Bryce Mcclintock

Ive played with that slot it gets me no further ahead at all i can line everything up then go to time it with the small hotdog it puts it back in this weird position . Is it possible the reconditioners have not lined up the timing gears properly?

Ok so checked points gap its fine . I went back threw and started from scratch finding TDC outing oil pump drive in correctly getting 7 o'clock position on rotor did stactic timing and same problem bu position of rotor it looks like its past each plug wire terminal before it fires is this correct ? I would have thought it needs to fire pointing at terminal?

No i havnt checked that yet i assyme you mean points gap or rather the time the points are open .surely this woulnt put it out of sink though if it out may affect how it runs tho obviously

So the p26 motor arived back from reconditioners but he seemed a bit unsure he had the pump drive in the right place for the distributor timing. So with the engine sitting on a pellet i decided to check it all it was out so followed the book got it so distributor rotor is facing 7 o'clock great so hooked up battery to earth on engine and a inline light to distributor to set static timing at 2 degrees BTDC .this being set this set rotar arm off to the clockwise side of cylinder no 1 pin is that normal ? So i rolled engine over by hand and watched the rotar and light to see how it sat at the next pin but it went well past 5 and half way to 3 before indicating buld went out signaling fire . ? Im so confused what have i done wrong ? Im pretty sure no 1 was at TDC firing and the pump was put in as per manual .? Any Hints

Ok thanks no i didnt pull rubber boot off to check but ill do that thanks

Hi guys just finnished replacing rear wheel cylinders and break linings on my 52 Plymouth, bleed the breaks and went to check my ajustment on rear drums and breaks were locked on ? So jacked front wheels up they too were locked so ok must be the master cylinder? So long story short using the blunt end of a fine drill bit i found i checked to see if the relief port was clear and as you guessed as i pushed it in i had a squirt of fluid everywhere. When the pressure was gone i reinserted the drill bit and it apperars the cup on the piston is obstructing the relief port so i backed of the ajustment on push rod to double check it was releasing the piston fully and it still is obstructing the relief port ? Can these seals expand over time ? Or am i missing something also when i got car it has Dot 4 fluid in it as the bottle was still in glove box not sure if that would cause issues ?

Hi guys just finnished replacing rear wheel cylinders and break linings on my 52 Plymouth, bleed the breaks and went to check my ajustment on rear drums and breaks were locked on ? So jacked front wheels up they too were locked so ok must be the master cylinder? So long story short using the blunt end of a fine drill bit i found i checked to see if the relief port was clear and as you guessed as i pushed it in i had a squirt of fluid everywhere. When the pressure was gone i reinserted the drill bit and it apperars the cup on the piston is obstructing the relief port so i backed of the ajustment on push rod to double check it was releasing the piston fully and it still is obstructing the relief port ? Can these seals expand over time ? Or am i missing something also when i got car it has Dot 4 fluid in it as the bottle was still in glove box not sure if that would cause issues ?

Thanks very much

I do have one now . Just dont want to bolt it all up and find it wont fit threw and have to take it apart again is all and know that top mounting bolt for gearbox will be much easyer to tighten up if i can put enging and box together ouside of car . Was just simply wanting to know if anyone had put the engine and gearbox back in together or if they need to go in separately .

Hi guys I will be putting the engine and gearbox back into my 52 cranbrook soon .when I removed them I took the gearbox off first before removing engine from car only because i was using the rafters in roof to hoist engine out and didnt have access to an engine crane and wanted to eliminate as much weight as possible . When i took gearbox off it was extremely hard to get a spanner onto the top mounting bolt of gear box on the selector side theres very little room and so have a feeling it going to be difficult to get it properly tightened again .my question is can i bolt the gearbox up to engine before installing and slide in in as one ? On a buy eye inspection it looks like the gearbox is too wide to slide threw between the mounting member and gearbox tunnel and needs to be installed after engine ? Thoughts ?

Ok who can i get the neoprene seal from ? I just tryed to install the seal got from Andy and it is almost identical apart from the leather being swapped out for rubber and it outside diameter is slightly bigger .is this because the metal outter squashes a bit when its fitted for a tight seal ? If not it may explain why i cannot get the new seal in cant even get it started very fustraiting

Oh ok thanks im in New Zealand i ordered these parts from Andy Bearbam? Not the right spelling . Hes in America i assumed it was a the new equivalent not a Nos part im stuck with it now the shipping takes too long

Also havnt seen old seal yet if its the same ill have a refrence but just incase should the felt side of seal be towards fron and rubber side towards diff or other way round .thanks again for your knowledge

Sorry just to clarify a thin coat of sealant before i tap seal in ?

My seal just has a rubber lip on inside and felt on opposite side just bare metal outter so i wouldnt think ill have a sealant compatibility issue ?

Im pitting a new diff pinion seal in my 52 Plymouth today it was suggested to me to put sealant around outside of seal as it can leak ? Whats your experience? If i do put sealant should i put a smear in before and tap seal into it or put it around outside after its installed if i need to at all Thanks

My 52 has the spring clip on the chassis side but not clutch side there is a grove for clip on chassis side but not on clutch side so henceforth my original question it must just be held in when its all bolted up and because of the ball shape those bearing cant come out untill they are that worn out they fall out in my case ?

Thanks that clears it up they must have just worn enough to fall out thanks again

Hi guys ,while ive got engine out I checked over the clutch linkages i found the bearings from the clutch side of the torque shaft pivot are gone ? No big deal to replace but my question is there apears there is nothing to hold them in other than the ball pivot when its bolted in place, the chassis side has a spring retainer but there seems to be no groove to take any sort of retainer on the clutch side . Could they have worn that much they fell out ?or is there another sort of retainer im missing ? . This car had sat for 20 years and only drove it a couple times before i realised i needed to pull engine but looking at pivot ball they have been missing quiet some time . My manual doesn't depict this part . The car is a 52 Plymouth cranbrook standard 3 speed but i also see from another post the torque shaft i have was only used up to 51 ? This is a New Zealand new car sent from Canada and assembled here and so its right hand drive if that makes a difference to parts used as i know the gear linkages are slightly different as well

No its not where its bolted to engine its the outlet of exhaust mainfold to exhaust pipe where its leaking

Hi guys , ive had to replace the exhaust gasket between manifold and exhaust pipe twice now on my 52 plymouth . Bith times it worked fine for a while then they both ended up leaking and cutting a piece out if gasket is there a trick to putting these in yo stop this happening ? Ive een told this point in exhaust is renowned for leaking .

Ok thanks

Hi guys as i said in another topic i had a knock in engine found the rear main being was chewed out on clutch side of thrust face so egine has to come out . Whats the best way to get it out do i remove the panel that bolds radiator and front grill and bring engine out the front or take hood off and take her out top ?. 52 Plymouth by the way

Yes i agree ill take it out and get it checked over buy the same guy who working on pistons and rings for me .im sure at worst it can be welded and machined back ...at a price ! Haha . All the other bearings look good is there anything underlying that would cause the the thrust bearing to chew out on back side like that the front and journal still look fine or is this just a age wear and tear thing ?

Ok guys now ive found knock the whole rear side of thrust bearing it chewed up so im guessing crank will be buggered now too . sigh