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Posted

Seems the bearings are coming in two different shipments. The mains came today, the rod bearings are coming tomorrow.

I put the mains in and did the Plastigauge test. .0015 in on all 4, so that's pretty cool. Things are looking better.

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Posted

So, the stretching would cause the bolts to bottom out in the holes before proper torque was reached? How much stretch are we taking about, maybe 1/16"? I guess it would not affect the bolts that go into the water jacket, no bottoms in those holes. The others, in a pinch, could have the ends ground down a hair so they don't bottom out.

I agree, new bolts would be the best way to go, but I've had good luck so far with the originals.

Posted

Normspeed;

I dont believe the problem is the bolt hitting the bottom of the hole. The problem is bolt thread fatigue not allowing proper torque.

Like you I have re-used head bolts on several occasions including my current application. I have never had a problem but apparently others have.

When I was about 10-12 years old my neighbor had a furd flathead circle racer. I jumped in to help install a head on an engine. In those days new head bolts were not in the budget. Not knowing what I was doing I picked the first bolt on the end of one head and went after it with a 3/8" ratchet. I thought it best at my tender age to crank the bolt it until it would crank no more. I did so and smartly snapped the head off the bolt. There was not such a thing as a torque wrench in my neighbors garage.

Posted

Finally got the parts together, and the time. Learned Egge is much closer than Kanter, and had all the parts.

I did go with ARP fasteners after all. Like Pete said, good insurance.

Going to give the finned head one last chance to hold a gasket. Torqued everything to 62 lbs.

Not cleaned up as yet, but still looks good to me. I learned some more new stuff. This was my first time with bearing replacement. Slow and steady works well.

Car fired right up, had to cut and tap for the throttle pivot to fit on one extended length stud. After that it was on the road. Purring like a kitten, and no noises.

Thanks everyone for all your help, all came in handy.

DSCF2123.jpg

Posted

Glad you got it going JD. That is still one good looking motor. It deserves to be on the road, not in the garage.

Posted
(snip)

I did go with ARP fasteners after all. Like Pete said, good insurance.

Going to give the finned head one last chance to hold a gasket. Torqued everything to 62 lbs.

(snip)

I'm glad you got the studs and kept the aluminum head. I'm sure that as long as you retorque the head again after running it a while you should have no further head gasket issues.

Marty

Posted

Thanks Steve,, going back out again with it tonight... ;)

Marty, I re-torqued this morning after about 40 mile run last night. I was actually surprised the amount of turn I got (about 1/4 turn) today. I guess it was true the old bolts had no give.

Posted

Marty, I re-torqued this morning after about 40 mile run last night. I was actually surprised the amount of turn I got (about 1/4 turn) today. I guess it was true the old bolts had no give.

I doubt that the retorquing had anything to do with bolts versus studs; almost every gasket type except steel shim will compress some after going through a few heat cycles. Also, keep in mind that the amount of additional compression for a 1/4 turn of a fine thread nut is about the same as just over 1/8 turn of a coarse thread bolt.

Marty

Posted
will check once again tomorrow.

I checked mine many times, I was a bit paranoid that I was going to blow the gasket. It took quite a while for them to settle, after the forth or fifth time of re-torquing.

Pete

Posted

Glad to see you're back "on the road again".

Always seems to be room for a learning experience on these old cars.

I've learned lots of stuff on this forum that I never knew....since I'm

not much of a mechanic.:)

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