lostviking

NHOU.

Other than using a Scarebird kit, that is exactly what several of us have done and documented in thread here. I added the Wilwood residual valves later, but I'm sure we are using the same parts. I also didn't come up with the Toyo master, another person who had already documented it supplied that for me. I'm back to that right now btw. Funny thing is, every time I've had the lines off and master dry, I've been able to fill it up and wait over night...then just pump. Never had to bench bleed the master

When I stopped developing my AoK clone intake, it wasn't because I thought it was a bad idea. In fact I also stopped working on an adapter plate for the 833 transmission. I did that because I found out from Tim Kingsbury, that George Asche might have some plates still available. He did, so I bought one. He actually did a new run of them so I got one that was just finished. In talking with Robert, one of his sons, about the plate I tossed out a question I thought I knew the answer to...were there any AoK intakes still available? I was shocked when he told me they might have one I could buy. I sent them a check the very next day In all it's glory, here is where I am with it. I'm just getting started mocking up the linkage. George will do that for you, and it would most likely be better. I'm using my Carter WA-1's though and George prefers the B&B. Besides the fact that I like to do my own tinkering. I drilled the tabs for the linkage rod a bit over and epoxied 5/16 oilite bronze bushing in place. I used the rod as a jig to get them in the right alignment, using my digital angle finder and some wire to pull the rods until is was as close to perfect as I can get it. I still need to add a threaded hole to locate the bell crank, which I'll take off my stock manifold. The right carb is just lightly bolted back together for the photo. I am taking it into work tomorrow to use one of our mills to drill for the custom bushings I'm making for the throttle shaft. The machine shop manager (We are an electronics company in simple terms) is helping me plan. I'm going to redo the bushings from some oilite bronze they have at .375 dia. I don't think the cast iron base has the wall thickness to go that far, so we will take a look and go with something that has more like a .020 wall thickness. We make cryogenic equipment (physics instruments) primarily, although I work on our SEM/AFM fusionscope project team. Anyway, I have liquid nitrogen I can use to freeze the bushings and after we heat the cast iron the plan is to have about a .0005 interference fit. Pretty tight sounding, but our guy's do tighter than that. I'll hone the bushings to size from my initial .3105 reamer. Should be fun. You never find cool things, if you don't ask. I don't know if there are any more intakes available or not. The truth is, if you don't have to pay for anything but the raw materials (machine yourself, welding is free) you can do a pretty good job of imitation using the design I started. But it won't have George Asche Jr's name on it. Miles of smiles here.

Before anyone else makes the same mistake. I tried fitting that master cylinder in the truck today, but there just isn't enough room. It's longer than the stock one was, so it hits the steering box, and it might hit the starter also, I just couldn't tell. Bummer. I'll keep it and give it a try if I get an IFS installed some day.

Books are good.

Just bought a .3105 reamer to finish this off. Then I'll just cut a couple to length.

The bushing I purchased came in over size and I won't use them. I just stepped away from the lathe, making my own. I turned the OD to .376, which I can reduce if I need to, but by freezing them I think I can put them into the cast iron (which I'll heat). That should give me a nice tight fit. I'm going to drill the ID just under and them ream using a .310 reamer. That should give me .001 (or .0005 on each side) and a pretty much perfect fit. I used standard bronze, because we have it and because this is almost a static surface for a throttle shaft. Either way, it's a lot less severe of an interface than the shaft against cast iron. Now I just need to turn a shaft long enough to go through both sides of the body, to use as an alignment tool for my drill press. I'll have it in the DP vise, clamp it and use the "tool" to align the body perfectly. Then just swap the "tool" for the reamer. Then I'll have two perfectly aligned .375 holes to push the bushing into.

Oilite bushings are almost alway ream to fit. IDK where you see someone saying to not ream them. Take a look at the Practical Machinist or a bunch of other sites regarding reaming bushings. Spec is .001, not .002 which is probably fine, but looser than one of my carbs is now. It's doubtful I'll need to do anything after installation due to the method of installing the bushings.

To repair the thottle shaft wear, after measuring it's in the cast iron part, the shaft doesn't have any real wear. I bought some 5/16 ID, 3/8 OD bronze bushings and a 3/8 reamer on Amazon. It has a flute area longer than the carb diameter and a nice long shaft. I can stick it through the two holes in the carb base to align things and ream "backwards". The bushing are smooth, so I will use some JB Weld steel repair to epoxy them in place. After they are completely cured, I'll use another 5/16 reamer to align bore the bushing, just in case there is any issues. I'll check the throttle shaft first and if it's easy to go in and fits freely, I won't do the final ream. Should end up with a nice tight rebuild on this one. I cleaned all the linkage up with some wire brush heads and my Dremel. I'm definitely going to take the bottom off the other carb and do this also, as it still has some rust and can get rid of. I'll just need to replace the butterfly screws again. Pretty much wraps up the rebuild thread for the carbs. After that I just need to put them on my AoK intake and fab the linkage. I'll just model mine after what George does, because that works fine.

Here's some before and after action. The surface has been sprayed with carb cleaner to displace the water, then PB Blaster to keep it from rusting right away.

I took the throttle shaft out today and measured. Yep, about .010 clearance. .001 is about what it should be, so definitely need to bush this one. While it was just iron, I popped it into a plastic container of water/washing soda and I'm removing all the rust with electrolysis. Same technique I used to restore the rusty heater I bought awhile back. It will be spotless. Probably take the bottom off the first carb and do it also, just not today.

Someone else asked about the exhaust flanges I had made, so I'll post the drawing and anyone who wants can use it. exhaust flange.DXF

Do a google search. There are a number I have used, but it's been awhile. I use Solidworks and Draftsight, so... No, SendCutSend only takes DXF files.

You should make sure that the scaling of the DXF export is correct, it does happen. I usually dimension the drawings also. Keep any issues like that from happening, because they have the dimensions I say it is right in the drawing. The only problem I had was in the first part I sent them, I sent a top and side view, as I would most vendors. They sent me both parts

Its a place called SendCutSend. You just send them a drawing of the part, tell them the material and thickness and bam. I've used them a couple times now. Better than going to a traditional machine shop, or even just doing it yourself some times.