D25_Owner

Thanks for the pictures Rockwood! I found the car on the local Craigslist. I was told the previous owner shipped it here. He started taking the car apart to restore it, then he passed away. The car was in pieces and sold by the estate. I don't think the engine is original, it is a long block and based on it's current & bore stroke (3.438 x 4.250), it works out to 237ci. The cylinders were bored by a machine shop to their current size. I don't know what they used to be.

Hello folks, It's been a few months since I posted progress on my D25 that many of you have been helpful with. Now I'm preparing to install the engine & transmission. The drive train was disassembled with many missing parts when I got the car. I'm not sure if I have all the parts I need or where some of the parts I have are supposed to go. If anyone has an exploded parts picture or any visual reference to the brackets & linkages for shifting rods, park brake & clutch etc., I would greatly appreciate a look. I searched here, the web and my service manual but no luck so far. Thanks for any help. Dave

Fun pictures. I worked for the City of Las Vegas for a few years and had full access to the photo archives. Vegas became a city in 1911 and that's about when the photo library started. More neat stuff than there was time to look at.

Try a local driveline shop. I have paid $45-$95 for cut & balance.

Robert, I lightly painted the machined area, kind of like Rockwood suggested. I covered the studs and stuffed the ports. I put a very light coat of of oil around the outside of the ports, then sprayed just enough paint (high temp) to cover the machined area that would be visible after the manifolds were in place. After the paint dried, I cleaned around the outside of ports with a little paint thinner on a rag. Quick and easy...looks good and I don't expect I'll have a sealing problem.

I made some progress on the 237 today. I need to find/read the thread about clocking the oil pump & distributor. I should have the engine finished tomorrow, then I'll start cleaning & painting the engine compartment and underside of the car. After that I am going to do the body & paint.

I believe it's OK to paint manifold mating surfaces. I think it's better to use high temp paint. I guess Fel-Pro Blue gaskets don't like Paint. There's a warning on the package "Paint can prevent the gasket's sealer from chemically bonding". I'm painting the same areas on my engine today. I going to cover the studs, stuff ports and try to keep less around the mating surfaces if I can.

Most of the reading I have done on valve train installation has the valves & springs going in first, then cam & lifters second. There must be is a logical reason but I'm not sure what it is. Seems if you put the valves & springs in first, you would have to hold up every valve to get the cam in. If the cam and lifters are already in, you would only have to rotate the cam every few valves to get the lobes pointing down then install the valve & springs. Am I missing something? Thanks!

The car came with the lid, but no canister. I have an aftermarket canister from an old '37 chev project that I could use if possible. That chrome lid happens to fit perfectly and looks quite a bit like the one in your picture. What are some visual differences between a full flow and a bypass arrangement? Dodgeb4ya & James, I think you are right about the flywheel bolts, as I have found six of them (long block).

Externally, the block & ports don't look exactly like the one in your picture (note the lower brass fitting angle). Perhaps mine and the one in your picture are the same in function? I'm not sure what's happening internally with the routing of the oil galleys. I don't have a filter/cannister yet.

Thanks for the horn picture Bob. Looks like I've got everything I need for that. Don, do you know where the oil relief piston goes? Does it use a spring? Bolt 'A' is a little small for a con rod bolt. It's about 1-1/4" long. part 'B' is 2.43" long and .56" OD. Does anyone recognize the part pictured below? It looks like a temp sender and it's about 8-1/2" long. I ordered a shop manual that should be here in a few days. I'm also trying to find a parts book for reasonable. Thanks to everyone for the assistance. This is a great forum.

Ding! Ding! Correct! I didn't think of a wrist pin. I compared it with the old pistons/pins (forgot I had em') and sure enough that's it. It's 'B' that is cracked though. Horn insulators...I guess you stack them for a spring/flex action? I also have what looks like a temperature sending unit/probe, it's about 8-1/2" long. I can't find an orifice the deep enough for it to fit into. (did I just say that?) anyway, it has single electric terminal on the end (broken). How long is the temp sender supposed to be on the flatheads? Thanks!

I have a few parts that came with my disassembled D25 that I'm not sure what they are or where they go. Perhaps someone might recognize them. 'A' bolt with a round head with one flat side, I have a couple of these. 'B' plain round tube/cylinder (has a fracture/crack in it). 'C', same as B but bigger. 'D' seems to have some hydraulic function. 'E' I have no clue. Any help appreciated.

Thank you Jim for the link. I saved the PDFs and I have been reading them today. Thanks to everyone else for the responses. I ordered a 46-54 Plymouth service manual. I think a parts book with exploded diagrams would be most beneficial, but they are a lot of money for the couple pages I need (engine & components). There are some cheaper one but they say that many of the pages have been removed to reduce the cost. Problem is there's no telling which ones. I'm going to take a picture of a few parts that I'm not sure what they are. Maybe someone here might recognize them.

It's a long block for sure, 25 1/2" head. I bought a head gasket (Fel-Pro 7688C), it fits perfectly. The applications listed on the package are: Chrysler 6 251,265 Engine 1951-54 (Canada) Dodge & Plymouth 6 230 Engine 1951-59 (Canada) Dodge Truck 6 251,265 Engine 1960-68 (country unspecified)

Yes, it is the long block 237,251,265. The car is Canadian, I'm still not sure about the engine. The engine's ID stamp is P24, it also has the extra water hole, bump in front, I think that makes it Canadian and or newer than my '48 D25. FWIW, it had the bolt on rubber main seal (no rope). I know it's currently a 237 because of the measured bore & stroke.

I am putting together an engine for my D25 (237ci). The crank, rods & pistons were installed by a machine shop, other than that I have a big box of parts and a gasket set. I have rebuilt several engines before, but never a mopar flathead. I have searched the forums, looked at pictures and found a few parts I would have never guessed what they were (like the oil crossover tube). Anyway, I think I would benefit from and exploded engine diagram and an assembly manual. I have seen them for sale (online) but I'm unable to thumb through them to know which would be most helpful. I may also need help with plumbing and linkages etc., since I did not see how it went together in the first place. Can anyone recommend a good manual(s)? Thanks for any help.

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Thanks. Sounds like this one got left out. I guess I need to pull the crank to install? I really need an engine & parts manual.

I am finishing putting together an engine (237) that a machine shop started. Looking at the rear main seal, I noticed there are three threaded holes in the block that look like they may be for a half-seal or something. Also, I can not see the block-half rubber main seal. Perhaps this is normal or how it's supposed to be, but I'm not sure. My car didn't come with an engine so I have no reference.

The bore is the same on the 237,251 & 265 @ 3.438". So, a 251 crank (4.5" stroke) would make a 237 a 251. A 265 crank (4.75" stroke) would make it a 265. Yes?

Any one know if the short-block (23") starter and generator will bolt/work on the long-block engine? Thanks

Thanks Norm! Now I know my engine is Canadian and or '51 or newer