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DJ194950

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Posts posted by DJ194950

  1. 6 hours ago, keithb7 said:

    A custom shroud is on my wish list when I get some time. I plan to build one. I think it will probably help more than a 6V fan. 

     

    I foresee another U-tube video in your future!  ?

     

    It is the season for a lot of views on this subject.

     

    DJ

    • Like 1
  2. Are you sure it is the shocks making the ride harsh? 

     

    Remove one end of both rears  push aside and take a short ride on a rough road.

     

    Could you have the springs themselves bound up, rusted tight, or other issues?

     

    Could be a reasonably quick way to check this old ( also cheap) dude thinks!  ?

     

    DJ

    • Like 1
  3. Cannot say for sure on the 1948, but the 1949 and 50 Plymouths did not use rubber under the front-most body mounts!

     

    Found it hard to believe for a while , but when I put bushings under the front legs of my  50 Suburban the doors could Not be properly aligned, needed to be removed.

     

    Distorted the door opening.

     

    DJ

  4. Grinds going into reverse?

     

    Don't they all?

     

    Not sure with a fluid clutch set up, but I always (mostly) shifted into second  gear followed closely in to reverse and eliminated the grinding.

     

    Has been a while since I drove the 3 speed in the 50 Ply. just a thought.

     

    Seems you will soon have a beautiful driving car.  Best of wishes! ?

     

    DJ

  5. Lacquer thinner used in enamel paints causes  much too fast of dry time that does not allow enough time for the enamel to flow out smooth  before it flashes off (sets) and causes rough surfaces.

     

    When the outside temp was cool enough and just enough thinner is used , sometimes a reasonable paint finish could be accomplished.

     

    But, it also tends to flatten (dull) the finish. It was  sometimes used in that way in the past to purposely make flat paint finishes before you could buy same.  IE flat black.

     

    Enamel  "reducers"  are sold in several dying Speeds to allow the correct flash off times to allow for temperatures and humanities variations.

     

    DJ

    • Thanks 2
  6. One questions as to all clearances.

     

    Were all the tappets and valve tip surfaces resurfaced (ground) on the rebuild?

     

    That flattens all the contact surfaces to make the measurements accurate.

     

    Just my Q. - - as my (rebuilt) 1950 Plymouth motor did not have those ground and cold clearances were to large as the contact surfaces were worn and impossible to get accurate measurements  and only a hot adjustment with fine small (fine) adjustments made to quiet the noisy valve train.. and confirm that they had adequate clearances

     

    But_ that was on a 1950 car that did have a removable inner panel to get in and do those hot adjustments.

     

    Believe me crawling in under a very warm fender and reaching over warm suspension parts while reaching around hot exhaust was Not any fun- doable but not a job to do twice!

     

    Understand that your car that is not even a possibility.

     

    Hang over a hot fender, reach under hot intake and exhaust?  I'd prefer not to even if it is possible.  ?

     

    DJ

  7. Many car makers and parts suppliers have called/label bushings as bearings over the years.   They serve the same function.

     

    Needle bearings, roller bearings, and on and on as to types of Bearings!  Load carriers that allow for movement is my take.  ?

     

    Anyway, up to you to choose, I am just sayings others definitions vary. 

     

    DJ

  8. May I ask a question or two of the people that had the Pertronix Ign. failures?

     

    (1) Did you all change to new Resistor spark plugs wires when the unit was installed..

     

    (2) Did you use the recommended Ign. coil or one that that had the coil resistance as recommended?.

     

    Seems some from past conversations that some things were omitted that need to used.

     

    I do know know myself the the Pertronix technical help people do not really seem to want to be definitive about answers to questions presented to them.. Seems the "6 volt" issue is lost on the techs. 

     

    Never been a problem to me as all my Pertronix experiences were on 12 volt apps. My own cars (3). No failures -Yet!

     

    Also to include about 3-400 change overs on construction rental equipment, forklift, boom lifts, sissorlift in my past life!

     

    DJ

  9. It was the only 1 BBL setup I have seen.

     

    Seems almost everyone in the FI business make a two BBL setup.

     

    One co., I forget which- sells a canister that has the electric fuel pump,  pressure regulator all in one that also eliminates the need for a return fuel line to the vehicle fuel tank.

     

    I think it was either the FI Tech company or Fast Fuel Injection company.  It also was not cheap but eliminates some other work and expense.

     

    Would love fro someone that could afford time and $ to give this a go!

     

    DJ

  10. Salesman's oversize demo product of Early product line Northern Quilted Toilet paper.

     

    Doubles for salesman emergency side of the road use?  ?

     

    But it does appear that it may be made of fiberglass, not a good place for it.  Asbestos even worse.  Remember just prototypes, not for human use!  ?

     

    DJ

  11. Take the new seal and the gear cover to a local machine shop and ask them to replace for you..

     

    Should be cheaper than buying a one time use tool for you and no chance of parts damage.  My 2 cents only!

     

    Maybe the front pulley also and ask them to install a speedy-sleeve on it also.

     

    Go home and have a cold drink or two and relax.. NO stress!

     

    A few days later pick up and install the parts and add paint, stand back , admire and enjoy life

     

    DJ

    • Like 2
  12. Bob,

     

    You can get a pretty fair look at the gears etc. by removing the side shifter cover.  That is where your shifter levers are located.

     

    Drain the trans oil first!

     

    Remove the shifter arms  after making sure the both are in the neutral position.

     

    Remove the two spring detent springs and balls that are located under the Big nots just ahead of the forward shifter arm location. They are about 3/4" headed nuts.  Remove slowly as just under the nuts are the springs that have some (not much ,but) pressure. There is a ball bearing sphere under each spring.  Keep the parts in order as to location.

     

    My trans had different lenght springs , but I believe that originally they are the same.  Not a huge deal as they only slip into slots on the rods for the shifters to hold them in various positions for the gear locations.

    I'm making this sound complicated where it is really not so.

     

    Remove the rest of the side shifter retaining bolts and lift the cover straight ? up and off.

     

    From that access hole you can se  almost of the parts inside for inspection.  Spray some brake clean or such to get better looks as desired.  ?

     

    Have fun, it is fairly straight forward.  ?

     

    DJ

     

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  13. 4 hours ago, harmony said:

    I can't justify paying for an ultra sonic cleaner, big enough to hold a carb body, that will sit collecting dust most of it's life. 

    Use it to clean the wife's  jewelry and collectable silverware/ etc.  ?

     

    Good for many favors? Your choice?  Makes the purchase worthwhile . You would also find more uses if you had it.  Different cleaning solutions for the various uses.

     

    DJ

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