morning my first order of business is to check the cables and make sure everything is clean. If that's not it I guess I've got to pull the starter. Just looking for any advice, I've never messed with the starter on this car before. I watched Keith's video last night on YouTube showing the starter from his 38 that he has. Really hoping it's something simple I've been trying to drive the car as much as possible lately and of course now this has to happen.

Well turns out I was worried about nothing the pitting wasn't anywhere near where the rubber cups and seals are. And It cleaned up in just a couple of minutes with a hone. I guess it looked worse than it was.

I ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit from bernbaums and just pulled the master cylinder out of the car and there is some pitting inside. I've been hitting it with a hone but I'm not sure I'll be able to get it all out. Two questions before I have to spend almost $200 on a master cylinder and wait for shipping g. Is any pitting acceptable? And secondly what if I keep honing it to get 99% of the pitting out could I hone it too much? I can feel the pitting with my fingernail but it's not what I consider real bad. I really wanted to have the car put back together this weekend I had to pull the floor pan out to get the master cylinder out the easiest way. I do want it to be correct though and don't want to have to do this again.

I have already watched most of his videos. I'm a fan of his channel. Getting the steering wheel straight is on the to-do list. Right now I'm in the middle of rebuilding the master cylinder and putting the floor back in with new bushings. Unfortunately still trying to get the correct parts from Bernbaums, for some reason they sent me a gray shifter boot when I ordered tan.

I'm 99% sure the steering wheel goes on a keyed shaft and it isn't a spline like other cars. The only place I can see that does have an adjustment is the tie rods. I was hoping there was something else I was missing but I just don't see it.

I've had my car for over 25 years. The whole time the steering wheel has not been centered it is off to the left maybe about 10:00. I know the steering wheel itself is not splined so I can't make an adjustment there. Any thoughts on what I would do under the car to get steering wheel centered? I'm thinking it is probably a tie rod adjustment issue? It has always annoyed me and I'd like to fix it.

I just unbolted the entire bracket assembly from the frame and there isn't a lot of play there. I think I may just install them backwards from the way they are now. I feel like that might actually cover the hole better. Maybe mine were changed out and installed backwards.

I'm installing them the same way as the ones that were on the car. I believe they could be original because the car is a very low mileage original car but I'm not 100% positive. Here's a picture of the one that came off the clutch pedal next to the new one. Even still if they don't fit in the slot they are off center and don't seal the hole.

I pulled the floor on my 38 plymouth to replace the grommets and to get to the master cylinder so I can rebuild it. I have these grommets forever a d think they came from bernbaum. Anyway they are a little different shape than the originals but look like they should work. However, my pedals aren't centered in the floor opening so the grommets can't lock into the groove correctly. Any thoughts here? I'm wondering if I unbolt the entire pedal assembly from the frame if there might be enough play to center them? I haven't tried anything yet since I need to order some parts. Hoping someone here knows a solution before I start really digging into it. I have the new grommets installed on the clutch pedal in the pic.

I used to work at Napa in my previous life and it was my experience that they didn't show anything made by Plymouth in the '30s. Whenever I needed to order parts I had to order from a car from 40 and up. Not sure if that has changed. I guess I'll pull the belt and bring it with me I was hoping to do this in one trip.