Jump to content

Cleaning up the free engine


Recommended Posts

Moved the free engine for the ‘51 farm truck out of the shop to scrape, steel brush, degrease and pressure wash it. I think I removed enough crap to fill a 2 lb coffee can. 
 

I also removed the 5 freeze plugs - wow. The crud totally covered the 2 lower plugs - rust, calcium carbonate, and Stop Leak.  On top of that, during the replacement of one of the lower plugs (photo attached) the mechanic knocked the old plug in the water jacket and left it. That one was a challenge to de-crud and get the ancient plug out. 
 

I dug a lot of crap out by hammering a screwdriver into it. Then I IMG_9366.jpeg.de4da8822b1499b982619908583145ef.jpegused the pressure washer. Took over an hour to finally get clear water with no chunks. 

Edited by Bobacuda
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you manage to get the distribution tube out? If you have the engine removed, etc., I would probably take it to a shop to have it properly hot soaked.

Also, was your block drain still working, with all that debris behind the plugs? My block drained just fine, but I never took the plugs out 🤔

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ivan - The engine had not been in a truck or in use for at least 3 years. It is from a truck that was in a boneyard that was bought just for the body.  The engine (longblock) was stored in a garage.

 

It only took about 1.5 hrs to get the water distribution tube out, and it wasn’t rotted.
 

I have other stuff to do before I will have time to pull the head and oil pan to assess the engine’s internals.   If it all looks rebuildable, then it’s machine shop time. 
 

BTW, looking for brass concave freeze plugs to replace the steel ones.  Everywhere I check says “not available.”  Anyone have a good source,?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Had time to pull the head today. Black soot, not greasy. Thinking it was run very rich before it went to the boneyard.
 

One stuck valve, freed it up with PB Blaster. Cyl walls could use a dingle-ball hone. Slight ridge at top of cyinder. Pistons are stamped “060” when read from the valve side. Need to pull oil pan and see what the lower end looks like. 
image.jpeg.f7068ee1afb569107d99eaf49cac3ca6.jpegimage.jpeg.1c963feb0d685a08fe5dc024d946470e.jpeg

Edited by Bobacuda
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use