dbcooper292

Thanks, and good luck with your trucks! Thanks for all the help during the project

The truth is I’ve got my truck all apart and am not getting it back together. I will sell it all to one buyer who takes everything for $500. If someone really wants part instead, I will sell the engine and trans for $500, the wheels and tires for $400, and the body for $500. Here’s what I’ve got: It’s a 49 B-1-D 9 foot dually, I have no bed whatsoever, otherwise it’s all there in major aspects but it’s apart. The frame has wheels on it and the engine and trans mounted. The engine runs. I had a complete rebuild done including a bore and new pistons. The wires are new, the carb is rebuilt, the starter is rebuilt, you get the picture. It warms up to 160 degrees and stays right there, idles, doesn’t smoke, starts right up. It’s showing about 65 oil psi on a new set of SW gauges. I took the trans apart cleaned everything thoroughly and replaced the front ‘main’ bearing on the trans. The cone/tube thingy the clutch slides on needed a repair, it was welded and lathed down. The throwout bearing is new. To me, the trans seems great now but I’ve not driven it. I spent 3K dollars on the motor by the time I was done, it’s thoroughly new. The wheels are new black 6 lugs from Stockton with new or great used tires on each. There are six wheels but one of the frustrations I had was these wheels won’t sit all the way against the drums, the bead valley makes too small a circle inside the wheel. Stockton said they’d fit but by the time I tried them it was years later and the tires were mounted and you get the picture. They fit on front and for the outside duals, but not the inside duals. The cab is good, everything’s been stripped out of it and it has minor rust, it’s a good cab. It’s from a ’50 and it has corner windows. They’re out but I have them, they’re not cracked. I have two sets of doors. I have fenders, hood, front grille, inner fenders. The frame is fairly good but has a couple kind of half arsed welded repairs in places. I haven’t been through the steering or brakes the pieces are there but that’s all I know. I can answer any other questions you have and I’m in northern Connecticut. I’m not proud to be bailing out on this project, but I’m too old to pretend when something’s not happening, and I’ve been parking outside for years while this doesn’t move forward. Maybe my loss can be someone’s gain, that would make me happy because this list has been good to me. Thanks, Mark

Well I'm either more creative or terribly more half-arsed than the rest of you, because I got them off and here's how - I turned my front wheel around, bolted it back on, and whacked the tire with a maul from the inside, working my way around. Off came the drum! Now the question is why does it drag so badly.... everything looks ok in there and I've moved all adjustment to the loosest place and you still have to really shove the drum over the shoes to get it on. It seems like the shoes would have to wear quite a bit before it clears comfortably. All the parts look right, the next step is to try to determine whether the cylinder works and retracts all the way I guess. Thoughts? Maybe my drum is the wrong one on that side, but it fits into the backing plate and isn't very thick, how far wrong could it be? DB

It's a 49 B 1 D and i'm looking at the fronts now, though I'll be getting into the rears as well, thanks.

I looked over the old posts on this but I'm maybe missing the basics. My brakes are dragging and the truck doesn't seem to have the sort of adjusters I'jm used to on more 'modern' drums, I did find what seemed to be cam bolts and maybe they make a difference but not enough. So I want to remove the drums but can't because....the brakes are dragging. Or is that the reason? I'm not too familiar with the whole 'brake drum and hub are all one thing' type of system on these trucks, can someone give me the basic idea of removing these things, especially if the shoes seem to be pressing them? (lines are totally disconnected) Thanks, db

Cab in foreground, I'm stripping it for blasting right now. 'truck' in background motor and trans in frame, it runs, 1 U-joint from linking up the whole drive train. Next step is to 'mock it up' with a full set of body panels to pick the best set from what I've got and make sure everything fits, make repairs to the panels, then take them back off and send them for blasting.

Put the Tranny in yesterday, well I'm sure I don't have to tell anyone on this list it's quite a trick to put something together you disassembled more than a year ago! But the good news is you learn how it REALLY works because understanding the pieces is your only hope when memory can't help you. anyway, a great day and the shifter snicks in and out of each gear about as nicely as in my Porsche with the aftermarket short shift kit. Endless thanks that my brain was working and I thought to use the input shaft as a clutch alignment tool before assembling the tranny too! The only wrinkle (so far) is that when I spun the drive flange/ebrake drum thingy it worked perfectly smoothly one way and caught on something the other way. I noticed the speedo drive tail hopping when this happened and took it out, put the housing nut back in with no drive behind it and the trans is smooth as silk in either direction. Is this something that will clear up with a cable screwed on the drive, or did I do something wrong? Thanks, DB

Meaning you think I could snap it into a new bearing that hasn't got a shield? (of course I'm not talking about the snap ring around the outside, but the flat 'washer-like' plate that goes between the inner and outer races. thanks.

Looking to replace the front bearing in my 49 three speed trans, it would be a pretty simple job except it has a shield on one side which keeps too much oil from going through it. Roberts says they can't get it anymore, anyone got thoughts? DB

I mean I went with my wife, not yours. Don't want to get anyone in trouble. DB

Too bad about your truck but Paris with your wife is great, we went in June. DB

Unfortunately the money isn't worth what it was at the time...

Well, who knows if it's original, right? But it seems to match all the pictures in the manual for that model, which lists a three speed.

I checked and the bearing has no shield. You know, I gotta say, maybe it's just bad luck, and I haven't been in this old Dodge game long, but that makes 100% of the things I've ordered from Roberts the wrong part. Christmas.

yes there's a drain hole like that. I'm making my own gasket so I trimmed out a piece in it for that drain. Thanks everyone, good tip about the bearing, i have a new one from roberts I'll check it for the shield. DB

49 B-1-D three speed. I'm putting the trans together under the assumption there's no seal in the front, that the long nose cone the throwout bearing rides on is just long (and corrugated) enough that whatever oil works its way through the bearing just never makes it to the front and drips out all the hell over the clutch? I suggest this b/c there was no seal in mine and the only place I can imagine fitting one is over a splined area of the input shaft, (hmm, splined seal? no...) but then I'm looking at it and it's making feel like I might be an idiot to think there's no front seal? DB

I'm cleaning up my drivetrain bits for re-assembly (why hasn't the machine shop answered the phone for two weeks, how come it's locked when I go there?) and have a question about the clutch. When I cleaned up the surface of the pressure plate and vacuumed the chewed acorn shells out of it, I got to considering the pins that the finger-levers pivot on when they get pressed by the throwout bearing etc. Should they be lubricated at all under the general theory pivot-stuff should be lubricated or should they be left dry under the general theory you don't want slippery liquids around the clutch disc? Thanks, DB

That might have been me that posted about the stockton wheels. They will tell you their 16 in six lug will fit but it won't on the inside, will on the outside. On the front, it depends on your drum, it's close. Really a 16 in tire on truck with drums at least 15 in across is a stretch for any sort of tubeless setup. DB

wow that is amazing information thanks, I bought one. Very much appreciated! DB

Hi all - I'm compuzzled once again! 49 B 1 D three speed, 2wd. I ordered a new rear trans bearing and rear seal, which actually resides in a short tailshaft case containing the speedo drive and parking brake mount. The bearing looks right, but the seal is too big in diameter on the outside (won't fit into seat in tailshaft). The inside of the seal seems correct. I took the old seal out and brought it to NAPA, where their information matched the specs on the big seal I received. I gave them the measurements of the old seal and they couldn't find anything to match. So, the seal which came out of my truck measures a little over 2 1/2 in on the outside (2.567) and a little over 1 1/2 inches on the inside (1.567 about). The seal I received in my order is about the same on the inside but 2.88 on the outside. The seal I received in my order is numbered CR 15761. Any thoughts about where I'm going wrong and how I can get the right seal? Thanks, DB

Hey I like that screwdriver/points hand timing! That's a neat trick. I'm all the time turning it over with the starter. Hunh! Never too old to learn. DB

Replied there thanks.

Hank thanks very much - I'd like to have it. I bought some stick welding rods that say they'll work on cast iron, I'm going to try it tomorrow, but I'd like to have the one you've got because it's not broken and patched together and that's always better. How can I send you some money for it and the address, etc.? Thanks again, Db

If you pull the trans would you want to part with the tube on the front the throwout bearing rides in and out on? (see my description under thread 'need trans part 49 B1D 3 speed). thanks! (not sure it's the same exact part) DB

I have a 49 B-1-D and the front piece of the transmission, which is held to the box with four bolts, holds the front bearing in and is basically a plate with a tube sticking forward toward the motor. The throwout bearing rides on this tube. Well that piece, the plate with the tube on it, has broken into two pieces, a plate and a tube. It seems to be iron more than steel and I'm not having much luck with a repair. Does anyone have a spare they're interested in selling, from a wrecked box or whatever. If you're not sure if you have the same one, I can measure some things for you. Thanks! DB