Scott Knecht

Thanks guys! I discovered the factory replacement should work available on Rock Auto. It was for a 96 and my rack is a 94 unit. I believe the difference was because of body style and not the attachment point so fingers crossed when it shows up.

Howdy folks. Question for those running the Cavalier racks in their rides. Where can one find the coupler necessary to attach the steering shaft to the rack itself? I can’t seem to locate a replacement and all the yards near me are bare of any 80’s- 90’s Cavaliers and their counterparts. The shaft out of the rack is a 5/8” double d with a recess for a pinch bolt. I can find no one who makes a 5/8” u-joint that isn’t splined.

I’m replacing the rear in my ‘48 Plymouth with a ‘98 Grand Cherokee unit. It’s a Dana 44 with limited slip and 3.73’s and will handle a good amount of power from my engine swap. Flange to flange it’s the same length. Just have to remove the old link suspension brackets and make some leaf spring mounts. Plus it’s an immediate upgrade to disc brakes. But I’m also upgrading to front disc as well.

Thank you!

Got it. I thought about the clip route but given my limited time and budget I’m probably going to stick with the stock control arms. I was just brain storming and eye balling things yesterday and came up with that thought of S10 spindles. After some thought I do believe the Ackerman would be way off. I’m probably just going to use the Scare Bird kit to adapt the S10 calipers on Ford probe rotors after I rebuild the stock control arms then get the rack installed and try to dial out the bump steer. Thanks for the input!

Hello fellow gear heads. I’m new to the antique Mopar world. Been a GM guy since the early days. So sorry. Lol. Anyway I just purchased a ‘48 Plymouth 2-door sedan for a rat rod project. I’ve been studying intently the subject of installing a rack and pinion. I understand the center tie rod take off rack is the way to go. My question is, has anyone ever contemplated modifying the control arms to accept reversed S-10 spindles? Only asking because I have a few sets laying around. The way I figure, you’ll get an instant drop of about 2” plus the ease of installing disc brakes. Wouldn’t be too hard for a competent welder to make the necessary mods to the control arms to accept the S-10 ball joints. Just need re-drilled rotors if you want the 4-1/2” bolt circle. I’m just not sure about the whole bump steer situation with reversing the spindles side to side to locate the steering arms to the rear... Like most hot rodders, I’m on a budget.... I’m married after all. Haha! Thanks in advance for any advice!