The vent windows should be the same and they do come out of the Inner trim piece. I PM'd you with my phone number. Give me a call sometime and we can work something out for me to get them. I have a couple of good heater fan switches if anyone needs one.
PM'd you. That's one of the nicest first posts I've seen lately but please do another with an introduction.Welcome to the forum. A lot of very helpful people here and a ton of info. Two most important words on the forum are "Search" and "Pics"
Waiting to get my welting feet in for sewing machine and have a question about the welting that goes between top of dash and inside front wintow trim. I just had a few scraps stapled to the steel trim piece. What size was it, how far up did it go and how would I install it as I sure can't staple it to the steel like the original. Maybe try and tack sew it on using the original holes in the steel. Help and photos appreciated.
What event in Charlotte ? I go to the Conyers area of GA every couple of months and only live a couple of hours from Wilmington, NC. Would that help ? How big a part ?
Miss going to that show each year. Mid 70's taking a customer's car down the night before show and snowing like crazy; 6 - 8 inches of fresh. Trailer tongue was sitting rather high on truck I was using. Only doing about 25 mph and slowed down for intersection and his car passed me and came to a nice safe stop in the snow. Never assume that someone else chained the car down or did it correctly. I just jumped in and drove away without checking it myself do to the weather. Oops !
Thank you gentleman. Didn't have cluster in but now I understand. I pushed the little red plastic piece out to the rear and cleaned and polished it so it should be good as new.
Appreciate the input. A few things I hadn't thought of and yes I did a search but didn't come up with this. Did have a fellow tell me that his father use to use a prewar Plymouth rim without a re and car on jack to raise bails of hay to hay loft usng the rim as a capstan.
Correct battery cables, check grounds, rebuild carb (easy), plugs, brakes and steering and drive it. Then start making it pretty. AND BAG AND TAG EVERYTHING you take off. Welcome and enjoy.
What was the whole idea behind the hand throttle cable ? It's not like the car has a pto and it makes a bad cruise control. Any real reason to keep it on the car ?
Thank you, thank you, Thank you !!!!!!!!!!!! I've been trying to figure mine out. Dash is going back in this weekend and then I will be sewing up my headliner.
I'll just add another question to this post. Is the Black painted area on dash that is inside the chrome trim mimicking the instrument cluster a gloss or a semi gloss ? Mine was far to gone to determine.
I like to use 4 mil plastic, spray glued to door as a weather liner between door and interior panel like the new cars use. I also noticed on the rear side windows that Plymouth had a tar paper deflector hanging inside the body that made water drip away from the interior panels. Maybe someone has a pic of that to clarify. Painted my dash yesterday and as soon as that is back in am starting on my interior also. Thinking about using the velcro method too.
The coil spring in photo 4 that seems to get wrapped around the shaft on a lot of these old speedos. Many people are sending this off for high dollar repairs and I have found a source for this spring. www.brattons.com Part number 23082 Waltham round mainspring @ $10.15 plus shipping. This is a Model A part but seems to be working OK. I can adjust the tension a bit better but it seems to be fairly close just out driving arround the block. The tension adjustment is for needle movement and return; does not adjust for gearing or tire size. I may also have a line on some replacement numbers for the odometer. Will let you know. If I can rebuild this unit then anybody else can do it too.
Did find a very coroded connection point with a missing screw at end of second resisistor and now have a functioning 3 speed switch. Defrost cable needs to be lengthened a bit to operate the heat/defrost control and have to come up with a temp control cable and a hose for defrosters. Possible old vacuum cleaner type hose or VW heater duct. The 12 volt Jap heater puts out quite bit of air above idle speed when generator output goes up.
The Samuri thing is totally irrelevent. Wired direct it works great. Just trying to figure out the connection point from factory P15 fan switch to motor as no connection is obvious on the switch, and yes I do do try to search for answers first before asking for help and if my first post wasn't clear enough for some people I'm sorry.
Don, I tried a search but short of reading every individual post I could not find anything. Ground is at the switch housing and one wire comes to that is powered and has a screw hook up point but I'll be darned if I can figure out where the hook up point is from switch to motor. I would think it would be at the end of the last resistor and the switch internals woul pick what voltage to put out but there is no lug/screw terminal and no obvious broken solder connection. As a point of interest I am using a 12V neg ground heater system out of a Suzuki Samari if I remember correctly and it puts out plenty of heat at the reduced voltage. The nice thing about it is it is an all plastic housing so wiring is not a problem. Still need to come up with some ducting to defrosters.
Am in need of the round cup that has the shaft on it that the spring and needle mount on. My shaft broke and it won' take solder. If anyone has one out of an old dead speedo please let me know.
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