jd52cranbrook

I figured Marc would chime in here. The purple has bored and stroked 5.0 with a bit of nitrous. The silver had a Paxton Supercharger, 10 lbs of boost, headers etc. Both had a final drive ratio set up that was great for 1/4 and street, not the greatest on freeway. Both very quick, the silver turned low 13's consistently. Not bad for 3.5 V6 I could beat Marc's when he was off the bottle, but not when on, although it was very close.

Hmmm, when I bought the car it had only one (rusted) switch, on the passenger side only. I was able to purchase two on Ebay, have not seen them anywhere since. I remember asking the seller for more and he was out. Can someone show me a regular one? Thanks

Where I can get dome light door switches like these???? I found one for the passenger side, but would like to install them on the rear doors too. Already have the wires run. I find other styles, but these are NOS I believe, and they fit into the hinge. Again, thanks in advance, JD

Hey Marc, didn't know they allowed Plymouth Prowler Owners in here, ,,,, And thanks, see you in mid August Road Warrior is a old buddy from my Kat days. This is his purple, and my spectra flair silver One of the drawbacks of the Prowler was the V6 engine, people said they were underpowered... These two were NOT underpowered,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

That might not be a bad idea Pete, but do the studs completely fill the void in the head so it cannot slip around? In any case I re torqued the head, and put another 1/2 turn on the hose clamps of the lower radiator hose, and WA LA, no bubbles. I admit only about 50 miles of driving yesterday. But not even a hint of a bubble in the recovery tank so far. If I do pull the head once again, I am going to make a sleeve for one rear center bolt opening, and one in front of the thermostat housing to eliminate any chance of movement of the head. If I remember right there was a pretty significant slop in the bolt hole openings. If the bubble issue does not resurface I am going to leave it as is. I don't think its a great idea to keep taking the head off and putting stress on the block by pulling on it so frequently. Thanks for all the advice everyone.

Yes he did do the block. My mistake on not leaving the head with him.

Looks like great stuff, especially for new fuel lines.

I thought of that too Norm, but what if the head is already off line? I am considering the options Tomorrow being Sunday I think I am going to wait on pulling the head and do when I'm suppose to be actually working,, lol,, (don't tell my customers that, ) I will re torque, check the hose fittings, then take it for a drive. This car has sat long enough during this fine summer here in Calif.

Now that I think more about the washers it makes a lot of sense. Will take care of it tomorrow also. I really dont like pulling the head again as the stress to the block bolt holes. But I think it's what I should do.

No I did not use washers. Guess that would be a option also. I do plan on re torquing the head tomorrow when cold.

Hey all, I've had the new, (rebuilt) engine in for about two weeks now. Last weekend was really the first time I took it out on the road. Had a few problems from the start, well one in particular. I am running a recovery system on the radiator, with 7 lbs cap and 50/50 Antifreeze. I noticed right from the get go I would see bubbles in the system coming through to the recovery tank. At first I didn't think much of it, thinking the system was just burping itself. But it got worse, so bad it would increase with higher RPMS. It would look like a small pot of boiling water to me. I had advice to put a smog sniffer in the recovery tank just to be sure it was compression air, which I was suspecting. Thing is, the night before I did that I went to diner and at the parking lot it was just to obvious something was wrong. I talked to my engine machinist, the one who suggested I try the smog sniffer. He reminded me he never had the head in his position to check for level. Ah HaI thought. I pulled the head, the gasket just didn't look right to me with some not really clean breaks, but just maybe some smears between cylinders and water jackets. So I had the head check and surfaced by him, seems it was level between cylinders 2-4 but the two outside ends curled up a bit. This is a Earl Eggerton head I ran last year before rebuild, and I just didn't think to give the head to the machinist as he said when I showed it to him in the beginning "this thing is too pretty to keep on the bench, someone could walk off with it" I took him to heart and brought it home with me. Anyway, long story longer, I had it surfaced and I put it back in the car. I know I am also paranoid now, but no or very little bubbles came initially. We took the car for some longer runs at about 70 degrees at night, 80 during the day. I get some bubbles at times, nothing like before, but like I said now I see them with my eyes closed. Tomorrow first thing I am going to check the hose connections, as my ace mechanic girl friend, (I'm not kidding, she helped me rewire the car to 12 volts last year, installed AC, and has been a 50-50 contributor the performance and looks of the engine and car), showed me the manual that stated the hose fittings could be tight enough not to leak, but still loose enough to let a small amount of air in. Question is,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, is there acceptable amount of bubbles???????????? Any help, advise, insults would be greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance, JD

Nope,, tossed it. That would have been the smart thing to do. I did keep the inside piece though. The gauge end seems smaller by just a tad. I will crawl under and look more tomorrow.

I bought a new one from Kanters I believe (will have to look for receipt to be sure), finally got around to putting it in. It seems the threads on the gauge end don't match cable end. Fit on the tranny fine. My original broke right where it goes into the tranny, outer housing and all. Anyone aware of differences betweens makes before I go back to who sold it? Mine is a P23. Thanks in advance, JD:confused:

Good info Marty, thanks for posting this. I have Webber/carter carbs, as far as I know there is only one ported outlet on it. The Offy intake has two holes to use for vacuum if one wants to. I will be out tomorrow to check. I only have a few more items on my check list to complete before the car goes on the road., like putting in the front seat again some other minor stuff,,

After reading that link through the first time, I'm inclined to stay with the manifold advance. (Further study needed) Then run it on my G Tech for results.

I ran last summer same set up as you have now, and ran hall the time with the vacuum at the manifold, and the other half on a single carb port, (out of a dual carb set up). But I did not advance as much as Langdons said. Ran fine to me, but I have to admit I have lost a bit of hearing over the years, and can't pick up pinging too well it seems. I also had not gapped the plugs as wide as they suggest. Now I just dropped in my rebuilt with a 230 crank, mid level cam, pistons, the works. It should be on the road by the end of this week, as I did some sound, AC, and rewiring work on the car too. I do intend to set the settings as prescribed and start from there. I have 4 weeks to get it tuned in well. If you get any good experience with yours please share it here.

My comments awaiting approval also. Guess I should have left out those $$$%^@ words,,, Good job Pete, your continued effort to provide information is much appreciated. JD

That is very nice,, Will be contacting you shortly.

This may shed more light on the subject. http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=012242

Back, Now that I think about it, I did hook up the vacume on the carbs. I went back and read Langdon's instructions. It's been so long (for me anyway) since I pulled the engine I forgot. I did use the manifold vacume to set the mixture on both carbs, (that's a guess too, but I do think I remember that part,)

I ran all last summer this way. Langdons instructions were to try combinations and see what worked best, also to start off with the carbs vacuum plugged. I have not had time to try the different combos. By the timing light it advanced perfect climbing to wot. I am waiting for the shroud to be cut before re installing the radiator then will have time to mess some more with it. I have to work today , but when I come back I will post Langsdon's instructions.

Thanks Bob, yes thats them.. I didnt know the body tag was generic,,

I am porting directly from the intake manifold. The Offy intake has two openings that I can remember off the top of my head, Carb vacume ports are plugged. I will take pics tomorrow to post of the line. yes,, 2x2 from Langdons

Hi, thanks,, I have both, but both need redoing....

1. Anybody know of someone who restores the two name tags in the engine compartment? I know one has the serial number so it may be kind of tuff. 2. I read awhile back about someone recommending 30w oil in gear boxes because of the different shape gears compared to the rear end. Does anything have to be done to the tranny to make that change? Thanks in advance. JD