1953 dodge B4-HAJ52 QUESTIONS

[Ray J.]

That is some nice work Rustyzman. And that is an eleven inch clutch. If only the tranny went in as easy.

 

MBF you are so right. You have to be careful when dealing with outside machine work.

I thank the Lord every time I make progress.

It is 31 degrees outside so no work today.

Ray J.

 

[Ray J.]

Transmission is in. I went toe to toe with it for 4 hours. It wore me to a nub. Pix are of the all thread pieces I used to guide it home.

Also finished priming the back of the cab where I replaced the rust.

Back to wiring today.

Ray J.

[MBF]

I don't know who thought of that design, but bolting the bell housing solidly to the frame of the larger trucks, and then requiring you to remove the flywheel to pull the engine with the bolts facing the crank to me leaves a bit to be desired.  If they didn't have that front flange on the bell it would have been so much easier to yank the flatty out and reinstall it.  I did a slant 6 in my pickup years ago and that was a piece of cake compared to this one!  Thanks for the photos!

[rustyzman]

Nice work!  A beast to say the least. 

We are all spoiled with these aluminum cased transmissions now.  The cast iron 4 speed and 5 speed truck transmissions are more than a minor challenge.

 

 

[Ray J.]

MBF and Rustyzman I agree. I did a lot of Chevy stuff in the 70's and that was so nice.

Clutch fork was a piece of cake to reinstall with a new throw out bearing.

Took me about 30 minutes or so to get the Dodge TOB to line up and go onto the tranny.

 

Finished wiring the dually bed. There are a lot of lights on it.

 

Ray J.

 

Edited December 13, 2024 by Ray J.
left out info

[Ray J.]

Does anyone have a brake/clutch pedal diagram with all parts shown?

My pictures I took so I could reassemble them was on an SD card which went belly up.

Thanks

Ray J.

[Ray J.]

I think I figured the brake/clutch pedal fitment out.

To all I wish you a great Christmas and an excellent new year.

Ray J.

[47 1.5 ton]

Don’t have pictures that can help but wanted to know more on your brake setup. Will the booster you’ve bought clear and bolt to bell housing using the factory peddle? 
 If your set up works, I may try something along that line so I can install an odrive box in the booster frame area in the future. 
 

 Merry Christmas! 

[JBNeal]

Excerpt from the factory parts manual for the brake and clutch pedal assembly (except COE and 4-ton):

 

The two pull-back springs shown (5-34-1 and 6-27-5) show as the same part # 563753, which gives with my collection having springs that look the same.

 

 

The formed sheet metal bracket with 4 holes looks very much like the rear fuel tank bracket.

 

 

additional information - B-series fuel tank installation

[Ray J.]

 

47 1.5 I installed the pedals today Probably the easiest thing I have done so far.

Plan on starting booster/master install next week.

Have a great Christmas and excellent new year.

Ray J.

Quote

 

 

[Ray J.]

Thanks for the pictures. I got it right. Glad you also sent pix of gas tank bracket. That one had me scratching my head. also painted the last piece of floor board that I made. That was a challenge.

I have a few parts that I will post in the wanted section in the future.

Wish the site had a free section. I will post them with buyer pays postage.

Have a great Christmas and excellent new year.

Ray J.

[Matt Wilson]

I read through your entire set of posts this morning.  I'm really enjoying seeing the progress, and there always something I can learn from reading about projects like this.  Can't wait to hear how your engine runs once you get out started and dialed in.

 

The brake and clutch pedals look as though they've been cut and welded back together, right at the elbow of each pedal.  Am I seeing that correctly?  If so, I hope the brake pedal welding was good.  You obviously don't want that to let go during a hard panic stop.  Not trying to alarm or criticize anyone in any way, but just bringing up my observation and a potential concern.

Edited December 28, 2024 by Matt Wilson

[Ray J.]

Hello Matt, They were cut and shortened by the owner who was 5' 5 tall. They held up for him 20 years. They will be revisited when I start my power brake install using stock drum brakes and a Ford booster and drum brake master cylinder.

I am in the process of researching Ford flange yokes to replace the one on the e-brake drum. This will give me u-joints that do not cost an arm and a leg and hopefully can be adapted to the drive shaft and keep the one stock at the diff.

Ray J.

[Matt Wilson]

3 hours ago, Ray J. said:

Hello Matt, They were cut and shortened by the owner who was 5' 5 tall. They held up for him 20 years. They will be revisited when I start my power brake install using stock drum brakes and a Ford booster and drum brake master cylinder.

I am in the process of researching Ford flange yokes to replace the one on the e-brake drum. This will give me u-joints that do not cost an arm and a leg and hopefully can be adapted to the drive shaft and keep the one stock at the diff.

Ray J.

Ok, that sounds great, and is reassuring.  It was just something I noticed, so I thought I'd mention it.

[Ray J.]

I think you and I are the only ones to notice. His wife told me about the pedal mods. Have a great new year.

Ray J.