John Nickell

The red and cream car is my dads car. The pictures are from my wedding. Part of the drip rails on the back were shaved to make a cleaner transition. I added one more pic to try and show the height of the rail.

For the past six months my parents have been working feverishly to get my dad’s car done in time for my wedding Saturday. The painter they worked with was a nightmare but they pulled it off. Here are a few picks from a guest of the car. The professional ones will be done in two weeks. Let me know what you think. If it weren’t for the help I’ve got from this forum I know it wouldn’t have happened, so thank you for making such a special day even more so. Thanks, John

Okay been looking hard at finding a part number. Easily found the pinion shaft for a fluid drive but with strut syncro (of course). I also found a part number that is listed in the attached picture as pin type pinion shaft for a 1955 transmission. The picture lists these parts as "main drive gear" I believe this is the same as the pinion shaft that I am looking for. I don’t know what the letters in the parentheses stand for though. At collectors auto supply inc.(here) they have this part number listed as a standard transmission front pinion shaft for a 1953 v8, 19 teeth and 15 7/8 inches long. This seems plenty long as the strut type pinion shaft for the fluid drive is only 13 11/16 inches long. Len Dawson doesn’t have this part number listed. Just wondering if anyone sees anything I don’t to determine if this is the part I need. It looks as if the strut and pin types over lapped from 1953 to 1955 so the part I am looking for should be out there. I think if I knew what the letters next to the year meant in the picture it would help a lot. Thanks, John Link to bigger picture: http://www.collectorsautosupply.com/DODGE%2049-56%20FLUID%20DRIVE%20TRANSMISSION.jpg

That had crossed my mind as well, but I believe Pete's longer input shaft was from a v8 application not a fluid drive.

Just to let you know, I feel I have done a good amount of searching the forum before posting this question, so please bear with me. I also didn’t want to highjack another recent thread. I recently purchased an overdrive transmission from a 1955 Plymouth. I think according to the year that this should have a pin type syncro, is this right? PF is stamped into the housing; does this indicate a pin type syncro? I would remove the plate and look for myself but it is currently at my dad’s house and I can’t. This transmission will be going into a ’48 dodge with fluid drive, so I will need to change the short input shaft currently on the overdrive to a long input shaft for the fluid drive. Does anyone happen to have a parts number for a fluid drive input shaft with pin type syncro? The pin type syncro is the newer type, I believe, so will I need an input shaft from a “newer” fluid drive car? I think Young Ed said this is what he did in his dads car so hopefully he can help me out. Also where would be the best place to locate such a part? I have looked at some of the NOS suppliers from the main site and I think they might be able to help after I get a part number. I think James Douglas will be able to help with this part, but what are the essential things that need to be examined in the overdrive unit before installation? It will be apart to install the new input shaft so this should be a good time to do a visual inspection. Does anyone sell kits with commonly worn out parts? I know a lot of people on here favor the try it out before tearing down approach. Is there anything to do before putting it in the car to ensure it will work, at least for a little while? Thanks, John

According to this video from their website it can. http://www.muggyweld.com/1clip4.html

I think this is the one he wanted. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temperature_(meat)

I am looking at replacing the fuel sender in a ’48 dodge. I found from previous threads that the original units had a resistance of 10-90 ohms. The universal chrystler units on JCW have a resistance of 10-78 ohms, and the GM units have a resistance of 0-90 ohms. My question is which to choose. What will be the effect of having a sending unit that as too low of ceiling vs. one with too low of floor? Will the chrystler unit just never read fully empty? Would the GM unit be worse for the guage since its resistance lies outside the opperating window of the original guage? Thanks for your time I look forward to your replies. John

I think the web address above should be www.carsandparts.com. John

I ordered this one for my dad and he adapted it to fit in the original spot for the oil filter on the side of the block. I think all he had to do was widen some holes to allow things to line up. I really like this setup because you can put an auxiliary oil pressure gauge right on top of the housing. I will see if I can walk him through sending an e-mail with some pictures attached. John http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=MOR-23760&N=700+400105+115&autoview=sku

One page of that pamphlet states "If the plunger stuck closed, the pressure would go high..." So it makes sense that a stiffer spring would cause the oil pressure to rise. Am I right? John

Would the heavy duty spring cause the higher than normal oil pressure? If so where can a normal strength spring be found? John

I have already posted this in the “wanted car parts” section but thought it my get a little more attention over here. I am looking for the squirrel cage fan for the heater of a 1948 dodge D24 sedan. Any help with this is greatly appreciated. Thanks, John

After getting my fathers flat head started we noticed that there is a pretty substantial oil leak from the top of the oil filter canister. It appears that the oil is making its’ way through the hole that the bolt at the top of the holder goes through. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem and how you fixed it. If I remember right there is a gasket that came with the new filter that is placed on top of filter. This was replaced with the new filter so we don’t think this is the problem. Any ideas that you have are greatly appreciated. Thanks, John

Hey guys thanks for the responses. I will have my dad talk to the rebuilder about the starter. As for the coil and resistor setup the coil does have a resistor in line on the ignition side and it was hooked up correctly. I understand that the resistor should get hot, my concern was mostly that the coil was also heating up as well. It got to a point where it was too hot to touch. I will check the voltage you suggested and get back. Thanks again. John