grey beard Posted July 1, 2008 Report Posted July 1, 2008 Anybody have any advice for a good way to get the two front fuel tank bolts out without removing the bed wood? Can't get to the nuts up there behind the crossmember with my big hands. Hate to use a torch in that sensitive kind of spot. Mebby a Sawzall . . . . . . Any suggestions from you who have been here? Thanks Quote
Aaron Posted July 1, 2008 Report Posted July 1, 2008 Well, if your tank is like mine, the nuts on top nearest the front of the truck should be welded onto the tank. But if yours is like mine the bolts were so rusted that the nuts broke loose and I somehow was able to wiggle myself up and get my hands up into those very tight places to get a wrench on the nuts. I would suggest getting a smaller guy to help! Quote
grey beard Posted July 4, 2008 Author Report Posted July 4, 2008 Finally got the tank out, after two days of hard work. What finally worked for me was a Sawzall on the bolt heads. What a job to get those two bolts out of there - drive shaft and battery all in the way. Now that it's out, discovered it has about a shovelful of debri, sand and rust inside. Got one chunk out four inches long and half the size of the filler neck. It'll be fun to get clean. Anybody have a better idea than tying the tank to a cement mixer after it has been flushed and had a handful of stones or nuts and bolts added for a polishing agent? I'm open to any suggestions that will aid in getting the tank clean inside. Thanks:) Quote
MBF Posted July 4, 2008 Report Posted July 4, 2008 I used some small pcs of light chain, nuts and washers in mine and then sealed the inside w 2 different coats of sealer. As it turns out the tank wasn't leaking, the washer under the face of the drain plug was the culprit. That was a couple of years ago-and knock on wood-no problems since. I can't remember if I bought the sealant from Eastwood or another advertiser in Hemming (Hershfeld?). I'm happy. Mike Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted July 4, 2008 Report Posted July 4, 2008 The light chain mentioned might be alright but don't use heavy chain. One guy had his chain tie itself into a knot then it was a big headache getting the chain out again . Quote
grey beard Posted July 5, 2008 Author Report Posted July 5, 2008 I've got six shiny new 3/4-inch nuts in there, flopping around in the tank, which as we speak is lying in the back of my van and wrapped in plastic to keep the noise down. I'll let her ride in there until my paint job is all finished, and then flush it out with a pressure washer and maby seal it if it still looks like it needs more cleaning. Also dumped half a gallon of soap and half a gallon of water into the tank to help keep things in suspension till I next flush it. What I got out mostly was fine sandy gravelly grit. Don't know where it came from during all those years, but there was more than a shovel full of the suff in there - some in huge cakes I had to break up to get out. Also, the tank sender arm was completely rusted in two and the float was down there in the muck, as well - with the arm completely gone. There must have been something rewally nasty in old gasoline that promoted rust for this heavy wire arm to rust in half completely as this one did. Wonder if new gasolines will do the same, given enough time. Otherwise, tank and mounts all look to be good and solid. By the bye, our local radiator shop guy cleans old fuel tanks. Gets one hundred bucks a shot. What he does is strap them to the end of an old cement mixer and use smooth river pebbles to loosen up whatever evil is growing in there. He said some take as long as a week to get the inside shined up nice and clean. I'm trying to "Amish" my way to the same goal without paying someone a hundred clams to agitate the tank. I"ll let you all know how it turns out. Mebby I'll have to go to him with my tail between my legs and money in my hand . . . . . . Quote
MBF Posted July 5, 2008 Report Posted July 5, 2008 GB-Hopefully the nuts/sloshing will do the job for you. Sounds like someone got a load of bad gas or maybe some kids were playing gas station with a garden hose. I remember doing that with a lawnmower when I was a kid-my Dad laughs about it now, but it wasn't very funny as I remember it at the time! The rheostat on my sending unit was shot, but I wanted to get the tank back in to get rid of the outboard tanks I had been using. If you find out what the ohm range is on the original please let me know. I think JC Whitney sells generic units with different ohm ranges. Mike Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 5, 2008 Report Posted July 5, 2008 Anybody have a better idea than tying the tank to a cement mixer after it has been flushed and had a handful of stones or nuts and bolts added for a polishing agent? I'm open to any suggestions that will aid in getting the tank clean inside. Thanks:) Dave; Build yourself one of these. Click on link below http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v65/DonCoatney/movie/?action=view¤t=GasTank.flv Quote
bkahler Posted July 5, 2008 Report Posted July 5, 2008 Dave;Build yourself one of these. Click on link below http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v65/DonCoatney/movie/?action=view¤t=GasTank.flv Ok, where do I find plans for one of those . Brad Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 5, 2008 Report Posted July 5, 2008 Ok, where do I find plans for one of those .Brad Contact forum member Billy Austin. Here is a link to his profile. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/member.php?u=118 Quote
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