HanksB3B

Gary says that they are made by the original mfg. The master cylinder I think was $129 Napa wanted $179 the wheel cylinders are top quality $45 fronts (x2) 24.50 (x4) for UR,LR,UL,LL. I was pleased and they are working perfectly. The quote to rebuild my old ones was more than brand new. Can't beat that! Hank

Except for the backing plates, (which are powder coated and look better than new) my brake components and lines are all new. Somehow it is more important to be able to stop than go. It's not that they didn't recommend it but what they couldn't tell me how to go from Dot 3 to Dot 5 silicone or if it is even possible without disassembly or purging the entire system somehow I think it would just be a matter of pushing through till there was just purple coming out. But I don't know so I'm not suggesting that. Hank

Hank How easy a project was swapping to the T-bird differential? Hnak

I'm good with the GTLMA Dot 3 Dot 4 (wish they would make up their minds what to call it) Some time back I was having brake lock up problems after I totally rebuilt the MC and slave cylinders. There was some contamination involved where shoes got a splash of fluid. Mechanics had all kinds of recommendations. Short of having the Miller Brake Tool I was able to do the best I could without it after understanding the heel and toe adjustments. The grabbing was one of those problems that just seemed to go away by itself. Still would like to find one of those tools at an affordable price though. Thanks for your help, Hank

I do drive my truck often every day if I have the chance. What would be invovled to switch from GTLMA to Silicone. I might try to get some info from Castrol's web site. Remember all the commotion when synthethic oil arrived on the scene people said you couldn't switch? Just how incompatible is Dot 3 synthetic and Dot 5 silicone? Will try to find out mfg's specs on this. Castrol said they do not make a Dot 5 (correct me if you know differently) They also don't recommend switching from synthetic GTLMA to Silicone. Thanks, Hank

So a 3.73 is what I want. Is this from a truck or passenger car what year or model should I be looking for? Are they identical for Dodge Plymoth Chrysler and Desoto? A model number of the autos would help? Are there numbers I can look for on the differential housing as well? Thanks, Hank

I'd like to swap-out my pumpkin from my stock 411 rear and install (is it a "taller" ratio?) a rear end that will give me a higher top speed. I'm sure a few of you know what was available as far as ratios are concerned and from what year and model cars they were available on. What are my options? Any documentation or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Hank

will bookmark and check it out presently. Hank

Oldmopar, so this is my understanding. I'm using Synthetic Dot 3 and not Synthetic Purple Dot 5. What is the difference between Dot 3 and Dot 5 synthetic. Do either of them dissolve paint? If there is a big advantage to going with Dot 5? Since they are both synthetic, would it be possible to simply add Dot 5 to the system and bleed till only purple was coming out? Thanks, Hank

I never gave it much thought but as far as I know my original fuel pump is turning 100,000 miles and soon. I do have a spare and from what you guys are finding with the over the counter ones I'd better hang onto my core and find a rebuild kit. Has anyone rebuilt their own, or is there a Tech Thread on this. Thanks, Hank

It is called "asphalt loom" the headlights buckets used it as original, I also liked the look of it for my tailights also. It's used on Harley Davidsons and in my opinion looks like the right material as it was used during the 50's. I also used it as my headlight crossover. If you can get a 3" sample of each size that would help plan just how many wires will fit in a given diameter. Hank http://www.homeprofasteners.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=56&option=com_phpshop&Itemid=6

what I did last time around. They aren't leaking but I'm not sure I didn't butter both sides of the bread. We'll find out, Hank

Is what I'm using. Not sure why I chose it (synthetic?), but everything is working well. New lines, MC and WC's all around. So far so good. Hank

Do yo have to re-do the oil pan gasket? That can be fun! Glad your motor's o.k. Hank

I looked around the swap meet and couldn't find but one wrong size tappet wrench. So I ordered the Sears Set. Order Total: $35.47 (including shipping and tax) I would have liked to pick it up at the store but that was not an option. I guess when I think about it my truck's to the point that the only monkey working on it should be me. With all the support we have at P15-D24 (and the video) the tool set will pay for itself the first time I adjust the valves. This morning I drove down to the beach. The waves were huge. Ever since I installed the new non-supression wires the truck has been starting cold on the first shot and thereafter. I realized I could adjust the throttle way down (even less than I wanted it to idle at) I couldn't hear the engine above the crashing waves. Bet it'll be even quieter once the valves are adjusted. Kind of curious what I'll find. Anyone know a good source for valve cover gaskets. I had hoped to use an old cork pair I've had forever, but discovered they are dried and broken. Is anyone of the opinion that cork is/was the Best material? (are they still available) Should I use any gasket cement for this application? Thanks, Hank

on their way to: "Rodney King School for Boys" Can't say much else, Hank

But I just couldn't place it. Definately a Ford for sure. Wonder why the Dodge hubcaps...well then John Force does a lot of things I don't understand. This was his elementary school bus and some of those idiot shows like "Pimp my Ride" or the other employee abuse car craft shows restored it for John. Hank

It shouldn't cost more than $250. Are there a lot of shops where you live? Usually the most down and dirty place is the shop you want. The condition of the tank and the cast iron return at the bottom of the radiator are critical. They have to be in good shape from the start. My guy told me he could't get the cast iron part, so I had to unhappily live with that. Mines just o.k. In reality it's one of the most important things to have done correctly. Don't compromise! Good Luck, Hank

Anytime, Hank

That's really great. Bookmarked! Thanks, Hank

On the restored truck you mean? I was thinking that too. It probably is a GMC, but it does have Dodge Hubcaps ? Huh.. How's the tailgate coming? Hank

Reg, I thought Yellow is your thing. Brown, I Don't think so.. I didn't need to be reminded about how my Elementry School Boys Room Stank, but I do have to laugh about kids chain reaction puking in the halls. Why don't you just buy my Dodge Bus after I pick it up over at John Force's house? Hank

What got started here...I was thinking more on the lines of the attached, with maybe a P15-D24 logo on it. Can't stop laughing today..You guys are Bad! Hank

I didn't expect that from you. Ha ha ha! Hank

I told myself "It's not rocket science". Then I invited my friend Al who is a Huges Aircraft rocket scientist to come over and help me. No all kidding aside its really pretty easy. Just assign a number and write it on a spare copy of the wiring diagram from our truck manual (I suggest making a 11x17 enlarged copy). Next I used masking tape and numbered all the wires at each end to match the chart. I made a shopping list of color, guage, and length and tried to buy just enough. I made each wire around 12" longer than the post WW-II factory copper bean counter specified. Although I would have liked to go with cloth wire I'm plastic with crimps made with a ratchet type crimping tool I got from Harbor Freight for $13 bucks. Maybe some day I will re-do the harness now that I know where things go and how they want to split off. If you've got 700 bucks I'm sure soldered and cloth wire would be sweet. I just had too much going on to take all that time now. Hank