temecularevev Posted February 8 Report Posted February 8 As relayed in my previous posts, I think I have done damage to the clutch disk with removal and replacement of the trans. After getting the trans back in and connecting all the other parts The clutch won't disengage. Other treads suggested I probably bent the clutch disk by forcing the trans back in. Anyway, I appears I must replace the clutch disk. So how do I do that without pulling the engine? I seems the cross member (that the rear mounts are connected to) cannot be removed. It's riveted and welded in place. How do I remove the Bell Housing with the motor still in and the cross member seemingly blocking the housing from coming back. The manual doesn't give a clue. And I've searched all over this forum with out much success. Lots of good pointers of what I did wrong and helpful hints for various parts of the project. But no direct advice on how to remove the bell housing so I can replace the clutch disk. Thanks so much, Craig Quote
Solution Happy 46R Posted February 8 Solution Report Posted February 8 It is hard to tell from your photo but on my Dodge the clutch inspection cover can be removed with the engine and bell housing connected and in place. (Inspection cover is rounded on the bottom and about 6" wide/ I think there are 4 bolts holding it in place)This will expose the ring gear / flywheel which can be rotated by hand once the spark plugs are removed to reduce compression in the engine. Rotating the ring gear allows you to access the bolts holding the clutch pressure plate in place and this allows it and the disc to be lowered out of the bell housing. Putting it back requires an alignment tool to set the splines in place to allow the transmission to slide back into place. The suburban configuration may be different but this is what has worked on the three vehicles I have owned. The clutch assembly does have considerable weight to it when you are laying on your back under the car so be careful. Jope this helps. 1 Quote
Eneto-55 Posted February 8 Report Posted February 8 (edited) As Happy 46R suggests from his experience on his Dodge, the clutch cover (pan) can be removed with the engine in place, to service the clutch. It is the same on the Plymouth. (In fact, I have not yet installed the clutch cover, having left it off to be able to "easily" rotate the crank with a large screw driver from under the car.) If you (or a friend) has an old unusable transmission, you can remove the shaft to be used as what we called "a stabbing shaft", to align the clutch disk before installing the transmission. If it easily slips out of place when installing the transmission, the clutch pressure plate may be weak, and in need of being rebuilt. It would be a good idea to get it tested while it's out anyway. You can guess as to how I know this....) Edited February 10 by Eneto-55 clarification Quote
temecularevev Posted February 9 Author Report Posted February 9 Thanks for the suggestions. I will get after it this week. Quote
Happy 46R Posted February 9 Report Posted February 9 Make sure you update us as to how things go for you. Not being a mechanic or having lots of experience I often hesitate to post suggestions or opinions. I have recently done exactly what you are proposing and it went well following the outline. I hope suburbans are no different in the set up and your project goes well. Dave Quote
temecularevev Posted Tuesday at 07:06 PM Author Report Posted Tuesday at 07:06 PM Yes, I got it off. A little struggle as part of housing flange was trapped under the rear engine/bell housing mounts. Thanks for the advice. Quote
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