D35 Torpedo

I was lucky enough to find a clock from an awesome guy on this forum. It had gears out of place and a broken wire. I was able to fix the mechanicals and repair the coil wire. Has worked flawlessly since. But they don't hold perfect time forever. Things like temperature affect the spring and what not. Still, it's plenty reliable and more handy that a phone when driving to work on the morning.

If you were on the west coast id give you one.

I wanted to tackle my radio but i didnt recognize the caps, this makes sense. I have the same radio as yours, 805 if i remember correctly. Ive read that people will open up the vibrator to clean and file the points, is this necessary? Can you show my how you wired the aux cord? I found a replacement radio that was removed from a car in the 60s as my original was pretty ugly inside, someone was in it before me. Thanks for posting your knowledge, gives me confidence as i am not experienced with radios and don't want to pop mine.

Ive taken many switches apart. They are crimped together so be prepared to carefully pry back the folded parts. Then expect it to be spring loaded. Contacts will probably fall out also. Fun stuff. Fluid film works good to lube them up.

Leaks will allow foreign material in as well.

Is your gauge plumbed into the correct port?

I got mine from napa. Worked good.

I bet the main issue is worn out piston rings. Pull the head, pistons and rods, shove a bunch of rags on top of the crank at the bottom of the bores and give it a hone. Clean it well. Put the pistons and rods back in with fresh bearings. Crank bears can be done one at a time by rolling them out and back in. Loosening all the main caps will help with that. But I do agree, to do it "right" you should pull the engine. Quick and dirty is the method I described, and it works for what you want.

I would thread lock them in with medium grade locktite or equivalent. They will stay in place, seal the hole and still come out, a little heat helps as well.

You could put a long pipe nipple in the cylinder 6 plug or heater outlet. Grab the thermostat neck at the front. Threaded holes on the side can also be used. Maybe thread a bolt in and use it in conjunction with a bar to pry up on the head, leaver off the bell housing or something.

Regular steel tube is fine. Even just a premade brake line will work fine as long as the brass fittigs are in place. Just bend it to fit.

No, i got two longer bolts and went through the top

I think i used the head bolts to chain to. I remember being concerned about using bolt holes in the head, opting to lift from the block. You get the size chain that fits your bolts.

That doesnt look original either..should have a bellows. Anyways, I got my replacement at Napa. I kept the box for future reference. I'll be home tomorrow if you still need it. Edit, Same as Young Eds in the thread Sam posted.

One other to mention, the condition of your rear engine mounts may affect the likely hood of using a ratchet.