Al Peterson

Obviously it can be done but it could also be a bit dangerous, my dad broke his arm trying to use a hand crank to start a car.

Exactly, JB! Jaime, The original 6 Volt headlamp is an 6006 or a Halogen bulb is H6006. That is almost always available through a local parts store or where ever you chose to shop. If you've changed over to a 12v system, those are even easier to find at your local parts supplier. Philips also makes quality DOT approved LED sealed headlamps and is a reputable brand that is readily available at a lot of retailers(if you have a 12v system, LED's won't work for 6v). Good luck!

I'll be the Debbie Downer... I assume you have 12V system? If so, there aren't many DOT approved headlamps out there. I know it sounds like a small detail but it is a rather big deal, besides the "legality" of it, performance from a non-DOT approved lamp varies wildly. I sell all kinds of headlamps and have nothing to gain or lose by saying this, but I've had several customers buy "off-road only" LED headlights and complain about how bad they are. One customer in particular said he installed his and they "looked great in the garage but once I got on the highway, I had to have my highbeams on just to make it home". Caveat Emptor....buyer beware. Good luck!

Ed, Sorry for the delay in responding, a bit crazy around here lately. No, the metal brackets are in excellent shape. It's the new motor mounts. They are roughly 1/4 taller and the rubber portion that slides in the rubber is a larger diameter than the OE. I double checked the application from where I bought it and they claim the part number fits from 1939 ish to 1950's. I ended up only replacing the bottoms and left the tops for another day. Al

Any tips or tricks for installing upper motor mounts on a 1947 WC? I ordered and received new ones(complete sets) and they are considerably bigger than the old ones. I understand there may be some compression from weight but wow. The lower units go right in but the uppers are proving to be a bear. Any help is greatly appreciated. Al

Mine does the same thing, will be interested to hear a response. Although I think someone posted in another topic they use form-a-gasket?

Yes.

Bingo! thank you very much!

Good catch, I will check that! I have new connectors and that is a definite possibility I hadn’t thought about! now I can’t sleep on that, back to the garage I go!

A quick question, I have a ‘47 WC and I am running into an electrical problem. At some point someone added a second taillight. Hang with me here...Whomever did it, took the OE unit and put it on the passenger side and put the new one on the drivers side. I have replaced the entire wiring harness. One lamp was always dimmer than the other side, despite new bulbs and wiring. The original lamp lens is a dark blood red and the repop much lighter. So I bought another repop to match. The new unit takes an 1154 6volt bulb. The original and repop took an 1158. Is it possible this would cause the brake lights not to work together? thanks in advance.

Does anyone know if Dodge balances their driveshafts? I am doing my ujoints and rear differential seal. I decided to clean it up and came across this interesting mark. My first thought was POR15 but I certainly didn’t put it there. Then I thought perhaps it was where a weight was? There are no weights anywhere on the shaft and the vehicle is original. Thoughts? Edit: 1947 WC

Can anyone help with a picture of the bottom of the door on their WC(or other Dodge truck from that era)? I am wondering how that is supposed to mount because it don't look like the seal I got would be the proper size. Thanks in advance. Al

Merle, Thanks for the pro-tip! I have built project cars before but not on something this old and I've thoroughly enjoyed the learning curve. Al

Thanks for the response, this was a case of too much information(on my part). It was an exceedingly easy task and everything worked out perfectly. As for the clutch, I am capable and have all the tools. I just didn't know if it was an easy job. I have a friend with a '50 Chev truck and it looks simple but is a pain in the rear. So I thought I'd ask before I started the project. Thanks again for the information. Al

I just finished making a complete wiring harness for my 1947 WC, it is all original. I also bought and installed a new voltage regulator. I have not hooked it up as of yet because I also put in a new battery box and battery cables. My question is, how do I polarize my regulator? I want to make sure because I don't want to ruin a perfectly good regulator(expensive). Secondly, how difficult is it to put in a new clutch on the 218? Thank you in advance, love this forum! Al