Clutch Fork Installation

[Captain Neon]

In the process of repairing my clutch pedal linkage, I managed to disengage my clutch fork from the throw out bearing.  It was already too late, and quite frustrated with myself, to try and get it back together.  I'm lying on my back with arms and hands that seem more like they belong on a Sasquatch while trying to do this.  My comfort zone resides around oil and wheel changes, and battery and spark plug swaps.  What tips might someone experienced in this operation have to provide?  Pictures would be a real bonus!  Thank you.

[keithb7]

What year/model car are you working on?

[Captain Neon]

1946 Plymouth Deluxe 4DSD equipped with stock L6 and 3 spd. transmission.  I sort'a thought due to the nature of the forum that that was a given unless otherwise mentioned.  My mistake.

[keithb7]

The reason I asked was, on some years, the entire floor boards are removable. They unbolt offering very good unhindered access to the transmission and rear of the engine. This was extremely beneficial when I working on my 1938 clutch and tranny earlier this year.  I was able to get a good view and understanding of how it all went back together.

 

Basically you have 2 looped wires on the throwout bearing housing. You also have 2 flat spot n the housing. These machined flat spots line up with the 2 fingers of the fork. The looped wires are springs and flip down around the fork. They assist in holding everything together firmly.

 

Seen here, this bearing housing is assembled incorrectly. The housing needs to rotate 90 degrees counter clockwise so the fork ends aligns with the flat areas seen on the housing. Then the springs slide up and into the back side of the fork, recessed areas maintaining pressure.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 17, 2020 by keithb7

[Captain Neon]

I'd be very interested in seeing what it might look like through the port the clutch fork accesses the transmission.  Is it easier if the coil spring is disconnected?  I'm nervous about that as that is how the clutch rod came out of the pocket.  No idea how it was so easy to unintentionally disconnect, but then so very difficult to get back in and in the process disengage clutch fork from throw out bearing.

[keithb7]

You have a couple of options. You can back off the clutch adjustment threaded fastener (nut) that will shorter the clutch rod. This will give you some room to work. Or you could release the spring that maintains pressure on the clutch shift rod linkage. This will allow you some room to move the rod, to set it back in place, in the recessed ball socket of the shift fork. Once all reassembled you can re-adjust the clutch free-play to your liking by adjusting the threaded nut on the rod again. Tightening things back up. Just be sure to leave some free play to ensure the throwout bearing is fully disengaging from the pressure plate.

Edited July 17, 2020 by keithb7

[Captain Neon]

Are you saying that after all the effort of getting the clutch rod back into the fork pocket last night that you are recommending that I remove it to attempt to get the clutch fork to engage the throw out bearing?

[keithb7]

Does your clutch linkage look like image 1 or 2?  My suggestions were pertaining to image 1. 
 

 

 

 

Edited July 17, 2020 by keithb7

[Captain Neon]

More like #1; the one on top.

 

[keithb7]

I’m not 100% clear on where you are in the job process. Is your tranny removed? Throwout bearing became dislodged and you trying to line things up?  Or is the tranny fully assembled and installed, and the springs shown in the pic above  were moved out of their locking place, allowing end the shift fork be dislodged from it’s resting place?