JBNeal

VINTAGEPIC: saw this tanker on the tarmac on the FB

Horn installation tip: It may be easier to connect the wiring to the horn terminals before bolting the horn to the firewall bracket. On the B-1 and B-2, that hood support brace is right where ya want to stick your head during installation, which makes putting a backing wrench on them terminals a real stretch. Also, might be easier to slip the horn back onto that firewall bracket if the outer hexnuts aren't fully torqued down as shown:

rcvd this email today

Starter contact switch should be able to be removed without pulling starter...remove batt.cable and wiring, should be two slotted round head screws attaching switch body to starter body...if contacts are dirty, shine'm up a tad; if worn badly, replace; if arcing present, contacts need to be adjusted, as they are not fully mated when switch bottoms out.

Put a torque wrench on the crank nut; if it takes more than 80 ft-lbs to rotate, ya might be having an engine problem 👀

VINTAGEPIC: saw this tanker with the interesting turn signals on the FB

my research was focused on parts in my possession and listings in the factory parts manual...this originally started by noticing a change in the radiator cap sizes between a '49 and '51 1-ton trucks and kinda snowballed...if it's not detailed in the factory parts manual, then I'd just be guessing as to what those tail-end letters represent.

additional information - radiator identification for non-pressurized systems

👉 Marvel Mystery Oil 👈

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this Pilot-House headed up the street over on the FB

With MMO, you can skip the non-ethanol gasoline...I did a price comparison of non-ethanol vs 87octane +MMO, and it's a dead heat, but ya get the fuel stabilizer benefit of MMO. Chrysler flatheads have hardened valve seats, so they run fine on modern gasoline...skip the lead additive and invest in MMO instead 🏆

for years, I ran into the problem of gasoline and diesel engines big and small struggling to start after extended periods of disuse, and this would drain batteries and cook starters and elevate operators' blood pressures. Then one day I was reading the MMO label as it had changed packaging a little bit, and I was reminded of MMO as a fuel stabilizer. Since I started putting it in the tank regularly, engine startups are quick, batteries are lasting longer, and working on starters is not an almost annual chore. So nowadays, I purchase the 32oz bottle of MMO annually as the container is graduated but the caps wear out, and the gallon jugs as needed to refill that bottle...tell your friends!

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 hauler parked on the FB

If ya let MMO sit in the combustion chamber long enough, it'll probably get into the crankcase...so whatever the instructions say to add to crankcase, put half in the engine oil and the other half in the combustion chambers, and let it sit for a couple of weeks...then spin the motor with ignition off to work whatever fluid remains along the cylinder walls, then see if engine will start.

MMO in the crankcase oil could be a magical experience...follow the instructions, **abracadabra** problem solved

That contraption does not look familiar, maybe it was an aftermarket kit that could be had at Western Auto or JC Whitney back in the day. The original drum brakes suffered in performance if they were not adjusted correctly...this doohickie might be trying to compensate for that, kinda like turning up the heat on an arc welder rather than cleaning contamination from the base materials.

vacuum brake assist was not an option on the B-series...I'd definitely like to see that setup to figure out where it came from, who knows what all has been done to customize that buggy over the last 7+ decades

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this C-1 in the parking lot over on the FB

link to helpful repair information link to replacement parts link to useful vendors link to useful videos