fireguyfire

Not specific to my style of gauge, but it’s great to confirm that the suggested repair will work on any style of gauge.

I’m curious, as DCM sells the thinner one only in their kit

So I’m wanting to keep my gauges and dash 100% factory looking in my 1940 1/2 ton. When I bought the truck the tube from the temp gauge was broken, looks like years ago. im wanting to use the factory temp and oil pressure gauge, but it looks like the gauge, tube and temp sensor that threads into the side of the head are a 1 piece system. Can anyone suggest a way that I can keep my factory gauges, but make the temp gauge function again?

I’ve blasted and painted my “U” shaped rad support and I’m getting ready to re install the front clip of my 1940 1/2 ton. The rubber insulator that goes between the bottom of the rad support and where it bolts to the frame is long gone. Is the rubber insulator that goes there a thin rubber piece (1/16”) or the thicker style (1/4” thick). I see both available on line and it’s impossible to tell how thick it should be by the drawing in the parts manual.

Thanks Ed!

I’m ready to drop my restored flathead engine back into my 1940 1/2 ton, and I’ve got a couple of questions regarding the motor mounts. 1) Does the front motor mount bracket bolt directly to the front frame crossmember ( at 2 points) directly, or is there supposed to be something between the frame and the motor mount bracket where they bolt together? 2) the rear motor mounts on my truck were badly decomposed and falling apart. I ordered a new pair from DCM and they look to be good quality. As we all know the rear motor mounts are in pairs, one on top of the frame mount bracket, and one below. The new rubber rear mounts are different; one is all rubber, and the other is rubber mounted onto a metal washer type base. Does tge mount with the metal base go onto the top of the frame bracket, or the bottom?

Cheers

Just finished restoring the distributor out of my 40 1/2 ton, and I’m going to set it up on my Sun 504; just wanted to confirm that the direction of rotation is clockwise on these old flatheads?

So just wanted to confirm JB; I have a restricted flow fitting on the bottom of my canister and a full flow on the top, which would mean the bottom is the inlet, correct?

The exhaust manifold part of the intake/manifold combo on my 1942 flathead engine has a large crack in it. I am fortunate to have 2 newer flathead parts trucks, a 57 and a 58. I took the 42 manifold combo out to the 57 and it looks the same in appearance, and general dimensions as the ones on the 57. Are the intake/exhaust manifolds from the 57 interchangeable with the ones from my 42?

It the diaphragm broken, can they be rebuilt or replaced?

Makes sense to me Jim; cheers

The flathead out of my 1940 1/2 ton was seized and unusable so I found a 1942 flathead that I am going to drop into my truck. My question is regarding the distributors; the original distributor on my 1940 engine has a vacuum advance pod on it; the distributor from the 1942 engine does not. Im looking for suggestions on which distributor you guys would use in the 1942 engine if you had the choice; vacuum or no vacuum, and why. I appreciate any opinions

Perfect, thanks. I wasn’t sure if you f it was heater hose or a smaller rad hose, if that makes sense.

I’m putting the finishing touches on my 1940 flathead 6 so that I can drop it back into my 1/2 ton. My question is about the small diameter thermostat bypass hose that goes from the top of the water pump housing and connects to the front of the thermostat housing. The original was so rotted it is hard to tell what it was. is this hose a smaller diameter version of a rad hose, or is it a piece of heater hose?

There are 2 brass fittings in my lock that I’m assuming are for the filter lines to connect to; 1 is at the top of the oil pressure relief valve housing, and the other is a couple of inches directly above that in the side of the block. Im thinking the fitting in the top of the pressure relief valve housing could be the supply line to the filter, and the fitting just above that in the side of the block is the return?

I’ve got the flathead 6 from my 1940 1/2 ton back together this weekend, and painted. A bunch of engine accessories were missing from my seized engine when I bought the truck, including the oil filter cannister. I was able to source a cannister filter that came off of a farm truck locally, and it is now time to clean it up, repaint it install it. I will need to make new supply lines for it, but being that it didn’t come off of my engine I need some help in making sure I route the lines correctly. Im assuming that the pine that goes to the highest point of the canister is the input line, and the line that goes out the bottom is the return line; is that correct? I also have a weird brass stub at the bottom which I am assuming is a drain. Can someone set me straight on where the line originates on the engine that goes to the top of the canister, and where the line that comes out of the bottom tied back into the engine? photos would be great, as I definitely don’t want to get this wrong and have an oil supply issue. Any help would be appreciated!

My dome light has the switch built into it

I’ve been continuing to dig and decide which colour I will paint my factory 1/2 ton rims; I tracked down an original set of 16” with the dog dish clips. Looking at photos it seems that a lot of these trucks had the rims painted the same colour as the body as well. Was that a common way that these rims were painted? I had always assumed they were all black as black paint was cheap, but I’m slowly discovering that there were a few different rim paint options?

Yes, that confirms the spring orientation behind the door panels. The interior kit I bought doesn’t have any holes for the fasteners pre drilled, and came with a ziplock bag of fasteners which is why I asked about the location of the fasteners in the other interior panels as well; I’ve got to locate and drill the fastener holes myself, and figure out how many and which kind of fasteners go with each panel.

Thinking about it I will likely have similar questions about the A pillar panels, and the headliner when I get around to installing them as well if anyone knows there stuff regarding interior panel fasteners.

A follow up question on the interior. My new panels are fitting great, and a bag of mixed fasteners of different types came with them in a bag, with no directions on what goes where. Tge door panels were pretty easy with the colour matched push pins, plus 3 screws with cup washers on the top edges of each door panel. im now onto the kick panels and I know there are 3 plain slot head screws that go along the windlace edge of the lock panels (with no cup washers) as the original ones were still in place on my truck. I’m guessing that there must be more than the 3 screws on the front edge to secure the kick panel in; can anyone help me out with how many and where the fasteners go on the kick panels? This job would be way easier if the old interior was still in my truck when I bought it!

Thanks!

I’m installing a new interior in my 1940 1-2 ton; when I purchased the truck the entire interior was gone. i had a question regarding the door panels; the springs for both the window winder and door handle go under the door panels, correct? and the springs have a large and a small end. I seem to remember that the small end goes towards the door, and the large end towards the back of the panel, but I’m not 100% sure. can someone help me out with these backer springs?

Is it just screwed to the headliner?