42D22
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Everything posted by 42D22
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Any chance a pair from a 4-door will fit?
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So... I took the spring off and reinstalled half a turn less than the 335 degrees specified in manuals. 167.5 degrees. Flops down to 3 o'clock when I put some heat to it and then slowly back to 12 when cools down. And opens with a blip of the throttle, didn't move at all before. Aftermarket springs are too tight I guess.
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I got the heat riser to work. used a 3/32' thick washer for spacer, fabricated a bump stop from old stuff kicking around the shop, and installed new spring (L442 from AB). Wrapped counterclockwise 335*. Seems very tight even when hot. Is it supposed to be tight or kind of floppy when hot?
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Good to know, thankyou. I will be putting a whole new kit in when I put the new motor together over the summer. Swapping it in next winter. Just getting the old one working for now. I see the rebuild kits at AB, but they are unfortunately only for the 23" block.
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Going to try to get my heat riser operational again. I have a new spring and can fabricate a new bump stop. I am missing the spring spacer, part #644876. Would anyone happen to have the dimensions for this part so I can make something else work. TIA
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Ready for Easter Sunday. Winter projects done. Time for spring. Rebuilt rearend all new brakes MC to wheel cylinders, new kingpins and bearings.
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Trying to get mine together for March 31st (Easter Sunday). Two steps forward, one step back
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Machine shop says he has 0.035 depth between top surface of piston and surface of block at TDC
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Is there a minimum and maximum clearance between top of piston and top of block at TDC? Nothing in any of my service manuals. Machine shop called asking for spec. Thank-you
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Nevermind, I figured it out. Need to read ALL the words in manual.?
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Which is more important? Pinion shaft endplay or draw tension. Adding and removing shims to get the proper 15-25 in/lb draw tension but then have zero end play of specified .0015 - .002. Torqueing nut to specified 175 ft/lbs.
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That makes sense. Thankyou. First complete teardown and rebuild of a rearend. Checked out Keiths Garage as well, good video. Thanx
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Am rebuilding the rearend in my 48 Chrysler. (Trying to have it operational for March 31st Keithb7) Pictures in shop manuals all show the oblong hole in the diff thrust block vertical (exploded view). Thrust block in diff now has oblong hole horizontal. Which way is correct? Thinking someone may have been into the rearend in the last 76 years and might have put it in wrong, or shop manual pictures are wrong, not sure. Thanx.
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Just overthinking things again, I guess
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Good to know, thanx. Have new bearings and both shafts are new. Just don't want to get it all back together and installed just to have it pile up when it gets hot. Had to rebuild because countershaft had broken tooth on first gear.
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No way that the output shaft could bottom out inside input shaft?
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Thanks 9 Foot Box, that's exactly what I was looking for. Any chance that you could post pictures of the rest of the pages of your shop manual on the transmission rebuild? Seems like yours has other information that mine do not. Thank-you
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Going to start putting my 3-speed manual transmission back together, (finally rounded up all the parts). I have the end play specs for the countershaft and second speed gear, but am looking for the specs for the input pinion. Adjusted by the thickness of gaskets on bearing retainer. I've looked in all my shop manuals, Clymer, Motors and factory ones. Cant find it. If anyone has that measurement, please let me know. Thanx
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Thanx keithb7.. I'll give him a call this week. Will be in Vernon for swap meet on Friday, I can swing down to Kelowna and drop off the parts.
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There was mention in a thread a while ago about a place in Surrey BC that relined brake shoes. Looking for the name of the business. Am wanting to get my hand brake relined and also a couple of clutch discs. I had brakes relined at an outfit in Kelowna about 20 years ago, but they are no longer in business. Thanx in advance.
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I guess I should have laid underneath and had a good look before asking the question. It is about the only way to do it. Easiest anyway. Just don't want to damage anything inside fluid drive.
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Hello, I need to take the transmission out of my '48 for rebuild. I would like to leave the fluid drive unit attached to engine,(less meat and weight to move around under car). Is this ok to do or is it best to remove the entire unit? Wondering if any damage can be done to fluid drive pulling the transmission out and down. Thanx in advance.
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Good to know. Thanx for the input. I did know that there were exhaust valve inserts in the flatheads, but was unaware that they would be hard enough to withstand the lack of lead in the gas. Thanx again.
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Ok. I was under the impression that hardened valve seats weren't used until lead was banned in the 70's. If that is the case I will just stick with the higher octane fuel.
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Looking for a good lead substitute for the old Chrysler. Any suggestions?
