Jump to content

Bolt problem on 34 crank


Lou Earle

Recommended Posts

Installing my 34 engine back in my 34 put on flywheel and was tightening the nuts on the bolts that hold the flywheel on and one stripped! Well you cannot get that bolt out without removing the pan crank etc. I re threaded the bolt with a dye and it took Now the original or a new not will go no there but feel a tad loose So I am wondering if anyone has a fix?

I had not even gotten 75 lbs with torque wrench when it stripped.

I was thinking about re threading it to a metric 10 and getting a metric nut? Also wondered if using a nylock nut might do the trick? Use nylock on all the bolts to get balance correct Also anyone ever used lock tite in this mess?

Lou

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lou;

Not sure about your 34 engine but on the later engines the bolt holes on the end of the crankshaft are not symmetrical. The fly wheel will only go on one way. If you are "off" there is one bolt that will not go in and if it does it will most likely cross thread. Is that what started your problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Talked again to the old master engine builder. He went back in his mental inventory of how to fix things to continental flathead engines. Told me to cut the head off stripped bolt and pull it out of flange then get a grade 8 bolt exact size and a thin nut . Then install the flywheel using the 3 good bolts and snug them down .Then inset bolt from front thru flywheel and flange and PUT THE THIN NUT ON THE FLANGE SIDE!!! About as simple as it gets. Duhhh!

He said he had done that on many continental engines and it works fine- just gonna be tedious getting the nut threaded on. We will see tomorrow.He thinks this is a better cure than using a castle nut and carter pin as we had first discussed

Lou

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lou;

Grade 8 hardware is a must in this application. I learned the hard way that the correct way to install these bolts is the bolt head goes on the clutch side and the nut and lock washer goes on the engine side as pictured below. Also the grade 8 bolts should have a shoulder as pictured below to insure there is no room for slop or movement. I had a difficult time locating the correct grade 8 bolts. I finally got some from my friend Don Coatney who is in the industrial hardware business. I still had to cut the bolts to length but they do work well. I will send you 5 of these bolts/lock washers/nuts if you need them.

33333.jpg

DCbolts2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use