Mertz

I miss spoke. It was the farm rigged copper fuel line.

The belt is new but I just reinstalled the generator so there might be an issue there. The sqwelling noise would indicate the belt. No exhaust leak found on the stethoscope but will check again. No noise from the new water pump. I think it might be the belt. Will give it a look tomorrow. Took the belt off no noise. Put the belts back on no noise. It appears the noise was caused by either the farm made copper brake line hitting the vibration damper or the engine set up a vibration causing the tapping sound. I bent the line away from the damper and the noise went away.

It was very smooth after adjusting the valves. Will try starting with the belt off after a close look at belt alignment. Stethoscope did not indicate valves.

The belt is new but I just reinstalled the generator so there might be an issue there. The sqwelling noise would indicate the belt. No exhaust leak found on the stethoscope but will check again. No noise from the new water pump. I think it might be the belt. Will give it a look tomorrow.

The ticking is at idle rpm and lessens when I up the rpms. I think it is get louder with every start up. It also made a sqwelling noise when I give it more gas. No noise from the fuel pump. It seems to coming from the timing change chain area.

I thought my generator was making the noise but I rebuilt it with a new bearing and that wasn’t it. Got a new battery today and fired it up and it’s making a kind of ticking noise but it’s not a lifter. I used a stethoscope and it doesn’t sound like a bearing knocking but it’s near the very front of the engine. I didn’t replace the timing chain because it looked like new. Could that be what I’m hearing. The noise wasn’t there when I adjusted the valves. The video file is to big to send.

I received the VC1039a and it will not work in my distributor. The offset is way too big. What I need looks more like the VC2042 in the picture above upper left. I believe the seller had the wrong unit in the box marked as a VC1039a. The 1039 sold on other sites look more like the one I need. I contacted the seller about the issue.

I couldn’t find the item number you listed. I think I found it and was also looking at another one also $35 but different part number. Is the one you are referring to?

looks like SS 109-1.

I have a non-functioning vacuum chamber on my distributor and didn’t want to spend $150 for a new one. I was going to run without until I found some on eBay for a reasonable price. Does anyone know what part numbers work with my 1940 Plymouth truck? There are a number of unit for 57 and newer cars that are reasonably priced and appear correct. I also have one listed for earlier cars that is an autolite vc2082r which I’m leaning to.

I did save some of the dirt in a zip lock. It’s about 80 years old so probably worth a fortune. I imagine my dented cab was also probably caused by hauling hay. I have friends in Warden.

I have one soft push on the pedal and then it’s firm. It’s a new master cylinder but I will check for fluid. I expected fluid coming out when I removed the old one but didn’t get any but there was no pressure in the line. A socket does not fit between there switch and the mater cylinder body so it is a pain to remove and replace.

I definitely have power to the brake light switch.

I don’t have the brake lights installed yet. What I have done is to push on the brake pedal and hold it in with a stick. Then I go to the switch with a test light. I ground the light and touch it to the non hot terminal. If it is working it would have closed the switch and sent power to the non hot terminal energizing it making the test light go on. But the test light does not come on. It did this with the old switch so I got a new one but same result. Maybe the stick method isn’t working and I will have to have someone step on the pedal.

I wasn’t getting current with the original brake switch so I put on a new one and still no current. I’m holding The brake pedal down with a stick.

Lots of dents and some front end frame damage with a huge weld on the driver’s side frame horn. It was hit pretty hard on the passenger side running board bending the fender and running board brackets. The rear fender was held on with a long thick metal strap. Brakes worn to the metal but the drums were good. Lots of Montana dirt on everything. Transmission in near perfect condition, just replaced the seals. I have no idea how the cab top was so badly damaged. They must have dropped stuff on it while loading the bed which had a thin metal plate covering the missing wood bed. Still a lot of fun to restore because some of the things were badly damaged and others like they were brand new. Mileage on the odometer just over 26,000.

Update. I just figured what that fuse is for, the truck used to have a radio. I guess you just need to consider all the facts and not make assumptions.

I’m still confused. I did get under the dash with a good flashlight and managed to remove the fuse holder (which did not come off very easily) and replaced the fuse and things are ok. The other fuse holder goes to the left side of the ammeter but I have no idea where it connects to after that. I thought it was the light switch.

Mytruck came out of Montana and was used on a ranch or farm. The owner did some pretty interesting things to the truck when it needed repairs. One very interesting one is that his fuel line in front of the engine had been damaged and he replaced it with some copper tubing and welded it to each end of the existing line he was replacing. I now get a slit green ting to my fuel. The thing the really told me farm truck was what he did at the rear bumper. When I took off the hitch I had to straighten the frame because his metal working skills were pretty good but his measurements were a bit off. 5 thick washer on one side and 3 on the other. I think it’s going look pretty good when I get the bed on. Please note the original misspelling of vehicle and the obvious fix.

I installed my turn signal and everything was working great except my brake light. I checked it and there was no power going across between terminals. Got the new one in and used an awl to pull the clip on the hot wire which caused a short and made the awl very hot and burned my finger. Now I have no power to the switch and the headlights quit working. I thought I burned out a fuse. It is a strange setup. There is a fuse holder that slips over what I thought was a second fuse holder. It turns like it wants to come out but it won’t. There is a holder that slips over the one attached to the headlight switch which just slips on but nothing to hold it in place. Did I burn out my headlight switch? Is there a fuse on the headlight switch? I put a test light on the headlight side and got power. I jumped a hot wire to the brake switch pushed the pedal and still no power to the opposite terminal. If I need a new headlight switch how do I get it off? BTW. I have the generator off to replace the brushes and the bearing. I tried jumping the two wires to the generator but it didn’t mater.

I tried getting to the site but all I get are access to ads. Can you give me the part number.

Took the generator off and spun it with my drill and I got up to 7.5v. The bushings look ok but the bearing was catching now and then especially if I spun it in reverse. Took the cover off and removed the bearing. It had a lot of dirt in it. I cleaned it and it spins better but rattles a bit. I will be replacing it. Will a sealed bearing work with the race still in the generator? Is that removable? Will any bearing for any generator work? Mine is a Chrysler Autolite.

It did have a radio and an antenna but only the antenna remained. So the capacitor probably had no effect on the electrical system.

My generator was charging fine until today when all of a sudden it started making noise and doesn’t show a charge on the gauge. It could just be the brushes but the sound is more like a bearing. When looking for a replacement I noticed some have a capacitor connected to one terminal and a screw to the body. Mine doesn’t have one. Should I add one and what does it do? Could this have caused a failure? I just hooked up my headlights so it was getting a little more draw when I had them on.

Do I splice into the brake light switch or replace the wire with a new one?