PatS....
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Everything posted by PatS....
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Here's what was under about 20+ big garbage cans of mouse droppings, leaves, dirt, junk, crap and corruption: The headliner and seat are now out and most of the loose "tar" on the floor is gone...some remains but it's stuck on good and I'll leave it. Some repairs to be done in the front floor, but very minor compared to some on the forum who have no floor at all!!!! Once you get this done, you're off on an adventure. Maybe find a residential garage for rent in the area, then you can pop over to work on it anytime without upsettin' the yuppies.
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Also to drape your overcoat on, most people were dressed up back then when they went out...no jeans and t-shirts back then. They were called Robe Ropes up here
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My '49 Chrysler was in similar condition from sitting outside for 30+ years. I am redoing it in a RENTED garage. After you rip out the interior and clean everything up, the task does not seem so daunting (use a mask...hantavirus) The fact that the body is virtually rust-free makes it a shame to part out. Relatively easy restore/recondition/redo/reroad/ whatever word you want. You can do it...we'll help.
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I can't see a problem just using 4, that's all the later unit uses, even the M6 only has 4. Do the 4 line up OK?
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James, Not sure where your problem lies but this bellhousing formerly mated to a 3 speed FD: Here's the corresponding surface of the M6. Although I have not physically placed one against the other as yet, I don't see a problem. The whole thing before dismantling: Hope the may help.
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THINK YOU CAN FLY A HELICOPTER ? Read directions first before you start....must hold left clicker down to go up...release to go down...ADDICTIVE! Some people have worn their finger out on this. If you are working for a living, do not forward to your co-workers.. The rest of the day will be useless to the company.. Think you can fly a helicopter? Click on the link below and give it a whirl! http://www.hurtwood.demon.co.uk/Fun/copter.swf (1145 for me)
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Just a what-if question. The front clip seems pretty involved for an amatuer. What would be involved in using the Dakota frame complete and swapping the body onto it? Seems simpler to weld some body mounts to the frame and shape some sheet metal floor sections over spots where it needs it. Just thinking out loud...sort of:D
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I was looking at my forelorn engine still on the engine stand naked on the bottom:eek: and I thought about the oil pick-up and how it is sort of hinged to move up and down a bit. Could that be your noise? The oil pick-up rattling as the engine revs? Maybe the screen is a bit plugged and the oil pump is sucking it up and down looking for oil?
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Anyone with an early 50's master parts book?
PatS.... replied to James_Douglas's topic in P15-D24 Forum
My Canadian parts (Issued May 1950) book which covers the S13 lists the tan spring for the 9 1/4'' clutch w/fluid drive (part # 866591). Also used on the D29 & D30. All Canadian cars had the 25 inch block, the Canadian built S13 had displacement of 236.6. My '49 Chrysler with FD would use the orange spring. (It has the 251) Hope that helps a bit, James. -
"I usually use my bench mounted wire wheel to launch parts." Norm, I thought I was the only one
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I agree...thanks Don. My grandfather died in '72 at the age of 84. I was only just 17, so I didn't get to know him as I now wish I had. He won first prize in a square dance competition at the Calgary Stampede just 6 weeks before he died. Great guy, and tough as nails.
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Seems like a faily loud ticking noise coming from this old power wagon as it's crossing the rickety bridge in this video. Is it the same ticking that yours has? Maybe it's perfectly normal. It's been a very long time since I've heard a flat six run in person but this old PW sounds normal to me. Kinda like a heat riser in a '70's 318. Hope you don't miss the trip. I'd be there to help if I was in the same country
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Just my opinion, but you already have the best front end you can get for your car! Disc brakes are a snap www.rustyhope.com Parts are readily available to rebuild your front end as are parts to rebuild the box. Thousands cheaper than a clip.
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Not hard to figure how long THIS one has been in it's spot!! http://www.flickr.com/groups/51301759@N00/pool/
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Looks like it's just melting into the ground http://www.flickr.com/photos/beginasyouare/419299407/in/pool-51301759@N00/ Page 1 of 1200 pics "Old,Rusty and Corroded" http://www.flickr.com/groups/51301759@N00/pool/
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Dave, no casting date, but there is a rebuilders tag from a Calgary dealership from 1951. Only a few hours on that rebuild...inside looks good. No trace of any colour other than the silver you see in the pics, engine number boss is blank, no evidence of anything ever being stamped there. The engine was truck mounted to run a snowblower which was parked inside for 40 some years.
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Help! what year is this Desoto pilot house Tony?
PatS.... replied to Lee Exline's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
With the exhaust and oil pump, wouldn't the steering box have to be positioned further ahead than the US model? Hence the steering column angle being different. -
Our gov't vehicle inspection only lasted from '69 to '71. They discovered that 98% of the vehicles that went through had only very minor things wrong. Also, vehicle failures accounted for almost zero accidents here. One look around finds almost nothing on the road here older than about 85, so I don't think excessive emissions is a problem here. The old inspection building is now the gov't surplus sales center. You'd think Hybrids would get a waiver for the emissions inspection BS to encourage people to buy them
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Obviously downsized auto executives...and one idiot:(
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That was good, Don Probably more true than we care to know.
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Nice rig. Does that fellow sell just the plans for the teardrop? I have never seen a sunvisor like that before, what kind is it?
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I am using an industrial from a truck mounted snowblower. It came with a downdraft manifold and the front mount is different, the oil pan is front sump, but everything else is identical to the car engine. There is no engine number on it, just a blank spot. Maybe I will stamp in the number from the original engine. Then I have a "numbers matching" car worth many times more than would be otherwise!!!
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And if George can't help out, I got mine from Moore's. Good outfit to deal with. http://www.mooresautosalvage.com/parts.asp
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And another related site...6500 pics!!! http://www.flickr.com/groups/rusty_old_cars/
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Well, about 4 yrs ago I paid $1500can for a '49 Chrysler Royal Coupe that sat for 30+ yrs as well. Interior shot, motor shot but body relatively rust-free. So, I'd say under $1500. Way under. But you have to decide what's right for you.