ignition switch

[Aaron]

Has anyone ever had a problem when turning the key to the on position and the ammeter does not move and no power is supplied to the coil? I can move and wiggle the key to the on, off position several times and once in awhile there will be power but usually not. (1948 B1B)

Is there some way to fix this, or do I need a new ignition switch?

Any ideas? Aaron

[Plymouthy Adams]

if you have power to the back of the switch from the amp meter and it is securely fastened and the outlet wires from the switch are also secure..then odds are the contacts are getting rather worn in your ignition switch..I think I would replace it as it would be tough to hit and bump an lose power in the middle of an intersection..

[MBF]

If you don't have any accessories on, and if the engine is parked in a position where the ignition points are open you probably won't see any movement of the needle. I'm pretty sure in this situation that the only thing that would be active is the fuel guage circuit. I bypassed my ampmeter when I converted my '52 to 12 volts and installed a voltmeter. Mike

[grey beard]

I agree with Mike. When you turn the switch on and the engine is parked in a position wihere the points are closed, you will see a discharge on the ampmeter. When the poihjts are open, nothing will happen. This does not mean current is not getting to the coil - only that the circuit is not being completed to ground. The draw from the fuel gauge will not be enough to make the ammeter wiggle. JMHO

[MBF]

Ditto GB-thanks for confirming my thoughts. He should see the fuel guage move if that circuit is working. Mike

[Aaron]

When I'm am turning the key, I know the points are closed and in order to get movement on the ampmeter, I have to turn the key on and off many times. The fuel gauge moves everytime the key is turned... Should I take the ignition switch off, take it apart and clean it?

[MBF]

Does it run the way it is? It almost sounds like you ought to look at your points to see if they show continuity when closed, or look for an open between the switch and the coil to eliminate the switch as being the problem. I just went to a locksmith to have a copy of a key made for my 52's ignition switch to keep it original. If I remember correctly there are 4 posts on it. If the post to the ignition or coil doesn't have battery voltage on a consistant basis when the key is on, you should be able to move the coil wire to the accessory post in order to save the switch. You should be able to do this as long as you don't have a motor (wiper or heater fan) on that circuit. I did end up taking my headlight and panel light switches apart to clean the contacts and lube them in order to save their originality. Guess getting 50+ yrs of service isn't what they were designed for! Mike

[MBF]

Was just skimming through fleabay and saw this. Current bid is $10

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Truck-IGNITION-SWITCH-W-KEY-1952-52-1951-51-1950_W0QQitemZ300212423730QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item300212423730

[Aaron]

Thanks for all the great information. I will probably first take the ignition switch apart and clean and lube the contacts and see how it goes from there.