42D22

I am also lucky enough to know the original dealerships of my C38 and D25 up here in Canada. I can't find any information about either one though, maybe someone here may have some info. I even have the original service agreement dated in 1948 for the D25 with purchasers name and address

Any chance a pair from a 4-door will fit?

So... I took the spring off and reinstalled half a turn less than the 335 degrees specified in manuals. 167.5 degrees. Flops down to 3 o'clock when I put some heat to it and then slowly back to 12 when cools down. And opens with a blip of the throttle, didn't move at all before. Aftermarket springs are too tight I guess.

I got the heat riser to work. used a 3/32' thick washer for spacer, fabricated a bump stop from old stuff kicking around the shop, and installed new spring (L442 from AB). Wrapped counterclockwise 335*. Seems very tight even when hot. Is it supposed to be tight or kind of floppy when hot?

Good to know, thankyou. I will be putting a whole new kit in when I put the new motor together over the summer. Swapping it in next winter. Just getting the old one working for now. I see the rebuild kits at AB, but they are unfortunately only for the 23" block.

Going to try to get my heat riser operational again. I have a new spring and can fabricate a new bump stop. I am missing the spring spacer, part #644876. Would anyone happen to have the dimensions for this part so I can make something else work. TIA

Ready for Easter Sunday. Winter projects done. Time for spring. Rebuilt rearend all new brakes MC to wheel cylinders, new kingpins and bearings.

Trying to get mine together for March 31st (Easter Sunday). Two steps forward, one step back

Machine shop says he has 0.035 depth between top surface of piston and surface of block at TDC

Is there a minimum and maximum clearance between top of piston and top of block at TDC? Nothing in any of my service manuals. Machine shop called asking for spec. Thank-you

Nevermind, I figured it out. Need to read ALL the words in manual.?

Which is more important? Pinion shaft endplay or draw tension. Adding and removing shims to get the proper 15-25 in/lb draw tension but then have zero end play of specified .0015 - .002. Torqueing nut to specified 175 ft/lbs.

That makes sense. Thankyou. First complete teardown and rebuild of a rearend. Checked out Keiths Garage as well, good video. Thanx

Am rebuilding the rearend in my 48 Chrysler. (Trying to have it operational for March 31st Keithb7) Pictures in shop manuals all show the oblong hole in the diff thrust block vertical (exploded view). Thrust block in diff now has oblong hole horizontal. Which way is correct? Thinking someone may have been into the rearend in the last 76 years and might have put it in wrong, or shop manual pictures are wrong, not sure. Thanx.

Just overthinking things again, I guess