62rebelP23
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As a side note, my '52 Cambridge had a discreet little disclaimer label on the inside of the glovebox door warning the owner that their chrome was not as thick nor was the copper underneath it, due to the war efforts.... I do know that the chrome picked up a greenish "fuzz" if not kept polished.
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Reading your post, you're setting yourself up for lots of sparks and tears. Regardless of "ground"; never jump positive to negative posts. Red cable to the POSITIVE post on the battery; black cable to the cable stud on the starter, or to the NEGATIVE post ON THE BATTERY. As far as internal sensing on the booster, I wouldn't trust it. And the 12v is only being used by the starter while cranking (and the ignition circuit, sorry) , so as long as your lights, etc, are off, no worries.
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have had carb fires twice, (both those despicable Ford VV 2700's), starters that shook themselves loose, driveshafts looking for quick escape routes, rear AND front wheels parting company with the car... my wife's Valiant losing it's brakes on her, and later losing the differential.... had a pickup blow a muffler off in traffic because of sticking valves.... walking back to pick up a smoldering muffler and jamming it back onto the now-open exhaust in Northern Virginia traffic was a load of fun. Good thing we had some baling wire on hand. Had a Spitfire that had bad front calipers; it would drive fine out on the highway, but a couple of stops in town and they would lock up tight. Too poor to replace and too inexperienced to rebuild them at the time. And Bonehead moves? leaving not only half the wires off a Ford FE engine, but having the valve cover off doing valve adjustment and going inside for lunch... need to go somewhere afterwards, click hood closed and drive off.... car's kinda weak, no acceleration... WTF? Don't figure it out until I get home and open the hood... hadn't lost a tool or any of the valve cover nuts. Fitted everything back together and she ran like a timex watch.
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Just noticed you live in Lynchburg; I used to live there, was raised in Amherst County. Hall Battery and Auto Sales had a nice '36 four door Plymouth for a long time; it was a dark blue. Of course, I have no idea if they're even still in business; I left the 'burg in 1995
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Neat. I see you live in Charleston, SC. I used to go there for work, maybe 15-20 years ago. Great food there. My cohort at work is in Aiken, SC this week.
I don't recall 'Hall Battery...', I'll have to look it up.
I've been here in Lynchburg about 14 years, but work out of my house and still occasionally get lost.
Have a great day. Thanks for reaching out.
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I lived out in the Old Forest Road area for a couple of years and then bought a house on Cabell street. Lived there for six years until work dried up and we moved back to Charleston, my Navy duty station. Been there since. Lot of change in the 'burg since I left; I check out Mapquest from time to time to keep track. Sometimes check real estate listings out of curiosity... might come "home" once we retire. Getting sick of South Carolina.
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Hall Battery and Auto Sales used to be up on the corner of mayflower drive on the east side of town. I worked for Brian and his wife for a few years. Worked for Babcock and Wilcox for a couple of years. Bounced around from machine shop to machine shop until I decided production work wasn't my forte. I was always a better forensic accountant than anything else... (you got employees stealing from you? I'll find them.) Not a lot of work in that field here, though. Run a purchasing office, spend other people's money, keep the wheels greased.
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Studying the factory setup, I have reservations about modifying it, but the Jag ball joint design looks adaptable to the MoPar control arms, possibly allowing the use of the Jag spindles and brakes.....
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Luckily, I work for an ISO tank facility, so getting some rectangular steel tube isn't an obstacle at all....
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Yep, same place I've been for twenty one years now! I've already got the parts, just working out what kind of car to use them on.... If the factory MoPar stuff weren't pretty darn good to start with, I wouldn't be so reticent about simply hacking into a car and doing it just for the doing of it. My Cambridge rode well, the few times I actually got to drive it around (up and down the block a couple of times). And that was on worn out shocks and used radial tires!
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Yep I think I've read everything the HAMB has on the subject! You'd think Jag designed the front sub specifically for Ford F1's. I bet the DOHC six would slide right in where a 218 was...... People think the old MoPars were inherently heavy cars but they're really not in comparison to what the Jag was. I'm torn between building something along the lines of a track T (except much larger) using the Jag stuff, or shoehorning it into something else, something innocuous and stealthy
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What I'm thinking of is taking a fairly solid 50-52 Plymouth four door that has no engine, trans, etc and transplanting the powertrain from an XJ6 into it. I know of a couple nearby that have grenaded flatheads but complete bodyshells. For all intents and purposes, they'd look stock externally except for the chrome jag wheels. Anyway, right now it's just a pipe dream, but the powertrain parts are sitting there in my back yard....
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I hadn't been able to find many pics of a bare frame to see the spring pockets, etc. The easier method of installing the entire rear cage instead of fabricating crossmembers, pinion supports, etc, makes the IRS a great choice for lots of cars. I also wasn't aware that MoPars were so narrow in track, although the rear guards always seemed too small for much of a tire unless it was raised in the rear. I think I DID see someone saying they were installing Jag spindles and control arms onto stock Mopar crossmember, but I lost the thread and can't see if it worked out. Those 11" front rotors and four piston calipers make for incredible stopping power, and coupled with the relevant rear discs, would be optimal. an XJ6 doesn't weigh much different than, say, a P16.
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Hi guys, I know I haven't been here for a while, but I've been searching the forum for information on installing Jag suspension (specifically, XJ6 front and rear suspensions) in the P15/D24 series of MoPars, and not finding much aside from a link to a guy doing a chevrolet... no help there. Any heathens contraverting chapter and verse by installing these?
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i haven't researched it, but maybe all Dodges had it. My great-Grandfather's coupe had it, because i can remember it being the only car with a clutch my Mom would drive without making a hash of it.... i was only two years old, Pop had just bought his last new car, a '64 Ford custom 300 with straight six and three on the tree; he let her drive the Dodge some before it ended up resigned to the back field. i blame that car for my fanatic love of old cars in general... mohair and natural rubber, steel and enamel, chrome and stainless.....
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of the two pics he posted, one showed flashing tape on the rear quarters at the decklid upper corners.... thinking there might be some holes there. it is a Fluid Drive, though; the decklid ornament shows it. thinking most Dodges had it at the time.
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funny you should say that, a '47 Dodge came up on Craigslist not too awful far away, but the seller already describes it as "rusty"... on Craigslist, "rusty" equals "nothing between the bottom of the dash and the ground".
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dang it. missed buying a '47 Plymouth sedan. ah mujjafarging luck.