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Damn! Just damn!


Guest rockabillybassman

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Guest rockabillybassman

The new rings in my P26 dont seems to be bedding in. I've given it a sustained blast of around 2000 revs for about 15 minutes, but it's still chuffing a bit of smoke. Aaaarrgghh!!!!! :mad:

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The new rings in my P26 dont seems to be bedding in. I've given it a sustained blast of around 2000 revs for about 15 minutes, but it's still chuffing a bit of smoke. Aaaarrgghh!!!!! :mad:

Rock-

I drove my car gingerly for about 10-20 miles and my rings had not seated. I decided I didn't have anything to lose by using the "drive it like to stole it" method. I did a bunch of 3/4 throttle starts followed by long deceleration with engine compression braking, and just like that, it quit smoking...

Pete

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With the fuel shut off, the engine acts as a large air compressor. the act of squeezing the air on the compression strokes acts as a brake. That is why when you park a standard car and leave it in gear, it is hard to push it, and when you let off on the gas the car slows down, instead of continuing on.

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Guest Nelsons Ply

Driving like Pete mentioned is good to help keep the build up blown out.

Have done it that way for years.

Never had a problem with rings not seating.

Keep the soot blown out guys and theses old goodies will keep going.

Not talking about hot roding.Just push them now and then.

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Did you use chrome rings? If you did, its very hard to get them to seat. I've had some that I could never get to seat. I finally had to install 'insta seal' rings. That's why I always use cast iron rings now. I never have trouble with them.

I've used the Bon Ami trick several times. It works but don't over do it. Another trick an old timer taught me, to clean out the compression chamber, is to run a cup or so of water down the carb(intake system) while reving the engine. I once had a customer's Chevy that had a terribly loud knock. I thought it was a broken piston. The old timer just laughed and poured some water down the carb. Poof! The knock was gone. This trick will keep your upper engine clean and stop pre-ignition knock caused by carbon. It sure is a lot less smokey than pouring Bardhal down the carb and keeps the neighbors from complaining.

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Well strictly Bon Ami is french for good friend. In this context they are refering to the Cleansing Powder. Bon Ami is a household cleaning product but different from Comet or the like in that it contains no detergent, chlorine. It is made from feldspar and has a hardness rating of 6. It is similar to a product called Bartender's Friend, a product used for cleaning and polishing glass wear used at bars. The abrasive introduced by this treatment helps to seat the rings through added friction, Bon Ami can also be used for cleaning chrome, stainless steel, road grim off windshields, white walls, and can also be used as a rubbing compound while wasihng your car to remove tar ,bugs and oxidized paint. Good stuff, don't they sell it down under??? Perhaps an opportunity for a little export gig in my retirement.......

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check the link for more info.

http://www.bonami.com/products/

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Wow, I haven't heard of the Bon Ami trick for over 20 years! I don't reccomend it on a new engine. It was used to re-seat the rings on older motors. I soak my pistons/rings in diesel fuel (used to use ATF but this works better) prior to installation. They usually seat right away because diesel is just a super-thin oil and it cuts through the motor oil during start-up.

Have you tried washing down the cylinders with diesel? All it takes is about a tsp in each plug hole. Try to have all of the pistons below TDC and use a squirt can to direct it into the cylinder and away from the valves. If it puddles in the intake you'll have a helluva time starting it. Let it sit overnight. Cast rings require patience for break-in. It could be over a thousand miles until they're totally seated.

There are alot of ways to perform a 'full load' break-in, but it goes something like this:

- Get the car running and set so it's not running lean or pinging.

- From a rolling start, drive it full-throttle for about 10 seconds (NOT like drag racing, more like aggressively passing someone on the highway), shifting as necessary

- Slow it down, make sure everything is still Scottish, repeat this 10 times and re-torque the head when you're done. Change the oil and you should be good to go as long as the machine work was done right.

- If it's still puffing blue upon startup or while running you've got other problems.

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