JBNeal

Here is the wiper switch with the knob and bezel removed.  The bezel screws onto the switch body threaded shaft; the knob presses onto the switch split smooth shaft.  Pictured is the small screwdriver blade that I used to pry that knob off of that smooth shaft, as it is a tight fit that gets tighter when dirt accumulates up in there.  Ya might need to wiggle this knob back and forth while prying upwards, but don't get in a big hurry or go all HULK SMASH on this knob as it is pot metal...the first knob that I tried to pry off back in the 90s crumbled to chunks 👀

I found the FB listing in question and this picture has some details worth expanding upon.  Original color probably is that white hue on the firewall...if the back of the glovebox door is the same color, then more than likely that was the original paint.
 
The heater core appears to be aftermarket and the hacked appearance of installation and disuse is not a good thing...it's not a deal breaker as it's peripheral to the engine and can be addressed.  That carburetor looks cleaner than anything in the engine compartment, so maybe that's recent.  The head bolts have been changed to studs with chrome cap acorn nuts, maybe the engine has been gone through,  maybe not.  The missing rad.cap bothers me, that's easy enough to replace but that chore has been neglected.  That plastic fuel filter dangling in proximity to the exhaust manifold really bothers me, kinda tells me the engine has been re-fired after years of being dormant and the owner has lost interest and needs to pay bills before January...who knows what jive he's pushing to unload this beast.
 
The engine number is stamped on the block, and casting dates can be found on the block and head, directly above and below the distributor.  A build card would need to be procured to determine if the engine was original to the truck...a shortcut might be that if the truck title number and flathead engine number are the same, then maybe that flathead is original.  Modern VINs didn't appear until nearly two decades after this truck was manufactured, so the engine number was used on many titling documents...which can be a problem as back in the day there was a legitimate business in engine rebuilding and replacement to maintain vehicles longer rather than buying new vehicles. 
 
These flathead engines from 1951 onwards were basically the same, with changes in compression achieved by head machining.  Parts availability should not be an issue though more expensive than blue oval or gm of that era as Dodge accounted for  something like 10% of the truck market back then, so Dodges are rare compared to them.
 
The side-mounted spare was not a factory option until 1957 or so, definitely not on a C-1, but there were aftermarket kits available as well as many homemade versions found in the wild.  That spare was originally underslung of the bed, out of the way.
 
This truck looks to be a good candidate for restoration, but missing pieces, quick (sloppy) mods and its deteriorated condition are not causing me to drool over it.  If there's no title available right now, I would be even less interested.   If'n ya showed up with a trailer and 3k in unmarked bills in a paper bag, maybe that could close a deal, but more than 5k price tag is a deal that I'd pass on...these guys want top dollar from somebody who is running on emotion and don't like to haggle with someone armed with knowledge.  I like to save a relic from the past from an unfortunate fate, but I don't wanna end up in the poor house reviving a basketcase 

@Rlopera44
How'bout posting a picture of the parts that you are describing so that knowledgeable gearheads can wrap their brains around what you're a-lookin at, for some context 🤔

additional information - heater core catalog

https://p15-d24.com/topic/54196-newbie-needs-help-with-brakes/?do=findComment&comment=579082

This may or may not help:
 
Flywheel ring gear could be 146 or 172

•fuel pump splash shield:  that large hole lines up with the fuel pump sediment bowl,  mounting holes should line up on frame raol and cross member
 
•distributor splash shield:  the non-flat piece mounts on steering gearbox frame stiffener and frame rail

I did some work on the Autolite EWH-4001 wiper motor awhile back, but had to put that on the backburner until I had some spare time to put together a complete article.  In the meantime, I dug up my notes to see if there were any revelations that could be helpful.
 
This wiper motor is considered a shunt DC motor, read up on that topic on the internets for some fancy splainin as to what is going on there, it's interesting material.
 
The shop manual schematic only shows the wiring from the wiper motor assembly to the wiper switch.  I sketched up what the wiper motor assembly wiring looks like; this may or may not help with diagnosing problems.
 

 
The wiper switch itself has a 8-amp circuit breaker, that's the contact contraption on the back side of the switch.  I had a switch with very dirty circuit breaker contacts, so I cleaned them like breaker points on a voltage regulator, and that helped, but not entirely, so I switched to another similar switch that was in better shape and that kinda fixed some functionality problems with the 1st wiper motor I was rejuvenating.  That's about where my work needs to pick back up.

additional information - column shifter adjustments

While removing photobucket pics from posts on here and replacing them with pictures stored in gallery albums, I noticed on several threads issues with mounting fuel tanks, with the mounting hardware, with tank to cab seals, and with replacing with the Tanks, Inc. W-series reproduction as it is quite a bit cheaper than the B-series reproduction or using the Gas Tank Renu service.  So I consulted the parts manual, which raised more questions as to what that book said and what contributors on here said (including myself).  Now that I have a better understanding of what's going on, I figured that I should document my findings for future information searches done on this subject so that there is little ambiguity on this subject.  Special thanks to Brent for verifying the B-4-D-126 tank mounting ?
 
According to the factory parts manual, there are several variations on fuel tanks for B-series trucks, but I'm only going to focus on B, C, and D express and chassis cab models.  Panels, chassis and cowl, and export models have different part numbers than the express and chassis cab models, and I do not know what the differences are other than that.  Basically, there are 4 different rear mounting brackets used on 2 different tanks with 5 different mounting configurations for the 9 different frame designs.  The parts manual, as usual, only shows one configuration (B-1) as a general guide for parts replacement.

 
FRONT MOUNT
On B-1, B-2, and B-3 models, the front of the fuel tank mounts to the crossmember, with bolts threading into weldnuts on the fuel tank.  Shown is a fix that I did when the weldnuts stripped out and/or broke off, leaving just a hole in the tank mounting flange to run a bolt through before the tank went off to be Renu'd.
additional information - B-series fuel tank comparison

 
On B-4 models, the frame and fuel tank were redesigned so that the mounting bolts with the frame flex springs were located on the front of the tank.  These springs are slightly different than the rear springs used on earlier models and have different part numbers in the parts manual.  However, the parts manual appears to have an error that lists the bolt spacer as 15/16", when these appear to be somewhat shorter.  But this a minor issue that can be dealt with at any well stocked hardware store or an online source if replacements are required.

 

 
REAR MOUNT
On B-1 and early B-2 models with 108" and 126" wheelbase, mounting bracket 589572 is used with frame flex springs.

 
On later B-2 and all B-3 models with 108" and 126" wheelbase, mounting bracket 1269979 is used with frame flex springs, as there was a change to the frame design.

 
On B-4 models with 108" and 126" wheelbase, the fuel tank was mounted directly to the crossmember.  The parts manual notes that mounting bracket 1269979 is used, but I believe this to be in error as the profiles do not match up.
 
On B-1, B-2, and B-3 models with 116" wheelbase, mounting bracket 589571 is used with frame flex springs.  (yellow line added to highlight bracket profile at frame)

 
On B-4 models with 116" wheelbase, mounting bracket 1393998 is used.  (yellow line added to highlight bracket profile at frame)

Note the two larger holes in the foreground crossmember; these are the mounting holes that are used on the 108" and 126" frames, as this crossmember is located closer to the transmission.
 
Tanks, Inc. has offered their W-series replacement tank since about 2012, and in recent years has provided some support with making this work in the B-series.  moparpro has recently offered a replacement B-series tank that is based on the original design, but apparently with modern metal surface treatments to resist oxidation.
 
There has been some debate about the installation of frame flex springs, both in usage and material composition.  Modern zinc plating alternatives are cost effective improvements over the original unplated springs and hardware; deviation from that is a personal choice as performance gains here can be negligible period.  Removing the springs can be done if truck is under light duty on improved roads, but I have a parts truck without these springs and that metal tank has an oil-canned surface from presumably a rough service life...skip this little design element at your own peril.
Sealing the cab at the tank filler neck took several forms in the B-series, with 3 part numbers listed in the parts manual.  B-1s used a foam rubber piece on top of the tank; early B-2s used a different style; and later B-2s, B-3s, and B-4s used a simple piece of rubber over the filler neck inside the cab.  Since few people will see this detail, use whatever remedy you feel comfortable with to keep out the dust and critters, I won't tell the nitpickers

Spiffing up these canisters is fairly straightforward, but it’s important to be patient, clean thoroughly, and pay attention to the details.  The cosmetic restoration would be meaningless if the filtering functionality is lacking.

The T-handle for the lids houses the bypass check valve, and I have found that a #1 Phillips-head screwdriver can be used to clean out the passage and move the check valve for cleaning.  This handle also holds the perforated dome in place with either a hex nut or a speed nut.   This perforated dome has two sizes, depending upon whether the lid has a raised handle opening or a recessed handle opening.  Both require an appropriately sized soft copper gasket.




 




Note the original orientation of the brass fittings before removing.


Removing the brass fittings can be done carefully by using a spare flare nut to keep the brass from deforming.  Hold onto that canister like an uppity teenager in a headlock, and the fittings should unthread.


With that bottom fitting removed, the inlet flow restrictor can be seen.  On two of my canisters, I could see a glob of goo in the flow tube, so I used my long shaft #2 Phillips-head screwdriver and rotated while working it back and forth, scraping the tube walls of crud, and was able to dislodge and remove that goo and rinse it thoroughly with aerosol brake cleaner.


I wiped down the canisters with parts cleaner, and sure enough, on the 45JC and a 49JC canister, I found specks of yellow flakes in the area where I expected the DELUXE decal to be.  But the paint was in such bad shape, I was not able to save any sizable remnants.  I removed the tool rest from the bench wire wheel buffer and was able to clean up the surfaces well.  After cleaning with Dawn like them parts were a slicked up duck, I could see OUTLET stamped in the 49JC canisters but not the 53JC canister; the 45JC canister, not so much.  That’s when I started to notice some differences in the lids.  Apparently, my 45JC lid did not get the corporate info stamped into it that day.  And the lid that came off of the ’49 was unlike any of the others I have as it calls out a different gasket.  Lids either have a raised center hole, or a recessed center hole.

 

 


I painted with Rustoleum rusty metal primer and gloss black, as I have had good results over the years with these coatings being durable and not fading too badly from heat.  Original decals for the 48JC and 53JC cansiters line up relative to the center of the outlet port and the center of where the clamp bolts in place.  On canister 1504092, the clamp and decal switch places.  On the 45JC canisters, the faint stamping of OUTLET appears to be so that the decal will place closer to the port so as not to be blocked by the clamp.

 

 

 

 

that oughta buff out

It has been a long three years of exasperation and discovery, but after 2 master cylinders, 10 hydroboost units, 4 power steering pumps, 2 steering gearboxes, 7 brake hoses, 17 brake calipers, 4 hub assemblies, 4 wheel speed sensors, a proportional valve, a salvaged hydraulic control unit, and a refurbished ABS control module, the QuadCab has taken several test drives in 70°F+ weather without any ABS warning lights.  The brakes are not perfect yet, as the ABS light came on during a short drive, but that was coupled with a momentary herky-jerky movement in the steering wheel, which might be air in the hydraulics after hydroboost #10 was installed.  This underscores the balancing act of the power steering and power brakes needing to be kept in good working order with quality components so that both aging systems can function properly.
 
As cooler weather had arrived, it became apparent that the power steering pump was groaning almost non-stop, so I opted to replace it under warranty.  Pump #3 was short-lived, as it blew out on a trip back from Waco, leaving remaining power steering fluid with a burnt odor.  Once pump #4 was installed and system flushed, hydroboost #8 began to fail, presumably from the burnt fluid degrading seals.  Hydroboost #9 lasted about a week and began to have issues, and upon removal, it was clear that the input shaft seal had started leaking.  Hydroboost #10 seems OK but the brake pedal does not snap back after being released, which it was able to do the first few test drives, with pedal return taking about a second to complete; #9 was taking almost 2 seconds to return after release.
 
I was still getting the ABS warning light, so eventually I found a mechanic that actually knew how to work on this truck, as the local dealership and 2 prominent repair facilities basically shrugged in ignorance of such obsolete technology.  We spitballed ideas on how to deal with the odd readings he was getting on his scanner, especially while taking a half-hour test drive.  I mentioned to him that both front hubs have been replaced twice, as dragging replacement calipers were heating up the hub sealed bearings to the point of cooking the grease that would purge out, making them difficult to rotate by hand, and that this high heat could possibly have fried the wheel sensors I replaced in 2018.  This possibly explained some of the live data readings, but the storing and clearing of default codes by the ABS module was confounding as neither of us had seen this before.  I surmised that the module had bad components that were leading to this erratic behavior, so I found a nearby outfit that could refurbish the module.  With the refurbished module installed, no codes were stored on the first three test drives.
 
About 40 hours of work have been done on this ol' buggy in the last 4 weeks...that puts the tally to well over 200 hours work in the last 3 years, with less than 50 hrs being to replace components, and the remainder to replace defective components under warranty.  That's a LOT of time spent doing the same tasks repeatedly, while other projects have been put on hold.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I have done enough work to get this to pass inspection in February and to have a functional ABS for the remainder of my usage of this machine...had a close call with a UPS truck the other day, which underscores the lurking risk of getting T-boned by an uninsured motorist

While doing an audit on my attachments to update some picture albums, I found some questions that were asked that seemed to have some conflicting information in these two threads:
 
This reminded me of some conflicting information that went on about shock absorbers that I cleared up awhile back, so I decided to see if I could find some clarity for this little hood bumper detail.
 
The first thing to do was to crack open the parts manual, finding information on hood bumper part numbers, as well as bumper locations on COE hoods and radiator baffles.  Studying this information, I found several points to ponder:
Effectively, there were 3 hood bumper part numbers, with a serial number break on the B-1 models. From the part descriptions, there appears to be hood bumpers for all COE models that are also used on B-1 and B-2s. The B-3 and B-4 models that moved the hood bumper from the radiator baffle on the B-1 and B-2s to the lip on the hood have a different part number, and quantities are listed as required across the board. The B-1 and B-2 radiator baffles had different part numbers for trucks larger than the 1-tons.  
But the parts manual has some conflicting information here when comparing part numbers in Group 15 - Hood and Group 7 - Cooling.  The radiator grille illustration clearly shows 4 bumpers in this baffle, but the hood bumper part numbers show quantity 2 for almost all B-1 and B-2 models.  Since I do not have a truck larger than 1-ton, I can only go on the picture posted by Bradley S. that shows that more than likely the larger trucks have the 4 holes shown in the parts manual, as the dozen of baffles that I have only have 2 hood bumper holes.  I also have never laid eyes on a COE hood, so I'm guessing that its size warrants the use of 4 hood bumpers, even though its parts manual illustration only shows 1.
 
Next was to gather dimensions on what hood bumpers (or evidence thereof) that I have.  The hood bumpers all mount in 1/4" holes, but vary in diameter in B-1s and then by height when moved from the radiator baffle to the hood lip on non-COEs.  It appears on one of my early B-1s that the hood bumpers were about 5/8" diameter (Mopar 846797), then the later B-1s increased to 3/4" diameter (Mopar 985563).  The thickness appeared to be about 1/4", but them crusty old remnants were obviously pancaked, so I'd guess they were originally in the 3/8" thickness range.  These two part numbers are so close in size, and with no change in the baffle they mount in nor the hoods they contact, I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that the latter number should supercede the former number.  As indicated earlier, the Mopar 995066 hood bumpers were 3/4" diameter, and a hair over 1/2" thick.
 
So I followed up on some part numbers I found here and there, and apparently NAPA carries replacements:
Mopar 846797  --  Mopar 985563  --  BK 6652262
Mopar 995066  --  BK 6653122
 
Roberts "fat" hood bumpers and DCM hood bumpers are apparently only for the B-1 / B-2 / COE hood bumpers, not the B-3 and B-4 models that their descriptions allude to.  BK 6652262 is a hair over 1/4" thick, whereas the BK 6653122 is about 3/4", dimensions I verified since an area NAPA had both in stock.  Roberts "thin" hood bumpers look very much like BK 6652264 (also available locally), and are only about 1/8" thick.  I've updated the parts manual listing to reflect this clarification.
 
This may or may not help

FOR SALE: nice truck bed trailer with custom bumper, but looks like there are parts o' plenty available from this seller. Maybe y'all left-coasters can duke it out for this stash

FOR SALE in the Land o' Lincoln...looks like an "easy" finish.

FOR SALE: low-side bed in Californee...any takers?

anybody want some super-rare bed accessories ?

I was doing some research during another cold'n'rainy day and noticed some OT content on one of my build threads.  Looking at four of my build threads, only one had content that stayed on topic, and two others had significant OT content.  I have reached out in the past to participants when they went off the rails to remind them that they were going OT on my build thread, in each instance I was summarily blown off and told that was how the internet works.  At any rate, the only way that I can see for a thread originator to control content on a build thread is to report posts, but I get the impression that is generally frowned upon as it puts a burden upon moderators on censoring members.  Is reporting posts the only way to control content, or am I missing something?

FOR SALE: looks like a B-1 with a B-4 low-side bed...but this turn signal looks to be located so as to be operated by the driver's, um...knees?

How'bout this li'l gem...anybody up for the challenge? It even has the optional hood ornament, heater & rear bumper!

FLUID DRIVE EMBLEMS

FOR SALE in Minnesota...looks like a good candidate for a Spring Special clone.

This may or may not help: 
 
https://www.townwagon.com/powergiantregistry/display.php?serial=1360136797
https://www.townwagon.com/powergiantregistry/display.php?serial=1160120133

So it looks like I found the feature I was looking for...instead of inserting the URL of the gallery picture, I insert an existing attachment...
 
and from the next pop-up window, I can choose Post Attachments or Gallery Images...
from either choice, the window populates with all attachments or images that I have saved to this site, and there is a search engine in this window to assist...
I can now organize pictures in albums and use the search function in the pop-up window
So it looks like I can move forward with getting away from photobucket and moving images onto this site ? 
The next challenge is dealing with memory space allocation...