kouseneric39

Thank you this still doesn't tell me the power wire from the switch that works the motor.the color of my wires is so gone I can't use that so time for my good old test light

Unfortunately my sevice manual doesn't have the wiper motor in the wiring diagram

Found a key switch the fits in the dash for 12v. Also on a 39 the wiper motor power feed wire is witch one on the terminals on the engine my shop manual has colors but my wires don't lol

Beautiful cars I'm not to worried about originality engine wise based on this car being swapped with a newer 53 dodge engine.so I decided to get am 12volt conversion the eventual engine swap will need it regardless.im thinking I may just put a switch to the alternator exciter wire and the coil without the key. Also trying to figure out witch wire from the sending unit to put the 6v seltep down in

Im currently in the middle of doing my 12 volt conversion few questions can I retain my key switch by cutting of the big cable that goes to my old coil just using the two terminals on the factory ignition switch??

Yes

What's the process of polarizing the generator I'll be doing all of this stuff tommarow

Correct I put white lithium grease on the shafte and spline before installing the trans hopefully all is well lol

I did the shaft was good I cleaned it 10x better with machine polish and 2000 grit.still no drive shaft this was just testing it before I went any further into re assembly. I went really slow to my time.polishing the i/d of the bushing until it measured within factory parameters.so I'll install the drive shaft tomorrow and I'll take it out for a road test get everything heated up and see what happens lol

The miller tool was already sold the seller didn't know why it was reposted.so I decided I would ream it there was no reason in my mind to not try to hone the already installed bushing.since the bushing is brass I used a 3/4 hand flute reamer the hole then used 2000 grit and machine polish to further polish the inside of the bushing.after all of that I put the car back together.it shifts better then ever .the weird growl is gone and the clutch works as it should. As far as the longgevity of the repair I cant say. I will say this I bought a micrometer and measured 4 spots on the bushing it's within spec of what the factory calls for.so I would recommend like many of you did to always measure everything.im still not 100% sure if it was the wrong bushing to start.lets not forget there was no bushing when I took the vehicle apart Thank you again for everyone's help Next order or business is the generator wasn't working when I bought the car I put new brushes but still nothing.anyway have a breakdown of how to diagnose this properly?

I have a 39 dodge d10 I bought the car running and drive but the generator wasn't charging.i took it out and installed new brushes.still no luck.what would be the course of action to track down if it's something other then the generator being shot.

So here's a update the brass bushing that is installed I reamed with a 3/4 hand flute then used 2000 grit paper with machine polish to clean up the bore.it can out clean within factory spec.so I decided to put it back together.WORKED PERFECT.so I can't say the longevity of the repair yet however.the trans shifts beautifully with no drive shaft.clutch is operating properly.so ide say this was a two part issue.#1 was the wear on the entire tourque shaft assembly. Solution is the touque shaft replacement kit. #2measure your bushing and the crank before anything.mis installed pilot bushing cause the input shaft to bind on the bushing. (Not recommended by everyone) Solution I Reamed the bushing using a 3/4 hand flute then polished the bushing with 2000 grit and machine polish. I know only what I'm learning about these cars so we will see how she holds up this summer.

Unfortunately the ebay miller burnishing tool isn't coming the seller already sold it dose anyone have any ideas where to source the miller dd-286 burnishing tool?

Third time will be a Charm.i got the origal olite bronze bushing mopar part #53298 .the brash one that is in the car isn't hurt in anyway just to tight on the input shaft.so I'm going to use the burnishing tool and see if that does anything for me on the brass one that's currently installed.however I have the olite bushing ready for a spare and I have a micrometer to measure everything if I have to go down that road.

Thank you very much