Bryce Mcclintock

Haha not the first time . Thanks ill get a dial gauge from someone and find out

Oh dear this sounding expensive

Can i replace this bearing without taking crankshaft out?

So i have all pistons out of plymouth everything seems to be fine but the crank seems to me to have a lot of end float. book calls for a maximum of .oo7 of a inch play i dont work in inches but looks to be a atleast a millimeter of play to me i need to get something to measure it properly yet but would excessive play in crank cause a knock? How do i fix this excessive play ?

Thanks im in New Zealand

I did try pushing clutch fully in when i had engine running seemed to make no difference to knock . I took piston and bearings to mehcanic for second opinion he said it all looked perfectly fine obviously used but plenty of life in it he suggested what i may be hearing is piston slap and to get the piston expanded and see what happens ? Your thoughts ?

Pressed into piston or rod?

Ok guys so took off bottom end bearing was good and no noticeable movement in the top end but ....... the gudgen pin is moving side to side in piston am i right in saying that these are ment to be a press fit and the gudgen shouldnt move within the piston ? I think i may have found my knock

Sorry late question did you use sealant on the gasket as well specialy around the upper selector shaft or is that unnecessary?

What sealant did you use this is a up and coming job for me too

Thanks ill keep that in mind

Haha yes i thought if that i just too nervous as to what maybe rong to ignore it

Thanks guys yeah parts start climbing pretty high when you gotta get them sent to nz and with exchange rate but yes still cheaper than complete rebuild ill get a gasket set drop pan and head if necessary and see whats going on

Ill try that why would depressing the clutch change or stop the knock

It does have a leak at manifold to exhaust pipe but perhaps leaking at manifold to last cylinder . Am i right in saying if it was a rod bearing or gudgen pin noise it would show more when you reved it or under load ?

Also engine noise more pronounced when hot

Forgive me but with compression check im just looking for an marked difference between cylinders or with in range .how do i do a vacume check what am i looking for

Hi guys i have a 52 plymouth cranbrook with a p26 motor . Ive had it since December last year just working on it to get a warrent ( New Zealand's road laws ) ive had it running and driving round but its got an knock at idle this knock disappears over idle it doesn't clatter or knock when you rev it or under load ? I have 40 pound oil pressure minimum when hot . Worryingly it does go away if i short the rear most cylinder plug .Any ideas?

Thanks really helpfull

Sorry that was stupid to leave out 1952 plymouth cranbrook .standard 3 speed manual transmission

Hi all , Ive finally got the plymouth up and running and have been on a few good runs .Unfortunately the gearbox is leaking quiet badly the leak apears to be coming from the front input shaft or perhaps somewhere around the gear selector plate , my question is what seals the input shaft the manual dosent depict a seal and i cant seem to find one listed to buy , is it common for them to leak around there ? Im going to pull gearbox out to fix seals at some stage ,at this point the output shaft seal is not leaking should i replace it anyway or just leave it alone until it does leak . Also the universal boots on drive shaft have split completely so will have to be replaced also but was thinking replacing the the internal pin and ball parts at same time .how do i tell if they are at end of life or even need replacing thanks

Thanks very much as you said im use to having to find neutral gate or H pattern thanks

Hi guys ,I have a problem my 52 Plymouths column change lever wont hold at the 1st or reverse position ( close to steering wheel ) when either gear is selected . Once either gear is selected it will sping back to the 2nd or 3rd position ,ive studied the manual but with this car being NewZealand new it was built right hand drive so linkage system is different to any thing i can find .it still uses rods to select gears but uses a cable conennected to bottom of the column selector shaft to switch between banks of gears . I cant see anything that will stop the gear lever moving from the bank selected is this normal ? Or should it be locked in from inside gearbox ?

Thanks i can do something like that altho this car hasnt got the heater fitted as a option but can do the same thing but just straight pipe

Thanks you maybe right i think it maybe a latter head or engine ,ill try making something up i dont want to risk tapping head this is rear car and engine in New Zealand very hard to find parts