Bryce Mcclintock

Hi guys I've noticed my temp gauge on my 52 carnbrook climbs a bit when I come to stop at lights and can climb a bit during summer while crusing .it's never boiled the needle never leaves the center bar on gauge . My question is that bar to indicate normal operating temperature range or do I need to look into it further ? Engine and radiator have not long been reconditioned new water pump and distribution tube as well.

Yeah went to a engineer today it's not looking good replacement is my best option

The holes are for the pins from the weights to to locate to control mehcanical advance hence this piece is not screwed down a small spring clip holds I down from the top . It's not the up and down movement that causes the problem it's side to side its the wear between the shaft and the cam stop plate

Distributor is a IAT 4011A Cam stop plate is stamped RAD.I have 3 parts distributors they all have movement in the cam stop plate , maybe it's normal ? Although I can't see how when it's enough to see points moving ? .

Hi guys , I have a annoying intermittent miss when Im at constant speed not during acceleration. After some investigation I found I had some play in the distributor, suspecting the bushings I began dismantling to replace them but found they are fine it's actually the cam stop plate that's lose on the shaft . Are these available to replace? or has anyone fitted bushings to the cam stop plate it's self ? Thanks in advance

Hi guys I have a 52 cranbrook standard 3 speed and its original diff unsure of ratio. It has a later 230 engine in it that's been reconditioned and run in just wonder what your thoughts are on what a safe sustained top speed would be in relation to engine revs . Open road speed here in New Zealand is 100 kilometers so about 62 miles and the car gets there not trouble but man it sounds like it's reving hard or is this just the nature of the beast with the 3 speed?

The car has done 300 miles since rebuild on those plugs . I ment to say I'd just done a 20 kilometer drive that day before I pulled the plugs . As for choke it's not connected the mechanism that bolts to the manifold was missing when I got the car . I never bothered finding one as a couple if pumps on accelerator and then holding it down a bit it starts everytime . Has NGK BR6S plugs in it

Hi guys as I said I a previous thread I've just got this car back on the road after a rebuild and has being going well apart from a leaking rear main seal . I had notice it smelt rich sometimes and I have a black spot on my garage wall from start ups so decided to pull plugs to have a look to see what they show . The pictures are of plugs after a 20 kilometer drive so a nice hot engine . But these plugs to my surprise are very white ! Is it running too lean or am I just bring paranoid ?

I've had that and still do! caused alot of sweating when I started up the rebuilt engine . The fuel pump was rebuilt as well must be the lever arm itself that's worn .

Yes seems from what you guys are saying it may just be the nature of the beast and something I'll have to just live with . Thanks again for all your input.

I see yours are made of rubber or neoprene? I'm sure the ones in my set were made of cork as well as the side pieces maybe the cork doesn't seal as well?

Ok this could make sense as in the end of pan because there is a small leak at front too perhaps they cut those rails off too short not knowing? I did notice those pieces appeared to be too long when I ordered the pan gasket set and had a look at it before I gave it too them

Hi guys I have a 52 plymouth has a later 230 with the 3 speed Trans . I've just done 200 miles since a rebuild and it's going well apart from a heavy leak from rear mains seal . This motor was done by a shop and I'm sure they would probably fix it if I tore engine out and took it back . Thing being I simply don't want to go to that extent if I don't have too . My question Is if I take of dust cover and oil pan and undo the rear main cap can I have a go at putting a fresh set of those rubber ear pieces try seal it up I'm sure the upper and lower halves will be fine they are the push in neoprene type not bolted in . Is this an ok thing to do am I going to upset anything buy removing that rear main ? Thanks

Hi guys just to let you know I end up shortening the pin in a lathe after some measurements of old set up had to use old buttons the new ones are completely wrong in every way. All back together and seems to be smooth so lucky escape thanks for advice guys

Thanks guys yes id like to go using modern universal joints but ive only recently had engine done up and many other things to get car back on road and the fund pool is very empty just want to get it back o road but thanks for that info it will be valuable in ghe future when i convert it

Ok good to know im not alone . I unfortunately cant salvage much from old parts a couple of the needle rollers had broken and had munted everything inside . Do you thinkn could cut the new pin shorter with some careful estimation to allow for the thicker buttons and slightly longer pin i suspect

Hi guys had one ball and truion joint fail not a big deal ordered replacement pa k from Andy Bernbaum. I already had a new housing that came with car replced it all got to putting the end button caps and spring washers on and went to slide on houseing and it wouldnt go so turns out the end caps are much too thick and the pin is slightly too long anyone else had this problem ? I called Andy Bernbaum and they sent another kit out was still too wide assembled i called again they just said try grinding down the buttons .? Is this a good idear or not i thought you have to get them spot on to keep housing centered on pin ?

Thanks for that had a feeling that was the case just double checking

Hi guys , I got a new water pump from Andy Bernbaum for my 230 plymouth engine . It does not have a grease nipple on it but it does have a blank hole (no thread in it ) on the very underside in casting along pump shaft . Am i ment to tap and put a nipple in or is this a type of breather and modern bearings dont require grease?

Ok so ive been on holiday but was talking to a friend and he suggested perhaps there is a roll pin or rivet that may have broken and allowed the tang to have spun a little before jaming again putting it of line with rotor is that a possibility with this distributor? Ive never had one completely broken down or seen an exploded view of one . What angle should tang be in relationship to rotor ? I know mine are definately not lined up ?

I assume its the correct cap it was a running engine before taken apart i do have another cap ill see if there is a difference

Ok off with pump and ill try again thanks for your everyones input

Thanks yes thats where its at . Can anyone else have a look to see where the rotor is pointing when the points begin to open . I k ow im close but feel it reslly is to far off to the clockwise side of plug wire terminal.

NYes i know i put the engine at 2 degrees BTDC then rotated distributor with a indicator bulb hooked up to set it moving distributor clock wise till bulb lights then moving it counter clockwise and stopped the moment it went out

Ive indexed so many times now and so other variants as well this was the closest i can get it i did follow the book and rotor is in 7 o'clock position its when i do the static timing it comes to the clockwise side of pin ?