JerryinTx

I will blow out the hose tomorrow AM. Although I replaced the hose, it's been sitting awhile. I do have a California Duster and use it frequently. I always worry that I'm grinding grit into the paint with it though. Not true?

Sounds like a reasonable solution. Thanks!

Yes for the rollups, which do not leak, and also for the rear quarters, which do. Windshield and rear window still do not have mouldings on.

I replaced all the glass in my P15 awhile back. Had a local glass place install and used Steele's rubber. Bottom line is I can't even wash my car without some water getting into it. The worst place is the rear quarter windows, which do not fit tight at the body interface. Also a little gets through where water puddles in the lower corners of the windshield. My cowl vent is also not watertight even with a new gasket. At this point, the interior of my car is pretty spartan. The back seat is out and I've got 2 coats of POR 15 on the floor, so wiping the water out with a towel is no problem. However, I'm getting close to finishing up the interior, and I sure don't want it wet. Thought maybe after the car sat out in the hot sun a few times, the rubber would expand and seal, but no dice. Has anybody used 3M adhesive to finish the job? And what should I do about the cowl vent? Gasket came from Steele also!

Took my P15 out for a 15 mile cruise today. Uneventful, and the new goatskin boots on the U-joints are still holding with just leather-glue. 71 degrees here, so it was extremely pleasant! I have a good 4 inches of play in the steering, but it's not the end of the world. Not gonna pull that box yet. As long as I can keep her between the lines.

Those engine sounds are very enticing! A Mopar flattie sounds great stock, but the enhancements make the sound even nicer.

Small world! Yes, it's still there. I have an aunt who still lives there. I'll have to ask her if she knew the Harzels. Bet she did since she has lived there all of her 91 years! BTW, my P-15 came from Hico. It was originally sold at a dealership in Glen Rose.

If you want to see a really old filling station, here is my grandfather's in Hico, Texas taken c.1929 My father is the kid just to the right of the far left "pump". Wish I knew what vehicle was sitting in the shade behind them. Can just make out the hubcap.

We had a storm blow through this morning and after it passed we were left with clear blue skies and 75 degrees. Having finished up on the u-joint boots yesterday, my wife and I took a nice, long drive through the old parts of town where I grew up 40+ years ago. We got lots of waves, thumbs ups and smiles. I look forward to many such drives in the car. Gotta get on the interior next. Still no back seat, headliner or floor coverings, but she's rust free and clean. Got Duck tape holding the front seat together.

Yep, you got it right. Need to punch the holes prior to glueing. Thanks for the tip about the leather punch. Your visors look real nice Norm!

Today I got the leather boots on. Making a pattern took some trial & error, but in the end, they fit very well. If anyone else needs to do this, I'm keeping the pattern & would be glad to share it. For now, I'm depending on the contact cement to hold these things together. I got some waxed leather thread and a curved needle, but the pigskin is so tough, I was afraid I'd compromise the glue joint trying to force the needle through. May sew them up later. Gonna let it dry for 24 hours before driving. One more time, thanks to this great board for a workable solution!

James, thanks for the details! Think I'll try it.

OK, I gotta get them covered back up soon. Where to get good rubber ones or laceable leather? Roberts doesn't have the leather ones anymore and some have had their rubber ones last only a short time. Any help is appreciated.

Did you make your own Robert? Wonder how much could you drive a car without the dust covers without damaging the joint components?

While my P15 was up on a lift last week, I was walking around below inspecting and noticed that the rear universal joint boot was totally gone. Made a mental note that it needed replacing, and then today I was cruising down the road at 60MPH and heard what seemed to me to be a catastrophic noise coming from under the car. Pulled over and crawled underneath, finding that the front dust cover was torn and flailing the floor pan. Are both of these dust covers the same? Parts book lists the same part number for both, but they look different in the exploded diagram. Just did a search and found a lot of discussion on here about lace-up leather replacements. So far, no discussions on how long they last.

You guys are all making a lot of sense here. And after hanging out here for the past 7-8 years, I respect what you have to say more than a local mechanic. Think I'll go back to 6 volts and beef up the wiring.

Thanks guys, I'm going to get the beefed up cables regardless of when or whether I go back to 6 volt.

Congratulations on getting it done! Sometimes these cars take a lot of hard-headed commitment.

So I need to beef up the one to the starter too?

So the tabs were it back then? Ha! Thanks Tod. All of my cables are brand new and contacts are clean. The one from the starter to the solenoid is a 1ga. and the wiring to the genny is whatever Rhode Island supplied with the new harness. Only kicker may be the "0" battery cables. It just never has turned over that well, even in warm weather. I'm still getting charge at this point.

Just went out and tapped on the VR cover a few times, got in and started the car. The ammeter is now showing a charge! We'll see how long this lasts.

Had a thread a couple of weeks ago about converting to 8 volts and shortly afterwards the ammeter would not show a positive charge. Replacing the voltage regulator solved the problem only temporarily, as the 2nd voltage regulator apparently blew last night after only 1 day of driving. Mechanic blamed the 1st one on low quality replacement part with only a tab adjustment instead of a screw. Didn't charge me to replace it. I'm about ready to go back to 6 volts and maybe get some "00" battery cables. I think I'm running "0" now. Having the car crank like a new one sure was nice, but this is getting old. Anybody know why this would keep happening?

Sorry Steve!!! It was you who had the vr ready for 8 volts. If my new one goes out, I will be calling.

Just to let you guys know, a new voltage regulator solved the problem. Don, sorry I did not read your post before my mechanic ordered one.

I hammered mine out, filed, sanded and polished them. Took a lonnnng time, but they look good I think.