manfromtarsus

This week I completed the installation of new front and rear leaf springs on my B-4-B. This afternoon I took it for a spin to experience the results. What a huge difference the new springs and shackles made! I ordered the springs from Betts Spring in Fresno, CA (available in standard or heavy duty configurations, based on original Mopar specs). They have been making springs since 1868. I dealt with Sam Holmes who was a delight to work with. Mounting hardware came from Eaton Detroit Spring (shackles, shackle grease seals, and U-bolts. DCM provided spring pins (which take 3/8”-24 grease zerks, by the way). Yes, I had to deal with three suppliers, but the results were great!

Thanks!

Is there a part number or dimensions for the cork washer. I am unable to find the part or reference to it in my parts book.

Does the Autolite IAT 4011 distributor utilize a rubber 0-ring where the distributor shaft assembly joins the block?

A DuPont/Nason dealer in Flagstaff, AZ, helped me find the correct red color for my B-4-B about 3 years ago. It turned out to be Nason 5498ID. I used acryllic enamel and am very pleased with the result. If you locate an Axalta dealer (Axalta bought out Dupont/Nason), they should be able to match that color.

Do a Google search for "Ditzler 70339" and you will find some very useful information to assist you.

I recently had my '53 B-4-B gear box completely rebuilt by Red Head (see link below). They installed a new worm gear and now there is absolutely no free play in the steering box. Very pleased with their work. http://www.steeringgears.net/

The driver side check arm (1097 695) of my B-4-B pops loudly when I open the door all the way. The right side door has a only a quiet "click." I've sprayed the check arm ends with lithium grease but it still makes a loud pop. Any suggestions other than to buy ear plugs? Ha! Thanks!

I have a NOS rear brake drum for 1953 B-4-B if you need one.

I am having a similar problem. I was able to get the window out. What I have been unable to do is remove the door latch mechanism/remote control going to the door handle. Any suggestions out there?

Thanks, guys. Gloss black it will be.

I'm getting ready to paint my '53 bumpers. Should the black be gloss, sem-gloss or matte finish? Any suggestions are welcome.

I just received one of these from Midwest Military (952-440-8778) in Prior Lake, MN. They have a few more.

Here is my restored 1957 Ferguson 40. This color scheme was used only in '56-'57. Last series of Fergusons before they became Massey Fergusons. By the way it is for sale if anyone is interested. AZ

I got a new cable unit a couple of years ago from Carsons Antique Auto Parts, 235 Shaw Farm Rd, Holliston, MA 01746-2530, (508)429-2269.

What I have done is use a q-tip to carefully cover only the black part with vaseline. Then spray white paint on the entire knob. When it is dry, then wipe the vaseline off the black part and the white paint for the letters remains.

You might try going to www.auveco.com . Section 19 of their catalog shows hundreds of retainers. The pages are 350-389 and the specs are found on pages 390-397. You can download their entire pdf catalog as it has many other items that may be useful to PH owners. You can call 1-800-354-9816 to find a dealer in your area. If you find what you need, please post the specifics.

Google McMaster-Carr and do a search for product 1141A1. It has a 1/2" foam bead with a 1/2" lip to rivet to the sheet metal. It sells for $2.24 per foot. It is gray in color but guess it can be painted black.

I recently ordered a pair of front shocks for my B-4-B from Amazon.com (Gabriel - all black) and am very pleased. it took about two weeks for delivery. Paid $49.87, including shipping, for the pair.

I am missing the "Dodge" nameplate (#1386 452) found in the center of the dash on most B-4 trucks. Anyone out there got a spare or know of a source? Thanks.

Fellows, Your information and photos are most helpful. Thanks!

My 1953 B-4-B had no lines to either water temp gauge or the oil pressure gauge when I got it. I've identified the place where the oil line attaches fo the block but need to know its route and where it passes through the fire wall. The water temp sensor port seems to be on the driver's side on the vertical part of the head very close to the back of the engine. Is this correct? Again, where does the line pass through the fire wall? Any help is greatly appreciated.

My understanding is that Dodge trucks went to a 12v system in 1956. When did they go from a foot-operated mechanical starter to a key starter using a solenoid?

Setting aside the aesthetics, is it safe to use old, original headbolts when rebuilding an engine or should one replace with new ones? Four of my originals need to be replaced on the 218. Anyone out there have some used originals?

I was able to locate a very good one which I have agreed to buy. Thanks for your effort. Sooner or later someone will need yours.