Greg F

Will try that, if the new switch does not help my problem. As always thanks for the ideas...Greg

Will try a new switch and hope that helps before I get rear ended....

My brake lights work, but only if I stomp on it like no other. Most the time, just applying the brakes normally, do not light them up. Any ideas on how to fix this as a couple of people have gotten upset while following me. (New brake light switch, after market switch, ?.?) Thanks, Greg

Do you think adding some thickness to the lever on the starter would engage the pinion before hitting the starting switch?

Evening guys, I have an issue when starting. Sometimes when I push the starter pedal, it does not engage the flywheel and makes a grinding noise. Other times starts up just fine. Just had the starter rebuilt and did not fix the problem. Did the same thing with the 218, now have a 230 installed. Usually fixes itself it just push car forward or backwards a few inches.(12 volt) Any ideas? Pedal not pushing forward enough? Teeth ratio problem? Thanks, Greg

A lot of good suggestions guys...Thanks. Have to get the car back form these guys as they are sitting on it, now that I already paid in full. Again, thanks for all the suggestions, this website is amazing!

Thanks P.A. as usual for all the good advice, will check all those suggestions out.

Beautiful motor!! Think that is the route i'm going to try as soon as I get it home.

When I drove it home it over heated(212), so took it back. Now they say up around 190, but then coolant comes out the top when they shut it down. There is a thermostat in it. I'm to the point I'm going to go down get it, bring it home, and work on it myself. ERRRR!

I just had a 55 Dodge 230 put into my 40 Plymouth. The guys installing it say that there is flown the radiator and the water pump is working well, but still runs hot. Is it possible that the stock radiator is not enough for the bigger engine? Should I just buy a new aluminum radiator and see if that helps? They tell me its timed right. I'm getting the feeling this so called "hot rod shop" does not know what they are doing, and its pissing me off. Thats what I get for finally paying someone for something I should have done for myself. Thanks for any help getting her back on the road.

Thanks mack, love the rulers!!! Helps a lot.

Thanks guys, a lot of great ideas. Will put something together close with a few extra pieces of lumber to make adjustments when I get there. Thanks! HK: Hope to see your car someday at a show around DFW.

Thanks Don, I'll try it, should be close enough. Appreciate your time... Greg

Evening guys, I'm going to transport a engine with the transmission attached, and would like to build a stand to keep them upright in the back of the truck. I do not have the car currently, so I cannot get the measurements that way. Anyone have approximate dimensions of a wood stand I can build to transport the engine? If not guess I can lean it up against the side with a few bags of mulch. Thanks for any help and sorry for the silly question. Greg

Thanks Don, that is what I was looking for. Amazing the wealth of info on this site. Appreciate the help guys. Greg

Just wondering if the whole rear end dimensions are equal. There is a a rear end that fits a 46-48 p15 that I'm interested putting in my 40 p10 if they are basically the same dimensions and would fit. Hope that helps. Thanks Greg

Are the rear axels on a 1940 P10 the same dimensions as the rear axels on the 46-48 P15? Length and spring perch dimensions. Thanks as always, Greg

Is it possible the carb would work without that spring? I do not think I lost it as everything was on a small table together. Anyway ordered a few different springs, and if they don't work may try George. Thank Greg

Greg, Right now the spring is too short and does not keep it open( up). I think you are supposed to be able to push on the bar connecting the three plungers(?) and it should spring back up. Right now it just sits in the closed position. Hoping this other spring will help, as it is tough to find info on these springs. Might just break down and buy a new carb if this does not work. Greg

Going to try this one as I may have bought the wrong one. Carter Step Up Piston Spring - (OEM # 61-484) The one I bought was 1.35" length and .215 diameter, this one is 1.45 length and .225 diameter. Not sure It will make a difference, but going to try. Greg, if this does not work, going to either try those or just buy a new carb. Thanks, Greg

Im trying to rebuild the carburetor on my 1940 P10. Somewhere I lost the step up spring that goes under the piston. The one I bought from Quadrate parts does not work, as it does not pop back up. Anyone have a place that sells these. Also tried Mikes Carb, but no luck. Assume the carb is a D6A2. Thanks as always, Greg

Thank you gentlemen, I will try all your suggestions tomorrow to see if they help. Greg

Well not with the original setup. With the Stovebolts it came with its own coil(took that one out, when went back to original) Will try that. Does seem to be a heat issue, as it runs well till warms up. Thanks dp PS. Amazing how may cars and trucks you have, lucky guy.

Hi guys: Got my new 1940 P10 and she ran pretty good. Decided to put in Stovebolts electronic ignition like I have in my P15. Ever since that, she starts great, run for about 5-10 minutes, then sputters and dies. Let her cool a bit, then starts and drives for a few more minutes. I put back in the original ignition, and still does the same thing. Have searched on the website and tried some of the suggestions, but at this point Im frustrated and going nowhere. Anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? Don't think its a fuel or ignition problem, may rebuild the carb next. Like they say, if its not broken don't fix it stupid! Thanks Greg

Looking, but no luck so far. Frustrating. Thanks shel, looks like they are the same. Have a tanks inc in the 47 and has worked great, may try. Thanks as always for the help...Greg