meadowbrook

After slotting the lower adjustment bolts, do you just just rotate them (while the upper ‘minor’ adjustment bolts are all the way in) till you feel a slight drag , then remove the drag and then tighten the lower bolts. Then do you replace the drum and adjust the upper ‘minor’ bolts to get that slight drag again?

Hi folks, long time no chat. I was wondering if anyone is aware of a tool to do major adjustments on a 1931 Chrysler Imperial, which has a similar drum brake design as the Mopars of the 50s (except it only uses a single wheel cylinder) but has a much larger drum and brake shoe diameter. Any tips or workarounds would be appreciated. Thanks

Pm sent. Thanks!

Hi. Would you be willing to scan part KA-42? Mira supposed to be a king bolt assembly for a 1931 Chrysler Imperial.

Thank you, I may do just that. I sold the car to a young guy who loved cars of this vintage. I recommended he join this group.

To everyone, after many years I’ve sold my Meadowbrook. Too many projects. I enjoyed it while I had it and a big part was the sage advice from this group. Thank you and keep up the great website! Joao

Hi, my 50 Meadowbrook’s original engine broke piston number 4 and since oil pressure has been excellent and a measurement of the cylinder bores and visual inspection shows I can still use standard size pistons and the walls are glass smooth, I am only honing and replacing pistons and rings. I was able to remove the pistons by unbolting the bearing caps, removing the head and pushing the rods up. There was some resistance to pushing the piston up but they came out. I’m assuming there is a minimal if any ridge , and only carbon buildup there. Is there a measurement to determine the need of a ridge reamer? Any brand of pistons to avoid? Napa provides them .

Funny part, it happened on the highway and the only symptom was occasional smoke and a random clicking sound on overrun. I didn’t even feel vibration or a loss of power.

Hi all, so my 50 Dodge fractured #4 piston and so I pulled the head and pan and pushed out all 6 pistons. There is no scoring on the cylinders and the oil pressure has always been 45 to 50 psi at anything above idle and the rod bearings looked dark but no scuffing. So what are the opinions here on me buying new pistons and rings, honing the cylinders and with new rod bearings, reassembling everything? The engine has 80,000 miles. I’m not sure what fractured the piston, I think a ring broke as it was gone and some pieces are stuck to the piston. What would break a ring? Age? Is it advisable to replace valves or springs? Lap them? thanks, Pics attached

I just asked because I’m not sure the Chrysler engine has that much more power and I could more easily upgrade the 230.

Why?

Thanks so much for the responses. Sounds like it’s more trouble than it’s worth.

Mechanically, are the Spitfire engine components as available as the 230?

Hi. Would anyone know if a Spitfire engine from a 53 Chrysler bolt into a 50 Meadowbrook?

Hi. Long time no post. lookinh for tips on a quick way to fix this issue. My 50 Meadowbrook's original engine broke a chunk off #4 piston , which caused a loss of compression and a rattling sound. Otherwise the engine ran fine, go figure. Pulled the head and was surprised to see no damage to the cylinder wall. I guess aluminum is way softer than steel. Anyway, it's the same for all other 5 cylinders, no wall damage. My oil pressure has always been excellent, about 45 pounds hot at anything above idle. I was thinking of dropping the pan, removing the rods and pistons, honing and replacing with new pistons, rings and rod bearings. Is there a Wayne to hone and covering the bottom of the cylinder to keep crap from the crank? I saw an old shop manual that showed a vacuum hone setup to suck out the particles. A readon son I don't want to do the whole engine aside from cost is project creep. If I rebuild, then I'll paint the engine then I'll have to re paint the engine bay and the the car. It's a survivor so I'd like to avoid that. It has 85000 miles.