PT Moe

Is the mechanical switch activated as you push the pedal and the pedal shaft moves away from the arm on the switch? Seems to make more sense that the other way around. My cab is still at the painters shop so I'll have to figure it all out when I get it back on the frame. Cab in primer IMG_9420.heicIMG_9420.heic

Thanks for the replies. Good to know the cap in the center of the prop valve will not work. I could do the inline hydraulic switch but I think I'll see about configuring the mechanical switch before I cut back into my lines.

Still working on my '41 Plymouth truck. Only been about 50 years, so I'm getting there. I did the front disc brake conversion with the upgraded duel master cylinder from DCM (Toyota?) and the PV 2 proportioning valve that I see some people on here have used. I was wondering what people have done for the brake light switch. Either inline hydraulic or will the single wire on top of the prop valve work. I do have the cap with the wire that's not shown in the picture. I did talk to DCM and he said the plug on the side of the MC will not work. he also said the front port on the MC should go to the rear brakes. Wondering if it matters with a Prop valve in the line up. Thanks for any insight. Jeff

Wow! That is some load in the old Dodge out on the ice. Once that real cold weather hit us all the lakes froze up nice and smooth and solid. What lake are you on? Big section of Sebago was still open as of last week. Thanks for sharing, great pictures.

My '41 Ply (116"WB) pickup is about 15ft-6in long without a back bumper.

No idea on the wiper motor itself, I haven't gotten that far yet. On my '41 Plymouth truck on the back side of the carburetor is a flared fitting with a broken off metal tube about 3/16 coming out of it. I kind of assumed that's vacuum for my wipers when I get to that.

I think they are back possibly under new management. Did them on my '41 pickup but still working on the plumbing.

$40.00 isn't bad to ship 6 1/2 ft bed strips. I had DCM ship a bumper and some other stuff to Maine and it wasn't too bad. My truck is a '41 Plymouth with wood crossmembers. My strips where too far gone to save but they had countersunk holes for screws into the wood and square holes for the bolts in-between with a washer on the underside of the wood. I think I got my strips from Vic's and a stainless bolt kit from DCM.

I see Kermit in his Studebaker.

Bob, Thank you so much. That is great help. Really appreciate your taking the time to post the pictures.

PT125 fuel line.PDFPT125 fuel line.PDF1941 Ply PT125. Got my rebuilt flathead back in the frame and am now trying to figure out my gas line routing. Looking at pictures I took back in the late '70's when I took the truck apart I think I got it somewhat figured out but would appreciate any verification. Looks like it comes out of the tank and goes through a riveted clip under the frame just behind the battery, Up along the outside of the frame through another riveted clip and up over the front shock mount to the front of the frame crossmember that supports the motor mount and turns back on the passenger side to a flex line at the fuel pump. Does not look like much room at the bottom of frame crossmember with the harmonic balancer and the radiator support that bolts there. Also, the line was spliced part way with copper so it may not have been routed as original. Running 5/16 NiCopp line. Thanks for any help. Jeff

Never deleted the link for Vic's and I happen to click on it today. Was surprised to see they will be reopening soon under new ownership. Lot's of their stock is back online.

I'm glad I got mine last year, but that is good news.

Yes I see a lot of places sell them online. They do show them as Disc/Drum or Disc/Disc so I would think the Disc/Drum would be set to go. Ebay or Amazon seem to be the best prices. Do you recall where you got yours with the bracket? Thanks, Jeff

Trying to get all the brake stuff for my '41 Ply figured out. I have the Scarebird front disc kit all mounted and am pretty happy with how that went together. I went through all the threads here on the subject and gained a lot of knowledge and thank everyone that shared info on this. I have gained an understanding of the concept of the 2psi residual valve for the front and the 10 psi on the rear, the combination valve and the adjustable proportioning valve. I'm thinking of using this dual MC from DCM. https://dcmclassics.com/brake-parts/1438-br-780-master-cylinder.html Looks to me like the Toyota one people here have used. Still trying to figure out all the fittings and stuff but I'll take that one step at a time. I think this photo posted by lostviking is a helpful starting point for me to go by. Also, I found this writeup and diagram which helps me to understand how it all goes together. Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated. I'm a retired carpenter so this stuff is all new to me. http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/brake-system.html Thanks to lostvikings for this photo.