lostviking

This is the cross section of the old and new transmissions so you can see the different length in relation to the clutch, pp fingers and pilot bushing. If you are doing the swap, you are free to PM me and if I have an answer, I'll share.

OK, one member contacted me asking so I'll drop by once. I didn't design this adapter, or come up with the idea. It is the work of Tim Kingsbury and George Asche Jr. They are AoK. A number of years ago, they designed and sold quite a few of these adapter plates, maybe 50 to 100 is a couple batches. The design is sound, and the originals were very well made. There are pictures in Tim's blog showing them, and they looked beautiful. Unfortunately, when George tried to get a few more made, due to demand, he had to find a new shop. That shop didn't do the same job the original shop did. The A833 side has the center hole too small, the bell housing side has the holes not located correctly or countersunk enough to keep the bolt heads from being proud. Those holes must be precisely placed, or it just won't work. Using a CNC mill, you should easily be able to hold .0005 diametral tolerance, but unfortunately, they didn't. The edges of the plates are even just saw cuts. I don't recommend them, and I wish that wasn't true. George is 93 and he only had this batch made because people asked him. I don't think he will offer them again and I don't blame him. I'm going back to making my own. I was able to find via multiple sources enough information to get all the hole patterns correct, but the drawing I got for the bell side, didn't locate the holes up/down in relation to the center hole. I made a guess and had a sheet metal template made. It will bolt very precisely to either the trans or the bell, but on the bell the center hole is sitting .46 too low. I have to make an adjustment and then I'll do another template to test it. Assuming I get it right, I'll do the actual plate. Mine will be 1/2 inch rather than .375 because I want the two top tapped holes to have more threads, and because it still give full engagement of the splines and the pilot bushing. I don't mind helping people doing the swap, but I'm not posting in the thread anymore. People who try to say something that, when built to the design drawing, won't work, when it has worked that many times just piss me off. Say it once, I get irked, go on and on about how the basic design is flawed, then you can kiss the rear end.

AoK has been making and selling these adapters for a number of years. The design hasn't changed, and I haven't heard of anyone having a problem with the basic design. Mine had manufacturing issues, not design issues. Yes, I did think of putting a small step on the bell side to assure the registration, but I didn't. The absolute location of the the four holes in my plate will be nearly perfect. The person who is making it for me will have the holes within the tolerance of the machine. It normally can hold .0005 tolerances. I don't think I"ll have any issues. Although I am considering taking a 6 inch round and making a plate with both bores to act as an alignment. I think that is overkill though...but I did design it. Maybe, if someone has a better understanding of mechanical engineering than AoK, he should contact either Tim Kingsbury or George Asche Jr directly to point out where they messed this up. I've found both of them to be very easy to talk to and happy to share their many decades of knowledge. I believe they are both automotive engineers, and they've been around flathead Mopars since their fathers opened the Chrysler engine plant in Canada in 1935. But hey, you may still know more and everyone makes a mistake right? I see why Tim doesn't come around here anymore. I've been sharing my experiences openly, even when I've made a mistake and had to back track. Maybe I'll just keep what I learn to myself from now on.

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Most cars/motorcycles use a simple pressure switch. It doesn't get any better.

I know you said you were moving on, but... Put a small insulator (thick paper?) between the points. Is the screw where the wire attaches to the distributor shorted to the case? If not, measure the condenser lead to the case. One of the two is the problem. If the insulator going through the dist wall is damaged, you could have a short. If the screw on the inside is touching, you will have a short. If the condenser is shorted... There are only a couple things in the picture that could cause a short.

6.5V seems a bit low to me. I'm used to seeing 8-9V.

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I'm at work, so I don't have my manual handy. Does the stock wiring have a ballast resistor?

Are you running a 12V coil? You should be if you are running a 12V electrical system.

To be honest, I'm cutting straws. I only said it "might" affect points life. It won't affect the smoothness of the engine running. As far as radio interference...are you running resistive plug wires? That's where the radio issues come from. So long as you have a condenser at all, I don't see that as an issue much.

How much rear end do you want? Do you want dualies?

Well, as the current tries to rise in a wire, the inductance of the wire resists. That's why there is a 90deg phase angle. Might not matter, but it is something engineers at least think about....maybe too hard. At work I deal in mole hills, so sometimes we think about things that are in reality immaterial.

The condenser is there to protect the points, which is why it's mounted to the points, and not on the other end of a wire. The wire has inductance remember, the opposite effect to capacitance. Here's another opinion: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/429248/in-a-points-ignition-system-should-the-condensercapacitor-be-attached-to-the