Cpt.Fred

thanks merle! but:eek::eek: prices gone up a little? no puller for my pocket.

good morning from over here! a friend of mine is on a plane to north carolina and offered me to buy a good drum puller for me and bring it over. now when i read the tech tips there was a puller mentioned that was purchased at napa for around 12o$. i have been digging on the napa homepage for quite some time now, still found nothing... does anyone here by any chance know the napa parts number? thanks!! fred

aero, i cannot say anything helpful but i have been through it all as well, and my drums still sit right where they sat when i got the car. i even managed to brake a hammer AND a puller (don't ask me how). when i get a new one i'll start again. we shall overcome:rolleyes: good luck to you!!!

thanks guys! i guess i try the night prowler, i'd like to have everything from one hand in the correct sizes, and i agree on not buying any china stuff that makes you loose you rear end at the next speed bump... though i'll have to slow down there anyway:D i'll write an email and keep you updated! thanks again, fred

i've been searching for a source of lowering blocks for a while now, and haven't found anything yet. not even with the search engine on this forum... 2 questions: now i know some of you are riding low, so: 1) where can i buy these things? i heard the normal ones are too wide for our rear springs. 2)i would like to try different heights, can i start with 4" blocks and just cut them smaller when it's too low? thanks, fred

i like the 40 better especially the front section. but the car on the photos is a real special one, in awesome shape. i didn't take the pics myself, but i had the chance to have a ride in it once and it drives just like new!

... this was one of the nicest cars that wasn't a rod! and one of the fastest, too: beautiful '41 coupe from the lifter's car club. just had to share...

:cool:thanks rich, that's what i wanted to hear! case closed, and thanks again!!

thanks, andy, of course it helps:) how many inches did you get out of that 3/4 coil? i got a few pics from the springs and i saw that they're flat on one side and open on the other... since i haven't taken mine out yet i can't tell if it's the same or not... anyone?

... does anyone know if they are interchangeable? i am planning to lower my '40 P-10 and i can buy a pair of front springs from a '39 dodge. the plan is to put my originals aside and shorten the dodge springs instead, so i can rebuild to original riding height if i want to. is that possible? or does anyone know what other types of springs, maybe from more modern cars, are suitable? thanks, guys!

the original body is based on the opel kapitän (love that name:D) and it's a beauty! holden as well as opel. i guess it's one like this: http://www.autobild.de/ir_img/59987046_49f6630eb2.jpg or at least closely:rolleyes: there is a holden in germany, seen it once. very nice car and very exotic around here!

michael: all i can say is that i personally was born in 1981 in germany (so i don't remember the slightest thing about these cars and am, at least by age, a member of this "new generation"). i bought my 1940 P-10 deluxe two door sedan, first hand, completely original condition, no rust outs, running and everything a year ago for 7500 US dollars (and i think i could have had it cheaper but i didn't care because i wanted THIS CAR and not an object of financial speculation), spent about a hundred dollars on literature and joined this forum. i asked a lot of stupid questions, i made lots of mistakes, right now i could blow the car up because the brakes won't do what i tell them to do, but i love this hobby and i also had a lot of laughs on this forum and hundreds of interesting threads that had nothing to do with my problems but were educating anyway! get dirty under your car, waste time on the forum, waste money on spare parts, fight with your girl because you're always in the garage, and enjoy a cold beer after a day of fixing problems yourself! or go get a honda like your mechanic wants you to.

also found the source of that mechanical noise: one of the attachment screws was too long:rolleyes:

installed the new fuel pump yesterday, works fine! now i don't need to crank the engine forever after it sat a while. just turn the key, pull a hidden switch and the carb is full and she fires up right away! only that little noise from the pump is quite disturbing in the beginning... i tried to seal the old pump, but no chance, so i kicked it out completely and sealed the opening with a steel plate. there's a little mechnical noise now, guess the rocker touches the plate, is that possible? i'll take it out again and search for traces on the metal tonight. also i found the vaccum source on the intake. someone had disabled it with a cap. wipers are moving now, too! happy, happy fred:)

:D:D:eek: try that over here and get busted... that's the kind of stuff the police really likes! i personally think of it as a very creative and cheap way to get a colored flash light. if you're running 6V it looks nearly the same, anyway...

on my 40, it's the same thing. i hope it disappears when i lower the back a little. looks stupid with the white walls otherwise... but this is defenately the original axle in there.

correct. like i said: sliding vane or vane type pump. i'm going to install it today, i hope, so i'll post a photo as soon as i'm done with the setup and wiring. still need to solve that kill switch problem. must be hooked up to the distributor somehow, i guess...

"battleship grey":D that's a great name for it! i have the same on my 40. love the tail lights! i hope you post your progress and take a lot of pictures, they're priceless afterwards!

looks like it was resprayed? is the color on the last picture of the firewall the original one? congratulations on your find! looks like a very nice car!

that's what i meant. only with a 4 wire you have to put the relays in. works fine.

look here for more info on the pierburg pump: http://www.ms-motor-service.com/ximages/pg_pi_0034_de_web.pdf it's the EF1 on top of page 3, translator says it's called a sliding vane or vane type pump.

hey guys, i just managed to find a Pierburg pump that will suit my needs and is running 6V as well. i don't want to change to 12V for nostalgic reasons, plus my wiring is all new and my lights are really bright now, so no problems on that end. i ordered the little fellow just a minute ago and will hopefully get it by tomorrow. good tip with the flow direction andy! but i guess it will be a pusher and i just bolt it to the frame right underneath the gas tank. good thing with the 6V is, that will only have an operating pressure of about 0.3 bar, so i won't need a metering block or anything else. i'm thinking about a kill switch, though. heard some nasty stories about electric pumps and accidents... i'll head back to the garage in the evening, then ill find out about the vaccuum source. many thanks again! fred

good one hihi

thanks guys:) as always, you're a great help! i love this forum:cool: i guess after reading all your statements i will go on like this: i'll defenitely go for a electric pump, pierburg sells them over here. no real 6V anymore, but they have all operation data in their technical sheets for the 12V pumps so i guess i can just run them on 6V OR 12V, just have to check volume and pressure and buy the right one big enough for my engine when run on 6V. at the moment i cannot let the electric one run through my old mechanical pump, because its leaking like hell. but i'll go for a rebuild kit and contact those antique guys today. thanks for the link! i'll check for that vaccum source on the intake, haven't seen anything so far. amazing that they were operating those convertible tops with that small pump! bill: ???i don't know, but it was easy to read???

i wired mine as following: using a switch like this: if you use this setup, it' easy to hook up other stuff like third brake lights, but you have to have a third wire going directly to it and not going through the flashers. only problem is, that you can either only use the signals and hazard flasher with ignition turned on or always, if you hook them up to a constant power source. i had to use to flashers and 2 relais (diode?sorry my english is bad)) because you have to avoid constant light when using turn signals and brake at the same time. i hope this helps! p.s. he's talking about the brake light switch, i guess. those are hydraulic switches built into the brake line just before the master cyl. in the drawing above its the upper switch, the one under it is your signal switch on the column.