48 New Yorker

I'm guessing when the solenoid ground got wonky, it used the headlight switch in the "off" position for the ground....or just gremlins.

The ammeter did register a discharge when the lights were turned on. Think I found the issue. While taking the above posted photo, I moved the brown grounding wire from the solenoid back and forth for picture clarity. Now the starter engages with the lights on....perhaps a corroded connection? I'll clean it up and hit it with some dielectric grease. Thank all.

Several years ago when I switched out the generator for an alternator, I added several additional grounds between the block, body and frame. I grounded the brown starter solenoid wire to the block, also ran a ground from the starter housing to the frame. see photo. Of course, now I have to be mindful not to accidentally hit the starter button when the engine is running or it will grind. BTW, I attempted to start it w/headlights on while pressing the hi/low beam switch just to see if it made any difference....it didn't, still didn't crank.

I agree with BryanG and Hickory....the search for the ground path thru the headlight switch begins. Here's my wiring diagram with the modification of the alternator. Brown grounding wire from Gen has been removed from diagram. Highlighted in correct wire code colors, are the starting and headlight circuits.

Lots of reasonable possibilities, which I will pursue. Plymouthcranbrook, you are correct, the issue is a matter of curiosity....while I'd rather not have the issue, I do enjoy the "detective work" to figure it out... The wiring is original, and with one exception is stock....(previous owner installed a "rube goldberg" switch on the steering column to activate the backup light....light had been removed when I got it, but the switch remained. Sniper may be on to something.....in the distant past, I removed the ignition switch and may have mis-wired it on installation...usually don't make those mistakes, but the code stripes are very faded...will have to peel back some tape to trace. Also considering the effect of replacing the generator and voltage regulator with the alternator and built in regulator. If I recall, there was a brown wire off of the generator/voltage reg. that prevented the starter from activating if the button was pushed while the car was running to prevent starter grind.

My ’48 Chrysler New Yorker has a strange starting problem. The starter will not engage/crank when the headlight switch is pulled to on position -- I don’t mean slow cranking with lights on — it doesn’t crank at all… with the lights on, pressing the starter button does not dim the lights. With starter button depressed and lights on, the starter won’t engage — switch the lights off while depressing the starter button, and it fires right up…the headlight switch in the “on” position acts like a kill switch. When the lights are off, it easily fires right up every time. Battery is fully charged, battery cables are sized 2/0 (made from welding cables) and the generator has been replaced with a 6 volt alternator with internal voltage regulator — external regulator removed. Other than the headlight/starting issue, it starts easily and runs great. Any clues?

I recently installed a complete system from Waldron's on my 48 New Yorker. It was quiet to start with, and as I've put miles on it's become a bit quieter....probably as a result of carbon build up. Tends to mute the noise/vibration. Here's what it sounded like after I took off the old system; before installing the new one......straight outta the exhaust manifold...

Stargrinder: Glad you were able to replace your bulb.....IMO, the biggest risk is disturbing the brittle wiring, which can crack off (if original). You may want to check the wiring after a while to see if road vibration may have shaken loose some of the insulation, exposing bare wire. If so, you can do small touch ups with a few layers of Plasti-Dip and a brush.

Sniper: Thanks for the part number on the Stant locking gas cap (10491). I was able to locate one at Summit for $11.99.....it just arrived, fits well and it is as pictured below, metal not plastic. I'm happy with it, but noticed the bottom edge of the stamped metal cap is kinda sharp....I'm going file it down a bit to avoid a grab'n slice.

All the pistons on my 48 New Yorker are stamped with "STD", indicating the standard bore. Do they come stamped this way from the factory as originally built, or are they replacement pistons (in a standard size bore)?

Sniper: Now why didn't I think of that.....my parts manual is sitting right in front of me....duh. Was just using it to check the assembly of my hand brake. Good call.

Does anyone have a recent part number for a locking gas cap....(not non locking). Not looking for an NOS, but a new off the shelf cap. Gas at $5.00+ brings out the siphon creeps. I've looked all over the web and this forum for a part number for a locking gas cap for my '48 Chrysler New Yorker 8, but haven't found any info. Also tried Burnbaum and Roberts, the Stant and NAPA websites as well as the other usual suspects..... no locking caps. Thanks.

Dodgeb4ya: I noticed you are in WA....my car was delivered in '48 to Carter's Garage in Centralia WA, don't know who the original owner was tho'. Would love to get my hands on a New Yorker business coupe.....but alas, I have no room for another toy.

DodgeB4ya: I've also read that the Stromberg was '46-'47 only....so why does my '48 have one? -- unless it was installed post purchase (unlikely). I wrote to Chrysler historical for some documentation (punch card and correspondence) and received the following below.....at any rate, I"m grateful for the 5 extra hp. ps: Maybe I have one of those oddball "Monday morning" builds..... my vin tag says "Desoto Division.....wha !! ??

Hello Keith: Both the 6 and 8 remind me of an old radial engine biplane starting up..... a mechanical symphony. I have 2 additional straight eights, a Buick 248 and 263 which "burble" through their mufflers at idle and are different sounding than the Chrysler. If you view the original "Topper" w/Cary Grant - 1937, the custom bodied car has a great exhaust note, probably due to side pipes and a minimal exhaust (if any). They used a Century/Roadmaster chassis with a 320ci straight 8. If I could locate a 6V electric exhaust cutout, I'd be very temped to install one in each of the 8's. ps, Really like your vids, I've used them to diagnose some of my own "gremlins".

Dodgeb4ya: Perhaps the extra 5hp is from the 2bbl Stromberg?

It's bone stock rated at 135hp, with the 2bbl Stromberg carb....not exactly thrifty on gas...

I've replaced the exhaust on my New Yorker, but before buttoning up everything, thought I'd listen to the sweet open exhaust. Kinda reminds me of an old Chris Craft...(which also used Chrysler 8's, among others). The slight rap/squeak sound is a failing water pump...also soon to be replaced. see video link below

Bryan & kencombs: I think you both are on to something. When I first got the '48 (years ago) it ran hot. I discovered the water distribution tube had rotted out toward cyl. 7 and 8....so,(with much effort) I replaced it. Still have more thinkin' to do to figure out this puzzle. BTW .....wondering if the wire loom (see stock photo- not my engine) could cause ignition "flash over" causing a misfire. All my wires are copper core and sound, but still, they're all bunched up in that encasement.

A few years ago, when I had the head off my ’48 New Yorker 8 cylinder I noticed that #1 and #8 pistons had a heavy layer of carbon scale buildup — the remaining pistons had much less. Compression is low, but even for all 8 cylinders...(possibly to stuck rings), and none of the plugs were oil fouled, but sooty… (See pics below) Question: What would account for the greater amount of piston top carbon buildup on #1 and #8 only? Kind of goes against logic if #1/8 have the leanest mixture due to their distance from the carb.

One other thing to consider, after you've done your "starting upgrades" and you can get it going reliability, is to replace your battery cutoff switch IF it is a "green knob" or blade type. I recently installed the blade type and found it severely restricted the amps to the starter. You may ask, "But many people swear by these"....which is true......the difference?.....many are on 12v systems that don't generate the amps a 6 volt does, therefore there's not much amperage loss. IMO, the proper battery shut off switch is a Cole Hersee 2484 A Master Disconnect Switch

Thank you Bryan, that's just what I needed to know. Just a guess..... perhaps they used a smaller muffler for 2 dr coupes and converts due to the shorter wheel base and needed a resonator to keep things quiet.

I’m replacing the exhaust system on my 48 Chrysler New Yorker 4 door sedan - 8 cylinder. The current exhaust I’m replacing, is not OEM, so I can’t use it as a guide. Does anyone know if the original factory setup for a 4 door sedan consists of a muffler and a separate resonator (as I’ve seen in a few photos) or does it use a muffler only - with no resonator? I’m wondering if the resonator + muffler setup was used on 2 door and convertibles only….and not the 4 door sedan? Anyone know? I’ve seen both setups in photos and would prefer to go with the muffler and resonator for my ’48. Again, I’m looking for info for an 8 cylinder, not a 6 which may be different. See pics below Thanks, David in Santa Cruz

Just wanted to pass along something I discovered today (seasoned members probably already know this). My 48 New Yorker had been sitting outdoors for about 3 weeks since it's last start. Tried today to go for a run.....crank, crank, crank, no start.....shot of ether...nothing. Popped the cap off and stuck a piece of heavy stock paper between the points and made a few "wipes", revealing slight smudge of something (?) on the paper, then...presto - fired on the 1st rev. Kinda surprised at how quickly the points became disabled (they are about 2 months old)..... Could be due to some blow-by, (I've installed a factory style pcv valve + closed breather to air cleaner and plumbed in an oil catch can to mitigate). And, although we got some well needed rain during this period, my hood doesn't leak and engine stays dry.

Wagoneer: Finding an idle orifice tube in a different size may be a "toughie".... I just found a Stromberg manual on line (below) and it lists the carb as only being used until '47 (although my '48 came with an AAVS-2 from the factory...probably a leftover or special order). If so, this is a bit before Chrysler was doing PCV retro fits which is why there may be not tech info on it. If I can't resolve this on my own, I might try giving Mike's Carburetor a call for some advice...(where I purchased the rebuild kit). I'm attaching a link to the Stromberg manual should other's need it -- the pdf is too large to attach here. The individual AAVS-2 chart page is attached below https://www.carburetor-parts.com/assets/manuals/stromberg-seriesaa-manual.pdf