clarkede

I went to Carlisle this year for the first time since about 2005 and I was quite disappointed at the complete lack of vendors for older cars (pre 1960's??). I'm guessing that show is now for 1960-1970 car enthusiasts. I had a big list of items that I needed for my 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe and walked every isle and only saw a couple vendors that had anything close to what I was looking for. I've never been to a Hershey show. What is the vendor turnout for older cars??

I just started the engine with my analog voltage meter connected and then shorted the Field wire to ground(+). NO increase in voltage at all. I'm guessing this would indicate that there is a break in the field windings? For fun, if I were to open up the generator and isolate the wires to the field windings (from the armature and brushes), I'm guessing I would find that there is no continuity through the field windings. Right?

No I haven't. Your the first to recommend an actual test like this. I've got a couple weeks until the new Alternator arrives and I am really curious if the generator works. I wasn't sure what wires I could short to test it. I saw someone elude to this in some posting, but I didn't want to fry anything by shorting the wrong wire. I will try this tomorrow evening if it isn't raining too much from Hurricane Ian. I'll let you know what results show.

Thanks DJK. That image confirms my research and the only thing I'm going to do differently (Step 9) is run the wire from the alternator right to the ammeter (and bypass the voltage regulator). I just ordered the 6 Volt, Positive Ground Alternator (with bracket and Pully). I'm excited to get it and install it and hopefully my charging issues will be gone. I still don't know why the generator wasn't charging. Perhaps I got several Voltage Regulators that were DOA in a row.

Thanks! That's good to know about the shipping. I've spent the last couple hours researching generator to alternator conversions. This looks so simple and I'm thinking it might be the way to go (and just give up on the generator). Therefore, it looks like I would need a 60A, 6Volt, Positive ground Alternator with a bracket and the right size pulley (I think I have a 5/8" pulley, but I'll check). The single wire that comes out of the Alternator would simply connect to the wire coming from my Ammeter, right? That way it would show if it is charging or not. Now... do I choose a black or silver color? that is the question. It looks like you've converted yours to Negative ground (according to the battery cable colors)? Any special reason for that?

I did not remove any of the wires to test the Voltage Regulator after all - as your advice sounds right and it would not output anything anyway. I also watched the video which has some great info in it. Thanks for sharing!!! Tonight I tested voltage and it was 6.35 volts with engine off. Then I started the engine and the voltage stayed relatively steady at about 6.25 volts. There was a little movement as I increased the RPM's to about 2500, but I believe the voltage actually went down and not up. Unless someone has some ideas I think I'm going to have to take the generator back to the motor repair shop and see if they will test it again on the bench and tell me what the actual output voltage and amps are. Thus far, here's everything I've tried to get the generator to charge my battery: • Rebuilt/inspected the generator - Took the generator apart and cleaned/de-greased it inside and out. - Cleaning out the mica between all the contacts in the armature - Polishing armature (looks like shiny copper now) - Checked the brushes and cleaned the inside wire terminals where the brush connect - Lubricated the armature bushings - Cleaned the outside Armature and Field terminals - Tested the generator as a motor by shorting the Field terminal to ground(+) and connecting the Armature to battery(-) = Ran smooth. Not sure of RPMs but I would "estimate" a couple hundred RPMs(?) - I POLARIZED the generator. (everyone asks) :) • New wires and new connectors to the voltage regulator • New Voltage Regulator (Standard VR-2) - The original Voltage Regulator seemed fine, however, - I bought a new Voltage Regulator. I returned it because it wasn't charging the battery (I suspected it was dead on arrival), - I re-bought another new Voltage Regulator. - This makes 3 Voltage regulators all with the same results of "not charging" - I've bench tested the Voltage Regulator with variable voltage and I see two of the relays engage (close contacts) at about 6.9v and 7.8 volts respectively. • New Ammeter installed. Old one didn't work (needle didn't move at all, even after trying to repair it. Shunt must have failed) - Ammeter registers negative when I turn on the key, lights, heater, etc. - Ammeter does not register any charge when the engine is running (at 1500+ RPMs). I know it won't charge at idle RPM. • Other facts (related to electrical system that might be relevent): - I completely rewired the car from head to toe and installed two Fuse Blocks after ammeter. - One fuse block for Key-On devices, such as ignition, heater fan, fuel gauge, wipers, etc. - One fuse block for Always-On devices such as brake lights, cigarette lighter, interior lights, clock, etc. - I rewired brake and parking lights for turn signals - I ran "return" ground(+) wires back to Fuse Blocks for all lights, wipers, and devices that I could. - All electrical devices work as expected with no strange behavior that would indicate something amiss One-by-one, Plan to do the following. If anyone has any test or pictures/videos that they would like me to post, let me know. 1. I plan to take the generator out and take it apart to inspect - AGAIN. 2. I plan to retest the generator as a motor - AGAIN. Is there more than one type of test I could do??? 3. I Plan to take the generator back to the motor repair shop for them to bench test it again. 4. I will give up and look into the 6v Alternator mod. Thanks for any advice anyone can give. I just can't figure out why it runs as a motor, but won't put out enough voltage as a generator to charge the car.

I've seen a bunch of Youtube videos on the subject including the one called "Generator-How to bench test it while in your car". His clear and concise video is great, except it was wrong about the Field wire on my the 6v generator for the1948 Plymouth. I have a two brush generator, and in order to do a "motor" test you have to "ground" the Field wire - not connect it to the Armature terminal as in his video. Originally, I did what he said and it was actually a short circuit. Yikes. That was why I finally took it into a shop right before they closed and they offered to quickly test it for me. I think I might just try and run the generator tonight without connecting it to the Voltage Regulator and see what kind of voltage it puts out. I just wish I knew if this was advisable and why I'd like some advice from someone who knows. I've seen videos mention that the voltage could go up to 40+, but I don't know what to look for other than that. My goal ls just going to see if it will register over 7 volts or not. Wish me luck.

Where can I get a 6v positive ground alternator??? I seriously would consider it - especially if it fits with little to no modifications.

Yes. I polarized the generator. Also, when I took the generator to the motor repair shop the guy told me that he also polarized it and he assured me he did it for positive ground. I meant to mention this as it is a common issue with generators. Thanks.

I have a small but significant problem and I'm hoping you or one of your viewers can help. I have a 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe with a 6 volt positive ground system. I'm having problems with the charging system. I have taken the generator completely apart and cleaned "everything" inside. I then performed the "motor" test on it where I grounded the field wire and connected the battery to it and it runs "perfectly smooth." So I know everything in the motor seems right. I've confirmed that all the grounds related to the charging system are clean and well secured - including generator to the block; block to the battery; and I've added a dedicated ground wire from the frame to the voltage regulator (ground). I have replaced the voltage regulator on it twice - the current one I bench tested (two of the relays "engage" at around 6.8 add 7.2 volts respectively as I turn up the voltage slowly on my power supply). The battery voltage in the car at rest is around 6.24 volts. However, when I start the car the voltage does not increase at all - no matter what RPM I increase the engine to. I've tried both analog and digital multi meters. I've removed the generator, the wires and the voltage regulator - checked them and reassembled multiple times. Believe it or not, I had a bad Ammeter and had to replace it - now the Ammeter works fine - needle moves to negative when I turn on the key or headlights, but the needle does not move to the positive when it should be registering a charge. So my question is this - Can I disconnect "all" the wires from the generator and start the car to confirm that it is putting out voltage, or will this fry the generator? I'm guessing that I should be able to start the car and see the voltage rise; then shut off the car quickly if the voltage creeps up to high. My suspicion is that the generator will show no voltage when I run the engine, but I'm not sure. Oh, I forgot to mention that after my rebuild of the generator, I questioned if my problem was the generator or the voltage regulator, so I took it to a motor repair place and they hooked it up in the back room and said it was in great condition. However, I failed to ask them how many volts it was putting out - if any. Maybe they just did a motor test and that was how they tested - I'm not sure. I'm hesitant to take it back because I hate to bother them when I feel I should be able to diagnose something as simple as this myself. I also have the" Motor's Auto Repair Manual" and it is a wealth of knowledge in it, but it doesn't explain how to test the voltage output of the generator alone. It only explains how to do the "motor" test to see it it works. It also goes into ton's of information on the voltage settings for the Voltage Regulator, but that would assume it has ample voltage being generated. Any advice on how to confirm if the generator is putting out sufficient voltage would be great! Thanks!

I know this thread is dated, but I had the same problem of a valve stuck in the open position. The engine had been sitting for 15 years, so I'm lucky that was the only major problem. After opening the valve covers (which is super simple), I didn't notice the problem at first until i took a series of picture as I rotated the engine (by turning the fan blade). Then I noticed one of the valves was stuck and not closing. The attached picture shows it all. I was able to put a screwdriver in between the spring and hit it with a hammer to free it up. Now it runs so much smoother.

For what it's worth... I had the same problem backfiring just a couple months ago when getting my engine running after sitting for a long time (probably 5+ years). To get it running again, I first installed a new fuel tank and lines, new brake lines and front disc brakes, and a new exhaust system. Then I had a new electronic ignition that I had always wanted to install in the distributor, which I did. And finally it was time to get it started. It would almost turn over and it would back fire. I was able to get it running with starting fluid a few times, but it was really rough. I thought that I had timing issues or possibly the carburetor that was causing it to backfire. I then did a quick compression test and saw that cylinder 6 had no compression. I pulled off the valve cover and took pictures with my phone of the valves. Then I manually turned the engine over with the fan blade a little bit at a time, and I noticed one of the valves was left high-n-dry. I managed to break it free with a screw driver and a hammer. I figured I was going to have to pull the head or even worse take it to a machine shop anyway if I couldn't get it free. Pulling the valve cover and taking the pictures only took about 5 minutes to diagnose. After getting the valve free and running it for a few minutes, it runs great now. I am getting some smoke, so I'm wondering if the rings are a problem, but no backfire. Hope this helps.

Ok.... Maybe a dumb question, but if you are trying to determine if the valve guides are worn and if there is blow-by through the valve stems, couldn't you just pull off the valve covers and run the engine and watch each of the valve guides for leakage - especially the exhaust valves? The video at the beginning (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8G3MJGuKIQ8) which showed how to adjust the valves just made me think that it would be a perfect time to observe for any wear. Any thoughts on this? The reason that I ask, is I have a lot of smoke coming from my 218 which has been sitting for about 15 years. I have recently gotten it running again and had one valve that was stuck open. I know this because I opened the valve covers and I saw one valve stem in the open position (see image), but I was able to get it freed without removing the head, by putting the head of a flat head screwdriver in between the spring and banging it with a hammer (carefully not to bend it). I would have not notice it unless I rotated the engine manually to see that the valve was left high-and-dry as seen in the image - so keep that in mind if you are inspecting yours! Now I've had it running on a few different days for about 2 hours total, and the smoke has diminished some, but I still have more smoke than I would like. I plan to run some Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) though it as others have recommend, and do things such as a vacuum test, but I currently have the wiring a mess as I try and install a few fuse blocks and replace/upgrade most of the wiring. In other words I would test this idea, but I need a few weeks to get it running again. So besides my question as to if you could watch for leakage, I would also like to ask if there are any other tests that could be done from down in the valve area to see if there is leakage - such as spraying something on the valves as they operate that would be sucked in and and you could see the exhaust turn colors or something. I hope you see where I am going with this. Thanks for any additional ideas.

I have a 48 Plymouth and I'm interested in doing this. I see that there are several places to get these kits from. Some require proprietary calipers and pads,while others sell the brackets and you get the calipers and pads from an auto parts store. What do you guys think about Scarebird? https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=64

There should be two linkages that connect to the transmission only a couple inches apart from each other onto two levers that come out of the transmission. I tried to take a picture of it, but it came out lousy. I will try and take another picture.

Oh, I meant to mention that I hooked up the starter with jumper cables directly to the battery. The starter works smoothly and spins freely. Anyone know how the spring mechanism actually works in the starter to engage it with the flywheel? I just figure it is thrust outward when the spin of the motor is engaged and then a spring pulls it back in when the current stops flowing.

I recently replaced the starter motor brushes due to a short in one of the wires that caused it to be non-fixable. The main problem in this repair is that I did not pay attention to the orientation of the brushes to the armature when I disassembled the motor. So when I finally re-assembled the motor, I assembled it with the brushes in the wrong orientation. I found this out after putting the starter back in the motor and when I cranked it over, the starter motor spun in the opposite direction and it would not engage with the flywheel. After researching the problem I thought that the problem might be the brush orientation off by 180 degrees. I took the motor apart again and re-oriented the brushes at 180 degrees, but when I tested it the motor still spun in the wrong direction. I also suspected that the motor may not be engaging with the teeth on the flywheel due to the spring mechanism not engaging the starters teeth correctly. This was not the problem. SOLUTION: I rotated the brushes only 90 degrees with respect to the armature and now the motor spins in the correct direction. The key difference is that the starter motor that I have has four (4) brushes. If you are having the same problem I think the 4 brush motors will spin reversed direction every 90 degrees. Two (2) brush motors may OR may NOT change the rotation of the motor. Do your research before taking it apart multiple times and frustrating yourself.

You are correct. The motor should spin. I just connected jumper cables from my battery directly to the starter. Since it is positive ground, the red cable should connect to the body of the starter motor, and then the last connection was to TAP the negative wire to the terminal that sticks out of the side that the battery cable connects to. The motor should spin freely since there is no load.