JBNeal

VINTAGEPIC:

spotted the tail end of this Dodge on the FB 

Because of my back, I have certain limitations that I need to recognize, not only in lifting heavy objects but in working positions.  As nice as the QuadCab rides, I start having issues after 45 minutes that I need to make adjustments...a few years ago I made a couple of trips to West TX that were about 600 miles apiece that about wiped me out.  The Laramie rides way better, so much so that I have made several weekend trips up into CO, 1700 miles round trip, sometimes twice a month, without any problems.  One return trip turned into an odyssey that detoured into KS, stretching that into a 15hr marathon that left me mentally fatigued but without lingering effects the next days.

The big difference between them two trucks is the seats, as the QuadCab has effectively a split bench, but the Laramie has vented bucket seats with adjustable lumbar and seat angle...firm but comfortable.  I recall several squarebox chevies and my old D250 having bench seats not much better than the B-series buggies that were over 25yrs older.  The QuadCab seats were finally a big improvement in truck seating when they debuted, and the ensuing generations have gotten even better, making these long road trips tolerable for us hobbled goobers.

SURVIVOR:

saw this big B-1or2 outside Fountain CO back in March 

Last August I exported a Californian and her 4 cats from TX to CO...why yes, it was because her ex was getting out of prison...that was a very long trip, but ultimately worthwhile 🏆

VINTAGEPIC:

saw another Airflow tanker on the FB 

VINTAGEPIC:

spotted the tail end of this Pilot-House on the FB 

additional information - Fuel Pump Block-Off Plate

additional information - flathead identification 

VINTAGEPIC:

saw this Panel on the FB 

VINTAGEPIC:

saw this B-3 Panel on the FB 

VINTAGEPIC:

saw this C-1 at the fillin station on the FB 

I believe the 12 volt flatheads had a different flywheel than the 6 volt flatheads in number of teeth on the ring gear, there may be an issue of the different flywheels having different planes for the ring gear itself, so starter engagement could be an issue.

VINTAGEPIC:

saw this big C-3 tanker on the FB 

a cautionary tale of the Farmall 1206

during the refurbishing of Dad's 1966 Farmall 1206, I had flushed out the block several times to get crud out, using a coolant flush and a garden hose each time.  A few months after this tractor went back to work, an area of paint blistered on the side of the block about the length of my index finger, then eventually a coolant weep was observed after hours of use.  The attempt to weld the crack failed, and eventually the block was replaced as there were several local donors available at the time, with the original engine guts transferred to the replacement block...alotta cussin and discussin went into that venture, as the mechanic who did the block replacement defied instructions and rattle-canned the replacement block to match the rest of the shiny tractor, getting red overspray on black hoses and white sheet metal.

After it was all said and done, Dad commented that the tractor never had a serious problem up until the original injector pump failed and I fixed it up nice, and that it ran strong for decades with rusty sheet metal and half-rotted and chewed up wiring...he went on to add that I had flushed that engine one too many times.  He went on to tell the story of a neighbor who bought a Farmall 866 at an auction that ran well but was absolutely filthy...so one winter, that neighbor decided to clean up that red tractor, and come to find out all that dried up gunk and grease was plugging up every leak on that workhorse, and the guy had a time keeping fluids in it during planting season...so the guy never cleaned it again afterwards so the leaks would plug back up with dust and grit.  "Now ya tell me" is what I was a-thinkin after that tale had been shared 🙄

VINTAGEPIC:

looks like a big '57 at the loading dock over on the FB

In the factory parts manual, there is an optional 195°F thermostat, so I reckon that the massive flathead castings can absorb a fair amount of heat.  Using that infrared thermometer is a good approach to determining if ya have a hotspot or hot block.  Your crankcase oil is also considered a coolant so check that as well.  When I drive my flatheads in the triple digits, the temp gauge will crest over 200 but not for long...haven't spotted a hot spot yet.

VINTAGEPIC:

saw this '39 Dodge on the FB 

additional information - heater core catalog

additional information - heater core catalog

here is an example used from '51-'53...the electrical circuit is not exposed like '48-'50 units and has an improved mounting bracket 

I am in the process of putting together a write-up on refurbishing Pilot-House 6V wiper motors, as these are not too difficult but there are a few details that can be frustrating if overlooked.  Of note is a leather seal on the gearbox that takes some skill and patience to replace, as well as indexing the crank arms, re-soldering the electrical connections, and replacing critical rubber grommets...stay tuned...

I saw this pop up on the FB recently, and was interested to see that oil filter element inspection was a thing at service stations back in the day.  I remember Grandma's '87 Diplomat stating to replace the oil filter at least once a year, and to change the oil at least once every 5000 miles...so I reckon the annual oil filter change was a thing for awhile, before the industry shifted to the play-it-safe mentality of change your oil and filter every 3 months or 3000 miles,  whichever comes first.

VINTAGEPIC:

saw this B-1 and C-1 on the FB 

VINTAGEPIC:

saw this big B-4 double parked a li'l close on the FB 

additional information - steering gearbox rebuild parts

additional information - fluid coupling rebuilding